Review: Wurkkos TS10 w 5500K LEDs and Red Aux

I thought my Opple was nuts… I get 99.6 CRI! This is the first 5800+k light that I actually am inclined to like. The output is so clean and so white that it does not hurt my eyes.

Definitely a fun little light. I like that the TS10 beam throws more, is less floody, than my FWAA.

I just ordered a Red TS10 w 4000K LEDs and Red Aux lights… woohoo!

Me too. I haven’t even gotten the ts10’s I ordered on June 6 yet and I just did the same!

I suspect the LEDs in the Ts10 are the same as the Wuben F5 NW tint setting…an advertised as 5700k, but I get about 5500k and 99 CRI. I dont think it’s possible, but maybe it’s close? It’s within 5%.

> What does 150/150 actually mean?

Anduril has 150 steps from lowest to highest output.
150/150 = highest = turbo,
1/150 = lowest

Boy was I wrong about the tint being too bright for a tiny light, dang near perfect light the only issue being the aux lights…Thanks Wurkkos the TS10 is best in class imo and like many of you guys I also ordered 4k red on red.

What “issue”?

Turn the aux off , put TS10 in moonlight and take a look.

That behavior is just on flashed file away from being fixed and getting the latest Anduril 2 features. I could not live without 3C unlock to off. The switch is a little less sensitive than it could be, but otherwise it is fantastic.

I have, see my post on reddit

As you can see, the aux leds are fixed on the MCPCB.

Is the design and construction of the Wurkkos TS10 somewhat similar to the Lumintop FWAA with an electrically isolated inner tube (to carry the Anduril control signal from the tail cap switch to the MCU) and if there is an inner tube can it be separated from the light's body after removing the tail cap?

Thanks

  • Yes there is an inner contact tube to the tailcap like in the FWAA. When I unscrew the head I can see the inner tube poking out. It appears to be free-floating as I was able to move it slightly with my finger. It popped back into position after moving it so I think there is one or more o-ring around it.
  • The tailcap on mine appears to be glued. I didn’t put much effort into trying to remove it though, so unable to tell how easy it would be to break the threadlocker. I assume the tube comes out from the back once the tailcap is unscrewed, but since there is threadlocker it is obviously harder to modify than an FWAA.

Thanks for the information.

I have no intention of modifying the inner tube or tail cap, was just wondering if Wurkkos had developed an innovative alternative solution to carry the control signal without an inner tube.

tail and bezel use blue loctite
.
there is an additional O ring to support the signal tube, in a groove inside the body tube

Thanks for the picture.

Sounds like there are two O-rings on the inner tube, with I'm assuming one O-ring at each end of the tube, which would help ensure the inner tube stays electrically isolated from the light's body (which carries the current to the LEDs) without just relying on the anodization on these two parts.

All my recent flashlight purchases have been from AmazonUS (with easy returns for the few defective ones).

The TS10 and some other interesting lights not available on Amazon may force me to leave my comfort risk zone and place some overseas orders. Especially since none of the lights I have purchased from Amazon had readily accessible flashing pads and I would eventually like to be able to modify and update Anduril on my lights.

Anyone else notice the aux lights are on the wrong config? They’re set as button LEDs so they stay on when the main LEDs are on in mine. It’s a little hard to see but they ramp up to high as you ramp the main LEDs up.

Yes. It’s fixable by flashing a new version of Anduril. However, flashing the TS10 is non-trivial and there is no off-the-shelf flashing cable available.

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/vcn3df/wurkkos_ts10_partial_teardown

Can you measure how much force it requires for the switch to click?

My FW3A requires about 300g (10.6oz) and my KR4 about 450g (15.9oz). Judging from the looks of the tail switch part in TS10, I would guess it would not be that much different from KR4.

I do not have a way to measure the linear force for the button, but it is much stronger than the FW3A’s and KR4/KR1’s I own.

good question

Switch pressures:

stock FWAA 10 ounces

stock TS10 24 ounces

FWAA w O ring mod 28 ounces