The Lumintop FWAA sells for $72 for the titanium version and is very comparable to the TS10. Wurkkos could probably get away with selling a titanium TS10 for a similar price.
That said, the FWAA was first to the market. That could justify them charging a higher price than they could have had there been competition on the market. It would be really nice if Wurrkos could sell the TS10 for $55 or $60 in Titanium.
ALSO NOTE: The current price of the Wurkkos TS10 is around $20, but at least on the Aliexpress site that is a discounted price. The list price is actually listed at $28.
It is a tad slippery but it will depend on a person’s hands. Maybe just a tiny bit of surface texture would be enough. Not to suggest copying Hank’s pattern on some of his battery tubes, but his approach is unique, attractive, comfortable, and effective for grip. Just micro grooves around the tube. I would imagine that it can be done very quickly and easily on a cnc machine, and probably with fewer rejects/mistakes than with diamond knurling. Here are a couple of pics I copied from his website and cropped…hopefully the detail shows up ok for you. It’s classy and from a distance it doesn’t even look like a texture or knurling. Perhaps Wurkkos could do something similar. The anodizing on the light looks very nice, btw.
Also…take note of the clip design! THIS is what many people would love. Captive ring, good shape and design, strong thicker metal.
i will talk to factory always to do a lowest cost, The budget I’m looking for is less than $40 for the copper /brass version and $45-$50 for the titanium version
I noticed that one of the main LEDs appeared much dimmer than the other two. This is a recent change as when I got the light a few days ago all LEDs maintained the same brightness.
I opened up the bezel and took a look. The dim led looked pristine. No burn marks on it.
I then removed the star and reflowed the dim LED with a tiny bit more solder paste. It didn’t help. Same problem.
I took a close look at the leds running at low power with the optic off. The problem is only half of the dim LED is actually lighting up. Basically, the led is damaged and needs to be replaced.
What is the maximum rated current for the leds used in the TS10? They’re tiny and do not have a separate heatsink pad. Perhaps running on a fresh Vapcell H10 at turbo provides more power than these leds can handle.
DC max current : 1400mA
Pulsed max current : 2000mA
Same as E21A.
I think somebody mentioned ~7A with a H10, so higher than the max pulsed current. And yeah of course with those LEDs without neutral pad the quality of the dielectric is very important.
In retrospect, this light probably would have been better off with a boost driver that could run on both AA and 14500. The lower max output of that driver compared to a FET would have protected the LEDs from burning out.
I think from now on I’ll run this TS10 and future ones on weaker cells. Perhaps Vapcell L10.
Or just a constant current circuit, set to 4A or 5A max current, without direct drive. Much cheaper and smaller than a boost driver and no issues getting parts etc... I'm honestly disappointed it has 7135 + FET.
This is what I would like to see!
I prefer the AA capability to max output (as long as it has good output on 14500 and turbo).
I would be OK with no AUX LEDs when running on AA.
considering how people are killing their TS10 LEDs with H10 batteries… And considering that Turbo steps down immediately due to thermal regulation, what benefit do you seek from Turbo?
imo, Turbo is just for marketing claims… the actual useful output, that is sustainable, is about 300 Lumens for a light this size, more than enough imo.
Consider that HDS sets max output to 200 lumens, on a 16340 light that weighs more than double the TS10. iow, the HDS has more thermal mass, yet limits output to 20% of the Turbo on the TS10. We dont hear of HDS lights overheating, nor burning out the LED.