Sorry to hear that. They apparently knew a quality flashlight when they saw it though.
Do be aware that this is a smaller light than the KR4, running on a 14500 battery instead of an 18650. It should be a great pocket light at a very nice price, but the maximum brightness won’t be as impressive.
I appreciate it…apparently they knew what quality pistols (Dan Wesson), a display case full of ST Dupont lighters, and a whole bunch of other stuff were.
Yeah, I currently carry a Wowtac W1 (Thrunite T1) modded with a LH351D (4?K…I think). It’s nice, but wouldn’t mind something with anduril. The KR4 was only 2k/lm I believe. I ended up ordering the Red aux one so I don’t miss out. I can always change them if needed.
imo Raw Aluminium is a Bad idea, here are some reasons. Italic portions are quotes from googling:
1. Anodised has 17X better heat emission: The unfinished surface of aluminum can be measured at an emissivity of approximately 0.05. The emissivity of an anodized aluminum surface can be measured at around 0.85.
2. Raw Aluminium will oxidise, it does not stay shiny, unless it is repolished Although the relation between Al and neurodegenerative diseases is still controversial, Al is related with many brain diseases including Alzheimer’s disease, Parkinson’s disease, and multiple sclerosis.
3. Aluminium is toxic, I would not want to handle raw aluminium. Aluminium’s free metal cation, Alaq(3+), is highly biologically reactive and biologically available aluminium is non-essential and essentially toxic.
Honestly, I cannot think of one good reason to choose raw aluminium.
If I want a shiny host material, Im a BIG fan of Titanium.
If this light has an internal signal tube, I think silver anodizing would be better. If both the signal tube and the body are anodized, there is protection against shorting the signal tube to the body on both sides. If the body is raw aluminum, a scratch in the signal tube could hypothetically cause unintended behavior.
I’ll defer to experience others may have whether this should be a deciding factor, but I think it should be considered for a light of this type.
Keep in mind, the E17A is rated by Nichia for only 700mA. I think Clemence said it could be pushed to 1.75A on a really good MCPCB, but it doesn’t seem like most manufacturers have familiarity with such MCPCB’s. It also has a low forward voltage that could increase the risk of overdriving on a FET-powered light.
The LatticePower CSP2323 that Wurkkos said is being used in this light is rated for 1.4A.
It would be a really nice option if the E17A can safely run in this light, but it seems marginal to me.