Doesn’t dedoming also extend throw and cut back a bit on spill, all things being equal with the same optic?
I enjoy tints that lean rosy, but not too much. A bit more towards golden seems more natural, closer to incandescent. But yeah, the green… I absolutely loathe it. Especially a puke green with yellowish overtones. I’d bought a few lights with tints like that in the deep past, the worst being an Olight M2 Warrior. The artifacts in the beam were also atrocious. Olight has surely come a long way from those days!
Yes - it is personal preference, there’s no right or wrong (well except for some egregious examples like my copy of Thrunite TT2 w/ green hell Cree NW XHP70.2). Some love the 219b 4500k always, I love it for the stunning color rendering, but NOT always because I find the magenta tint not as relaxing as a more golden hue. Like all hobbies, audio, photography, cars, etc., there are choices for any kind of “toy,” and the lucky ones get to experience all the flavors. Each not necessarily better than another, just different.
Personally were I to start a collection of Nichia, this is what I would like to get IMHO/YMMV: 1. Convoy S21D with Nichia 219b 4500k 2a. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b 3500k. Because it has a warmer CCT that any Nichia hobbyist should experience and is a 219b R9080. 2b. Convoy S21D with Nichia 519a 4500k original, NOT dedomed. Because it has a relaxing “golden” hue and doesn’t cause me to over analyze everything I see . It “feels” most like the incandescent or warm-white LED light bulbs in my house, ie “normal” lighting.
Hey cannga, I got the metal tail switch that you recommended and I love the function of it. Although, I notice the blue light on the switch is getting dimmer, almost like its failing. Is this normal for you also?
I have too many lights with so many different types of accessory lights so I may not notice when something is off, but no I haven’t noticed any such problem. I’ll check later when I’m home.
I agree, no right or wrong — just about fulfilling a preference. I do have a few different “shades of Nichia” in my collection already, from 219b R9050 sw35 sw30 to R9080 sw45, and 219c sw50. I don’t have any E21 or 519a.
Per Simon it appears the shortage of S21D is related to availability of the new driver option. Yep new OPTION. Whereas the original S21D has 8A Buck driver, the next batch of S21D will have new 12A FET driver.
The puzzle is that the old 8A Buck driver will also be available after that next batch with 12A FET.
I quoted my temperature observation above because during my comparison with Emisar D4V2 with max thermal limit reset to 55 C, the S21D with 8A Buck driver was one, among the most toasty of all my lights, and two, maintained excellent brightness during the run down from Turbo, much better than D4V2.
It would be interesting to see how the FET version compares. Personally until some reviewer could do a run time comparison, I would be tempted to wait for the Buck driver version because it maintains brightness so well but of course that means you’ll have to wait.
No announcement of any price change. From what I’ve read if anything a FET driver tends to be less expensive than Buck drivers.
The message I seem to be getting from Simon (he likes to answer my complex question with a short phrase ) is that if you don’t have any problem with the present Buck driver light, don’t worry about changing the driver.
The saga continues - the on again off again availability of Opple Light Master Pro. For what seemed like an eternity the “Pro” version was not available anywhere, but now seems to be on Aliexpress. Waiting for a bigger sale is too painful so I bought it right away.
Fingers crossed that there’s no shenanigans and it’s the Pro and NOT the cheaper Series 2 that they will send me, but this is THE legit official store and it seems the item is already at transport hub so should be ok. If you’d like to get one, just make sure it’s the item on the right side (in the red square), where under “Color” it will say Pro (please don’t ask me why it’s under “Color” lol ). The other way to tell is of course the Pro is more expensive.
If you have multiple Nichia’s, this of course makes the hobby even more fun, but should be educational to check & compare CRI and DUV of all the light bulbs in the house, etc. also. It’s not going to be super accurate like the $600 meter that Simon uses, but like my usual motto for Convoy lights, at 40 bucks I’m not complaining .
Optic options also available - if you order the light now, ask for an extra one, he might just include it for free. The one I have is 60 degree, very nicely floody if that’s what you want. The next step down is the 30 dgree, which would be what I’d be interested in (I already am using Sofirn IF25a’s more throwy optic in my Convoy S21D and like this combination very much.).
Since I only use the light for low - medium levels, would it be best to get the 8A driver instead of the FET 12 since I won’t utilize the boost driver?
Will the 12A driver still be ok to use for low - medium levels or it wouldn’t be optimized as the 8A?
. It “feels” most like the incandescent or warm-white LED light bulbs in my house, ie “normal” lighting.
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