I received a Review Sample of the
Wurkkos TS10 w 5500K LEDs and Red Aux lights
Wow this thing is tiny! I love the waistline and the tailcap design reminds me of bamboo.. very nice.
Tailstands perfectly.
The TS10 beam is more throwy than the FWAA.. YAAAAY!!!
and the Tint is not green, and the CCT is not Blue. This is a very nice LED.
Fwaa 219c 4000Km TS10 5500K
The light feels great in hand, the button has a solid clic, not as easy to turn on as a stock FWAA.
Did I mention that the form factor feels really nice in hand, the aux LEDs are really fun, and the tint and CRI and CCT are awesome?! Plus it throws more than the FWAA.. yes I know Im repeating myself. Its worth repeating.. This is a really nice little light!
weights 48 grams w battery
Outputs in Advanced mode
0.09 low (FWAA is 0.12)
1000 lumens turbo (2c from on)
525 ceiling (2c from off)
outputs in simple mode
0.7 low
ceiling is turbo (2C from off and 2C from on also)
7 clics from off to change aux light brightness.
This is Anduril 2… with NO midramp nor topramp flashes.. YAY! Loving It!
Thanks for the side-by-side comparison with FWAA.
I’m looking forward to 2700K
Reviews: Pocket thrower comparison, Brinyte E18 Pheme, XTAR SC1 Plus, Acebeam Rider RX, Sofirn LT1s, VezerLezer ED10, XTAR VC2L
btw, I recommend raising the thermal limit to 55C.. this allows the light to sustain about 280 lumens.. By default the light throttles down to 85 lumens within 30 seconds of higher output, such as the 100/150 ceiling in Advanced. (ceiling in simple is 150/150)..
High CRI lights for sale
Could you take a picture from the tail where we could see that switch?
added some glow paint to the mcpcb:
.
High CRI lights for sale
You know, just to see that design. So it’s a steel button and not a rubber one. Good.
This Post is a Cry for HELP with learning how to reflash Anduril on a TS10. Maybe someone here will take pity on me, and walk me through the process.
Bear in mind Ive been struggling at every step of the way, for quite a long time.
At this point I have my iMac set up with all the software that gchart coached me on installing in Terminal. And I have the gchart SP10 Pro programmer that he built. The TS10 has the same flashing pads
So, Im trying to follow these instructions from Adair21:
===
Here’s the gist of it:
1. wire up the programmer to the light: pin2 => GND pin6 => VCC pin1 => TX/RX (depending on the programmer, you might need a 1kOhm resistor between TX and pin1)
2. figure out what your programmer is called on your system • mine was /dev/tty.usbserial-1420 but yours might be different
3. try to ping the light • pymcuprog ping -t uart -u /dev/tty.usbserial-1420 -d attiny1616
4. make a backup of the existing hex • pymcuprog read -m flash -f ~/Desktop/sc21.hex -t uart -u /dev/tty.usbserial-1420 -d attiny1616
5. erase the mcu • pymcuprog erase -m flash -t uart -u /dev/tty.usbserial-1420 -d attiny1616
6. write the new firmware • pymcuprog write -f ~/Downloads/anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex -t uart -u /dev/tty.usbserial-1420 -d attiny1616
7. Do a factory reset on the light just because lol
===
And Im stuck on Step 2.. how do I figure out what the programmer is called?
High CRI lights for sale
What is the output for this command? (It should be one of the devices listed)
thank you!
this is the result: (with the programmer plugged into a USB port on the back of my iMac)
input: ls /dev/{tty,cu}.*
output: /dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port /dev/tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port
(I do not know why it lists the /dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port twice, there are actually 4 usb ports on the back of the iMac, I have nothing plugged in to the other three)
.
High CRI lights for sale
Can you try this to see if the device is connected?
ioreg -p IOUSB -lioreg -r -c IOUSBHostDevice -lUnfortunately I don’t have an adapter to test the output here.
either of those two command lines produce several pages of output..
here is a sample from the first command, at the end of the output:
+-o USB2.0-Serial@14200000 <class AppleUSBDevice, id 0×100001140, register$ { “sessionID” = 44282508400420 “iManufacturer” = 0 “bNumConfigurations” = 1 “idProduct” = 29987 “bcdDevice” = 611 “Bus Power Available” = 250 “USB Address” = 23 “bMaxPacketSize0” = 8 “iProduct” = 2 “iSerialNumber” = 0 “bDeviceClass” = 255 “Built-In” = No “locationID” = 337641472 “bDeviceSubClass” = 0 “bcdUSB” = 272 “USB Product Name” = “USB2.0-Serial” “PortNum” = 2 “non-removable” = “no” “IOCFPlugInTypes” = {“9dc7b780-9ec0-11d4-a54f-000a27052861”=“IOUSBFam$ “bDeviceProtocol” = 0 “IOUserClientClass” = “IOUSBDeviceUserClientV2” “IOPowerManagement” = {“DevicePowerState”=0,“CurrentPowerState”=3,“Ca$ “Device Speed” = 1 “idVendor” = 6790 “IOGeneralInterest” = “IOCommand is not serializable” “IOClassNameOverride” = “IOUSBDevice” }
High CRI lights for sale
TS10 surpasses FWAA from any point of view, the most beautiful and performing light, a must have!
I dug this up: https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/any-usb-to-serial-cable-driver-for-... which says that only certain USB serial adapters that contain an FTDI chipset work on MacOS Monterey and higher.
That combined with the lack of output from this command likely means a driver issue, but I don't have a adapter here to confirm on my end
Command:
ls /dev/tty.usb*Example output:
/dev/tty.usbserial-ftDIthanks for trying.. to help
my mac is on Sierra 10.12.6
is this supposed to be two separate commands:
====
ls /dev/tty.usb*
/dev/tty.usbserial-ftDI
====
it shows up as 2 separate lines in your post
High CRI lights for sale
Updated my post to clarify, the second line is the output you should get it the usb serial has been recognised.
“ftDI” is a placeholder for the serial number of the device.
so yes, youre right, my mac is not able to see the TTL
it just responds with
ls: /dev/tty.usb*: No such file or directory
thanks again for trying to help.. Im going to stop bashing my head against the wall for now.. enjoy your Sunday, and
Happy Fathers day to all
High CRI lights for sale
Do you have access to any other computers? (A raspberry pi for example?)
> Do you have access to any other computers?
no, just this 2015 iMac…
Do I need to buy a new computer to be able to flash Anduril?
> only certain USB serial adapters that contain an FTDI chipset work on MacOS Monterey and higher.
or maybe just a different TTL Programmer?
High CRI lights for sale
I just noticed that you said your mac is on Sierra 10.12
Can you try these instructions? They apply to the CH340 chip you have on Mac versions earlier than Mojave 10.14
https://github.com/adrianmihalko/ch340g-ch34g-ch34x-mac-os-x-driver
> Can you try these instructions?
thanks for the suggestion.. might give it a try later.. much appreciated
High CRI lights for sale
Jon, what CRI does your Opple measure?
Smile, you cannot kill them all.
High CRI lights for sale
Nice, thank you
Smile, you cannot kill them all.
I thought my Opple was nuts… I get 99.6 CRI! This is the first 5800+k light that I actually am inclined to like. The output is so clean and so white that it does not hurt my eyes.
EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)
Definitely a fun little light. I like that the TS10 beam throws more, is less floody, than my FWAA.
I just ordered a Red TS10 w 4000K LEDs and Red Aux lights.. woohoo!
High CRI lights for sale
I suspect the LEDs in the Ts10 are the same as the Wuben F5 NW tint setting…an advertised as 5700k, but I get about 5500k and 99 CRI. I dont think it’s possible, but maybe it’s close? It’s within 5%.
Highest high CRI or nothing at all! This light is just so pure white that my eyes are still a bit shocked.
I do have some questions and I don’t want to litter sales thread too much so maybe this thread will do.
First question is about aux-leds and how do they look in lowest mode. And those ain’t scratches, they are dust.
Has anyone opened this yet? I wonder if aux-leds should be like that where two of them are kinda behind the optics, but one is more freely between?
I found out where to toggle between high and low auxes, but how do I save that setting? I switched them to high, turned off and when I turned on again they were on low again. EDIT: they seem to work now, but is there easier way to toggle between high and low without going through Advanced UI if I like to keep this simple? Could I flash this with first Anduril and would that make it easier or not?
What else I should do before this is good to go? Set temperatures and ceiling? What does 150/150 actually mean? That it goes to full power with just regular ramping and no need to turbo clicks?
> What does 150/150 actually mean?
Anduril has 150 steps from lowest to highest output.
150/150 = highest = turbo,
1/150 = lowest
High CRI lights for sale
Boy was I wrong about the tint being too bright for a tiny light, dang near perfect light the only issue being the aux lights..Thanks Wurkkos the TS10 is best in class imo and like many of you guys I also ordered 4k red on red.
High CRI lights for sale
Pages