【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

Code:WKTS10220620, –1.5 dollar

Package content for 3 choice:

without battery charger: 1 flashlight, 1 user manual, 1 lanyard, 1 clip, 2 replace orings

with battery: 1 flashlight, 1 user manual, 1 lanyard, 1 clip, 2 replace orings, 1* 14500 900mah battery

with battery charger:1 flashlight, 1 user manual, 1 lanyard, 1 clip, 2 replace orings, 1* 14500 900mah battery,1 usb charger

Mine should be here tomorrow. Looking forward to it. Will post a few words once it is here and I have played with it a bit.
From the pics, I am already loving the size.
What is wrong with the clip?? (ahhh… the oft hated bi-directional clip) Same type on my current favorite 14500, the SP10 Pro. Not a favorite of mine, but handy in certain situations… and it works fine.

  • It’s a 2-way clip - yes, they’re the fad that all manufacturers seem to be sticking on their lights these days, but I hate them. The only advantage a 2-way clip has over a 1-way clip is that you can stick it on a ball-cap. But if you’re like me and don’t wear ball caps that benefit is completely lost … a good 1-way clip should always be better.
  • The extra bend of 2-way clips sometimes gets caught on things in a pocket when the light is withdrawn from a pocket. I haven’t checked to see if that is an issue with the TS10’s clip, but it was an issue with the FWAA’s clip.
  • The bottom of the TS10’s clip lacks an angled bend to allow the clip to ride up over the edge of a pocket or belt when the light is clipped to something. Result is clipping the light onto anything is a 2-handed operation: one hand to lift the end of the clip up, while the other holds the light. This is inherently less convenient than a clip with an angled lip at the tip to allow the light to be clipped to something with just one hand.
  • If you only ever use your light bezel-down, the extra bend of a 2-way clip means extra unneeded weight is being carried around.
  • If you only ever use your light bezel-down, the extra bend of a 2-way clip means the clip is sticking out further from the flashlight body than needed, making the light less compact.

Have you ever hooked the end of your (non-bi directional) clip on something like a shirt tail or coat and accidentally pulled it out? I have, a bunch of times and lost lights because of it. The rounded leading edge of this clip looks like it is far less prone to getting snagged on something and pulled out of your pocket.

Just something to think about.

How is regulation on the light?

Does it use a linear style driver or is it all DD FET?

It’s FET+1x7135 :


(Picture courtesy of u/zumlin)

I received a DOA TS10 3 days ago, aux LEDs work but not the main emitters. I promptly wrote to support email address but got no answer, any idea how to have it replaced?

While holding the button down do the main LEDs light up dimly? If so, then the problem is lockout is activated and you just need to click 4x to unlock the light.

The next most likely culprit is the connection between the switch and the driver. Make sure the head is screwed all the way down. If the head isn’t screwed in enough, the inner tube won’t make contact and the switch won’t work. Result is the aux leds will be on, but the switch won’t do anything and the main LEDs won’t light.

How long is the 14500 battery you are using? If it is too long, it is possible that it is preventing the head from screwing down all the way. In that case, the light isn’t broken but it won’t work either. You would need to get shorter batteries.

If none of that works, then something internal is probably broken or not connecting. The problem might be something relatively simple to fix like a loose driver wire. Or it could be something much harder like a broken or improperly soldered FET.

Aux LEDs are working as expected (a part from the firmware bug when they don’t really turn off but only dims), I’m able to enter and exit lockout mode and advance mode in order to change the LEDs mode (7C). To me it seems something like a desoldered wire or a broken driver.

Fwiw, they don’t seem to read their email (wurkkos@foxmail.com). I’ve never had any reply to any questions. Same goes for Sofirn.

My black/blue 5800k is here and I love the light, I have a red/red 4000k on the way so all I want now is a purple/purple 2700k and I’ll be set!

@Wurkkos do you have plans or an eta for a warmer version? 2700k?

So the aux leds and the switch both seem to function. It’s just the main LEDs that aren’t working. Definitely sounds like something broken in the light.

Maybe it’s something really simple to fix like a loose driver wire on the star. Do you have basic soldering skills?

Even if you could get hold of warranty service, I’m not sure it’s worth the hassle of paying for shipping to send the light back, then waiting for warranty repair for a $20 light.

I’m glad I waited until my 5800K-6000K version arrived before buying a second one in 4000K, because the CW tint on the original version is phenomenal. Easily the nicest tint on a CW light I’ve ever seen.

This light feels like a much more expensive product than it is. I love the execution of the button. The overall fit and finish is superb. I do wish the clip were captive, but it’s an above-average fold-over clip (enough room at the bend for the lip of a jeans pocket seam, but tends to hang up before hitting full depth).

This just became my go-to small light for the foreseeable future. :+1:

Hey Wurkkos:

From preliminary reports the TS10 is an absolutely fantastic little light. Congrats to your designers! :+1:

  • Any chance of making a version of this light in titanium, or titanium with a copper head, or all copper? This is something other manufacturers like Emisar and Lumintop have done with their lights and is quite popular. Obviously, when made out of exotic materials the light would be heavier and cost more. But that’s a trade-off many buyers find acceptable in order to have a fancier looking light.
  • Any chance of making an optional deep-carry 1-way clip? Many users prefer one-way clips and like their lights to sit deeper in the pocket. It would be nice if you could make a deep-carry clip buyers could purchase separately on your website.

I would love a green body with purple aux

I had a similar problem in that when my light went into turbo mode or max brightness, it would start to flake out and nothing seemed to work right. The AUX light did function properly including changing the on/off/brightness 7C modes. My 14500 batts were new and never used so I did not suspect them as I had tried two different batts from the same maker. I recharged them fully and the TS10s (I had two experiencing the same problem) would work properly for a few minutes and then start to malfunction. I was perplexed as I could not see how both 14500s could be bad. On a whim, I tried a 14500 from a Wuben E6 and wonder of wonders, my TS10s worked perfectly. It appears my XTAR 800 protected 14500 batts can not sustain the current needed by the TS10. I thought it was strange when I was in momentary mode and at brighter settings my light would revert to normal after pressing the switch a few times. Now it makes more sense as the protection circuit was probably cutting out. When I use the Wuben 920mAh 14500 batts, both of my TS10 lights work as they should (which is fantastic). I believe the PCB on the XTAR trips at 2.8A. The Wubens are supposed to have some sort of protection as well, but I don’t know what kind of output they are capable of. In summary, my TS10s using the XTAR 14500 batts would go into some kind of trauma mode where only the AUXs and moonlight would work, but work perfectly with my Wuben 920mAh 14500s.

I wouldn’t expect that theres enough space in the body to run a protected cell even if it could deliver the power

Anduril lights have built in LVP in the driver, and work best with UNprotected cells.

Protected cells are not a good choice for lights that are going to be used at non sustainable outputs (above 100/150), because the protection circuit can stutter or shut the light off completely.

Both my XTAR and Wuben protected 14500s fit fine and can be pressed down a mm or two below the edge of the batt tube.