【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

H10 is a vapcell high discharge 14500 that people have had some issues with in this light

Oh geez I feel stupid now, should have known :person_facepalming: Serious lack of sleep due to the super warm weather is taking it’s toll :weary:

So true! Glad youre making it work. And congrats on your TS10 orders :wink:

Finally got a TS10 and I have to say it’s the nicest cold white flashlight I’ve seen so far. Still have a cold white B35AM to reflow and compare, but these CSP emitters are quite nice. Still prefer warmer temps though :wink: Nice design as well, feels good in hand. Nicely done Wurkkos!

Thank you Streamtronics for your support always.
Everybody’s questions and suggestions are very precious for us, which will become Wurkkos’ power to move forward, make us higher, faster and stronger.

What needs to be commented out?

#define USE_INDICATOR_LED_WHILE_RAMPING in This file

Or you can change it to:

#undef USE_INDICATOR_LED_WHILE_RAMPING

Received confirmation that my next three TS10s on order shipped from Aliexpress today.

Gotcha, thanks!

Thank you for posting that. I’ve been waiting for mine to ship out from AE also. That’s encouraging.

So can anyone tell me if it possible or impossible for my 40A IJOY 26650’s to harm my dual channel emisar d4sv2 with lh351d/w1?

No, it's fine. Dual channel Emisar lights are regulated by default, same linear regulation that people would like to see in TS10.

Is there any increase in heat risk from using an H10 battery (10A drain rate), with linear regulation as opposed to the existing FET in the TS10?

Do you know when Wurkkos will start shipping the silver/white ones?

No…as said, it’s totally fine. The driver is a good one and the light as a package is made to handle what you can throw at it. That, but also those Samsung emitters are the “usual” types that are used in most lights and we have been using and abusing for over a decade as “we” began to push emitters harder, challenging the datasheets’ max figures, etc. We have lots of experience and tests with that one and most other emitters. These little micro chippy smd emitters from Latticepower don’t have that testing that we’re aware of, and they’re also constructed differently so they can’t handle as much heat and/or need probably more attention to heat dissipation than what we give other emitters/flashlight designs in general. But that said, we still don’t know for sure why one emitter in one light failed (we know that Zumlin believes his similar Nichia E21A emitters that he swapped into his TS10 host failed due to a poor quality reflow (soldering) and another failed after being toasted too hot on his hotplate…so not much to arrive at any conclusions here, and other people (including myself) are turboing this light with an H10 cell just fine so far).

Seems to be a lot of confusion and possibly some misinformation floating around the internet right now because of this as to cells and circuits. But generally, with most light designs and healthy available cells to buy, it’s not a big issue - just some differences in light output for some. We don’t know fully yet about the TS10 but your D4SV2 will be happy with anything you can put into it.

As a side note example, when you ordered that light from Hank he matched the driver design/output with the emitters you picked. If you had picked something like the E21A or 219B emitters, he would have used a different driver that puts out less current because those two emitters don’t like the same amount of heat that other emitters can cope with. Most light designs take all of this stuff into account and are tested for awhile before being sold to the public, so what you get should be fine and if there are special cautions they’ll usually state such (like no 14500 in a light designed for 1.5v AA cells…using matched high drain/low resistance cells in a multi-cell light…protected cells in a light that uses cells in series instead of parallel…etc).

No. The heat generated by LEDs in direct drive far exceed the heat created by the linear driver here.

Thank you very much guys.
This helps to put my mind at ease.

Anyone know if the tail cap is removable or if it’s glued like the bezel? I got a tail switch that’s not clicking down consistently and was trying to see if I could fix it.

I have one that was received with glue in the tailcap and one that was not. I have read that they should all be glued, though.

6.30th 03:00 for PST