What do you prefer on our M400 new model (21700 type)?

Beside sub-lumen, OP reflector or TIR would be apreciTed since this one won’t be a thrower…

If it’s a floody beam, 1-2lm shouldn’t hurt night-vision, as intensity is less, being more spread-out.

If it’s throwy, just the opposite.

And sublumen should then be more properly be called “firefly” instead of “moonlight”.

Me, I prefer moonlight over firefly, as I’m mostly looking for stuff on the floor or just walking in pitch-blackness, vs checking a map or watchface.

In my GTmicro, which runs Narsim and is about as throwy as you can get, I configged “moonlight” (shortcut press’n’hold from off) to 1, the lowest, and a fractional-second longer for “floor”. So I can choose between firefly and moonlight depending how long I press from off.

So maybe something like that… press’n’hold shortcut can take you to firefly first (eg, 1sec) and jump to moonlight after (eg, 1½sec).

Not disturbing others sleeping, keeping dark adaptation for eyes, reading maps, looking inside bag at night or other close-up tasks where even 1-2lm can be harsh and too bright. The <1lm modes on the M150 and H04 is one of their best features and something that makes them really stand out from many other competing lights at similar price.

Some situations require a better preservation of night vision.

Here’s a UI idea on managing it.
Activate moonlight.
Click, Click+HOLD — shifts moonlight to next intensity. 0.3 lm, 0.5 lm, 1 lm, and 2 lm are the levels. After 2lm, intensity resets back to 0.3 lm. Whatever intensity you had set your moonlight, it will be recalled anytime moonlight is activated. Another idea would be if you do click, click+hold and continue holding, for each 2 seconds it steps up to the next intensity until 2 lm, then resets after that.

Does that sound feasible?

Any news on M400 release date and / or final specs? :smiley:

The brand new XHP70.3 HI 4000k 90CRI would be sweet.

Any news?

M400 needs a recessed button switch that is easy to find in class complete darkness. The M300 switch is so small and very difficult to locate in the dark.

Warm to neutral white options with high CRI.

Basically anything in the 4000K-5000K range with a CRI over 90. Nothing noticeably green or pink.

The nicest light I’ve personally seen has come from the 4500K GT FC40 in the Acebeam E70, followed by the 5000K LH351Ds in the Sofirn SP36.

I still haven’t seen a 519A or B35AM in person, but I hear they’re excellent as well.

XHP70.3 HI 4000K or 5000K with an option of a beaded/ pebbled lens for those who are interested.

As others wrote, XHP70.3 HD or HI which has much less tint shift than the XHP70.2. 80 or 90 CRI would be nice.

From XHP35 to XHP70...

I 'd go with Nichia B35AR

Any update on M400?

This is what I’d go with:

  • XHP70.3 HI
  • 4000K-5000K (preferably 4500K)
  • min 80 CRI (ideally 90)
  • a deep orange peel reflector
  • more throw/less flood so it can be used outdoors

I have XHP70.3HI 5700K 90CRI from Kaidomain and i am really impressed with tint and beam

Same, very good bin!

GT-FC40 5500K

YES!!!

If M400 will be 12V, FC40 goes in 100%

Sick of the shity XHP70.3 tints

Even better is https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/70160/260

What I want is a 26800 EDC light with magnetic charging. Quad LEDs, floody 519A. Yeah add that anduril stuff in there too.

I have huge hands and hold these 18650 lights like chopsticks. I need a REAL LIGHT.

I just see this post and might be too late, but I’d like to see a cooler temp like 5700K-6000K option with a nice tint/CRI. Many lights offer popular LEDs only in neutral-warm white (5000K and under). If M150V3 had 519A in 5700K, I would have bought it (I own one M150V2 with CREE LED just because LH351D was too warm).