Wurkkos, you consider to made a version with 3X Nichia E17A 1850k ?
AA/14500 compatible
2700k LEDs please
I’ve got a black with blue aux on the way.
I’d buy another with different color aux, and a different body color.
The coated silver, cyan or a bright green.
OD/ army green might as well be black.
Pink.
Raw aluminum would be perfect, warmer emitter please…
If this light has an internal signal tube, I think silver anodizing would be better. If both the signal tube and the body are anodized, there is protection against shorting the signal tube to the body on both sides. If the body is raw aluminum, a scratch in the signal tube could hypothetically cause unintended behavior.
I’ll defer to experience others may have whether this should be a deciding factor, but I think it should be considered for a light of this type.
Keep in mind, the E17A is rated by Nichia for only 700mA. I think Clemence said it could be pushed to 1.75A on a really good MCPCB, but it doesn’t seem like most manufacturers have familiarity with such MCPCB’s. It also has a low forward voltage that could increase the risk of overdriving on a FET-powered light.
The LatticePower CSP2323 that Wurkkos said is being used in this light is rated for 1.4A.
It would be a really nice option if the E17A can safely run in this light, but it seems marginal to me.
If E17A isn’t right, l would like to have ICSP2323 at 1800k high Cri
For me 2700k Leds are common and too cold for late night use
You did not mention raw AL is soft and subject to dings and scratches… you did say, and my big problem with it is that it corrodes easily (making it look like crap).
I fully agree with the rest of your post. I am curious why people like raw aluminum… unless they just love to spend time polishing…???
The process was developed and aluminum is almost always anodized for very good reasons.
Anyway, if it is bright metal, mine would have to be silver anodized.
Micro arc oxidation in white or light gray for body it would be great.
Cyan, purple or blue for aux leds.
Oh, yes that would be lovely!
Some additional recommendations for the color of the light body:
Tan
Camouflage
light blue
dark blue
olive drab
light grey
dark grey
All colors with matte finish please. Glossy tends to look cheap.
It would also be really nice to have the light manufactured in Titanium. Yes it’s a lot pricier, but it looks great and is very durable. Many people are willing to pay the extra money for Titanium despite the cost, worse thermal properties and higher weight.
Was looking at getting some E21As through Clemence for this same reason. How did you go about getting into the group buy? Just contact him directly?
OD green,red,blue,orange are all fine.Might even buy one of each but not unless you offer warmer led tints.
I have the WildTrails WT90 in "Raw" aluminum, but i dont know if it is actually "raw". It is unanodized, it looks like it is not clearcoated, but it has not tarnished or oxidized at all. So maybe its clearcoated? I have several lights that are labeled as "raw" aluminum in there sale page, but i dont know they must be clear coated bc none of them have oxidized.
So, point of my story is that i like whatever "raw" finish the FireFlies ROT66, wildtrail wt90, Astrolux mf01s, ,and many others are. Maybe they're clearcoated? Thats what i was hoping for when Wurkkos asked about wanting "raw" aluminum.
I definitely do not want a light that oxidizes, nor was i expecting that is what Wurkkos would make. But if it is truly "raw" as in completely unfinished, then i would vote Against it. I just figured the "industry standard" (if there is one? lol) for enthusiast flashlights when making "raw" aluminum finishes was something that does not oxidize. Since i have owned about a dozen lights in this finish and not one of them has oxidized. Well, not to any noticeable amount. then again, i dont leave any of them outside in the elements for any length of time. :)
no experience, can you share a photo?
there is also clear anodising
maybe ask one of those “raw” light makers what “raw” means?
I have a number of aluminum lights in which I removed the anodozing and polished the bare aluminum with Blue Magic. Even after repeated handling they still look shiny. There’s no visible oxidation.
However, what doesn’t look good is the bare aluminum is so soft it tends to get scratched and dinged up. With dings it looks awful.
This is why I prefer Titanium in my bare metal lights. It’s much tougher and doesn’t scratch much.
I’d love some vibrant body colours, as black tends to get kind of boring. Especially in an edc.
Blue (like the Astrolux EA01S), or maybe red, orange or cyan.
If you want to go the fancy and novel route, MAO would be awesome!
As for aux colour, more ice blue would be appreciated, as I unfortunately missed the first batch.
There’s some oxidation, but less visible than other patina.
Don’t like it very much. I have the two BLF C01S lights that Sofirn issued, but only because they are BLF lights.
Lets wait to see if the flashlight is inherently good before rushing to request different colors and materials.
The BLF A6 was released , as a option , in raw aluminium right?
I have 3 of those and all are still as nice as they were when new.
Sure if you bang them up they mark but still doesn’t look as tatty as a black/coloured anodised light with the anodisation chipped off.
So raw aluminium for me please. 