and thanks for all the coaching, including explaining the T and R little black diode on the TTL that gchart built for SP10 Pro… I think Im almost ready to flash SC21 Pro…
instead of soldering wires to the TTL and the flashing pads on the light, I would like to build a pogo adapter for the SC21 Pro
can anyone here suggest a shopping list and links of what to buy to build a pogo pin harness adapter to fit SC21 Pro…
I have no experience shopping for the connectors and wires needed.
It’s very easy soldering. If I were you i would just cut the wires in your picture and solder them to the board.
Why wait for parts when you can get new FW already today?
Just apply a small blob of solder to the pads, then a little on the end of the wire.
Put the cable on top of the pad and touch it with the soldering iron so that it melts together.
That way you don’t have to hold the wire, the tin and the soldering iron at the same time.
You can use a soldering braid to remove the solder from the board afterwards if you like (I just left it there in case I want to flash it again in the future).
thanks for your thoughts. I do not want to destroy the pogo adapter that gchart built for the SP10 Pro… so I wont cut those wires.
I do understand I could just solder wires to the programmer and light… and might do that, but, I have more than one SC21 Pro, so a pogo pin harness for that model, would be better than soldering wires…
in any case, thank you very much for getting me past my hardware wiring questions. Will update when I successfully update my SC21 Pro lights to Anduril 2.
update, with the tremendous help from zumlin on reddit I have moved one step closer… I measured the pads spacing on the SC21 Pro,
jon_slider, please let us know how that 6 pin adapter works out. I don’t mind soldering pins to boards, but I don’t know anything about board design. I was hoping gchart would throw a design out on Oshpark.
Hey I am actually on BLF too. I read a lot here but I just don’t post much.
The numbers are a bit off, 1.4mm vs 1.27mm, 7.4mm vs 6.35mm (1.27 x 5). I have actually experienced this in the LT1, the spacing between the pads was a bit bigger than between the pogo pins, and they were not lined up straight either, but I was still able to flash it with a similar flashing adapter.
I hope that they are close enough on the SC21 Pro and I hope you have success flashing it.
What is the Parasitic Drain of the button LEDs on Low and on High
What is the Parasitic Drain with the main LED ON at lowest mode, w button light on low?
IS there LVP for the Button light, or Can it overdischarge a battery?
backstory, recent reports on the TS10 show no LVP for button lights, and using High Aux (they are wired as button lights), on that light causes overdischarge.
that is why I am asking what the Parasitic Drain is,
on the Green Button Light on High, of the SC21 Pro.
I want to calculate how many days before Overdischarge.
fwiw, that green button light does not produce a measureable output on my light meter
otoh, the TS10 Red Aux on High, measure 0.2 lumens (and overdischarges within 5 days of 24/7).
fwiw, The Floor output of 1/150 on the main LEDs of the TS10 also measures 0.2 lumens.
I finally figured out how to reflash Anduril 2 onto the SC21 Pro
the programmer I got from gchart for the SP10 Pro, also works for the SC21 Pro, with a separate harness…
I did not have pogo pins, I soldered the wires to the flashing pads on the driver. The wire harness I used for the SC21 Pro, came from a separate purchase on aliex… .
all this thanks to Adair21’s post,
plus lots of help from several kind people who coached me privately to install all the software and driver, on my iMac.
Alright you flashing fiends… while I think the decision on the flashing pad arrangement of the SC21 Pro is just silliness, I just can’t help but make flashing keys (especially when I am persuaded to do so…). I just whipped these guys up, I’ll have them available whenever Oshpark can get them to me (likely a couple of weeks):
Depending on what style of programmer you have, I made two different types of adapters, one with the resistor and diode on board, one without. Really, the one with the resistor and diode would cover both scenarios - you would just connect the RX line and leave the TX empty… but I created and ordered the 3-wire version before I thought about that. Oh well!
Im getting ready to order a couple more SC21 Pro, because, tailmagnet, lighted button, built in charging, great beam, moddable, get the battery too… Makes a perfect Total Package gift for someone new to LiIon… .
notice the button light stays On when main LED is On…
Hot Tip
if you prefer the button light Off when main LED is On, reflash w gchart’s Awesome TS10 Hex File.
and btw, the SC21 Pro button is Easy to find by touch too, it sticks out nicely. :innocent:
I keep one in my car… can be a hands free car camping/tailgating/tire changing lamp, thanks to the magnet and hatclip, and can also be recharged in the car… w the A to C USB cable included in the package.
And with gchart’s Awesome Hex File and Flashing Kit, it adds Anduril 2, with Firefly lows, and LVP on the button lights. State of the Art!
30% off SC21 Pro
(not affiliated, just a fan)
Discount code: B1VJQER6
great work
confused by the choices, I will take whichever Programming kits for both TS10, and SC21 Pro, that you want to sell me. I have a couple TS10 inbound, to fill the gap since this pair went to new homes:
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