【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

I got my TS10 (black with orange). I really like it. Button is nice, nice beam, good tint and CRI.
It is real bright, especially for its size!
It IS a bit slippery. Both getting it out of a pocket and holding it. Something with a bit more grip would be great.
One thing, and I guess it is to be expected, it gets hot real fast. Using an H10 cell on turbo, it get uncomfortable to hold in well under 30 seconds.
Even at 110/150, it get toasty. I suppose the light is designed to take it, but I am a bit concerned about battery health.
Fortunately, having to use the light at these levels will be a rarity.
For the price, I love it and ordered another. But I think one needs to be careful of the heat on this little thing.

BTW, I turned the AUX lights off in the UI. I don’t see them lighting up when the main lights are on. I haven’t tried other settings to see if that changes yet.

I’m not so sure about that.

The Lumintop FWAA sells for $72 for the titanium version and is very comparable to the TS10. Wurkkos could probably get away with selling a titanium TS10 for a similar price.

That said, the FWAA was first to the market. That could justify them charging a higher price than they could have had there been competition on the market. It would be really nice if Wurrkos could sell the TS10 for $55 or $60 in Titanium.

ALSO NOTE: The current price of the Wurkkos TS10 is around $20, but at least on the Aliexpress site that is a discounted price. The list price is actually listed at $28.

Well, there’s a reason I don’t have any titanium lights :wink: Plus I stay away from Lumintop for completely unrelated reasons, but that’s way off topic.

Brass would be awesome wurkkos? You could always do a quick vote/pole?

It is a tad slippery but it will depend on a person’s hands. Maybe just a tiny bit of surface texture would be enough. Not to suggest copying Hank’s pattern on some of his battery tubes, but his approach is unique, attractive, comfortable, and effective for grip. Just micro grooves around the tube. I would imagine that it can be done very quickly and easily on a cnc machine, and probably with fewer rejects/mistakes than with diamond knurling. Here are a couple of pics I copied from his website and cropped…hopefully the detail shows up ok for you. It’s classy and from a distance it doesn’t even look like a texture or knurling. Perhaps Wurkkos could do something similar. The anodizing on the light looks very nice, btw.

Also…take note of the clip design! THIS is what many people would love. Captive ring, good shape and design, strong thicker metal. :slight_smile:

is the aux leds could be adjusted?

yeah, i will like to try brass or copper first, i wonder if i need a interested list? :smiley:

i will talk to factory always to do a lowest cost, The budget I’m looking for is less than $40 for the copper /brass version and $45-$50 for the titanium version

Now that’s more like it! If that budget holds, you’ve just sold the first ones :+1:

Great prices! In that case I would go Ti.

Maybe a poll can help you.

So I need to stop buying more TS10 now and wait for $40 copper/brass and $50 Ti!!

Had a problem with my TS10 tonight.

I noticed that one of the main LEDs appeared much dimmer than the other two. This is a recent change as when I got the light a few days ago all LEDs maintained the same brightness.

I opened up the bezel and took a look. The dim led looked pristine. No burn marks on it.

I then removed the star and reflowed the dim LED with a tiny bit more solder paste. It didn’t help. Same problem.

I took a close look at the leds running at low power with the optic off. The problem is only half of the dim LED is actually lighting up. Basically, the led is damaged and needs to be replaced.

What is the maximum rated current for the leds used in the TS10? They’re tiny and do not have a separate heatsink pad. Perhaps running on a fresh Vapcell H10 at turbo provides more power than these leds can handle.

http://en.latticepower.com/NewsView.aspx?id=108

DC max current : 1400mA
Pulsed max current : 2000mA

Same as E21A.

I think somebody mentioned ~7A with a H10, so higher than the max pulsed current. And yeah of course with those LEDs without neutral pad the quality of the dielectric is very important.

Ah that would do it.

In retrospect, this light probably would have been better off with a boost driver that could run on both AA and 14500. The lower max output of that driver compared to a FET would have protected the LEDs from burning out.

I think from now on I’ll run this TS10 and future ones on weaker cells. Perhaps Vapcell L10.

you are the second person to kill a CSP/E21a by using an H10

.

“With my custom hex and a fully charged Vapcell H10, ”it drew around 5A on turbo”:https://www.reddit.com/user/zumlin/”

I would definitely use a 3A cell, not a 10A cell

Or just a constant current circuit, set to 4A or 5A max current, without direct drive. Much cheaper and smaller than a boost driver and no issues getting parts etc... I'm honestly disappointed it has 7135 + FET.

Yup… TurboItis is a very dangerous condition. In combination w a 10A battery, the results can be Terminal.

I suggest setting the ceilings to 100/150, and disable Turbo.

I also suggest using the battery that Wurkkos sells, NOT an H10.

Just to let anyone know that Terry has been awesome in solving this

@Wurkkos, I believe the driver design should be changed entirely.for a fully regulated linear driver.

It would be either at 3/4A, but it would be nice.

This is what I would like to see!
I prefer the AA capability to max output (as long as it has good output on 14500 and turbo).
I would be OK with no AUX LEDs when running on AA.

FB