Let's try to strart a new BLF project light in AA format

[derfyled]

@Gunga

I’d be into a few of these.

You are always there for all project Gunga :+1: ! Just like in the old CPF days.

[derfyled]

@mr_magoo

@derfyled

I thought about the adapter. This idea is not new, old-timers like me might remember that this was a project for the ARC aaa flashlight 20 years ago (don’t remember if it has ever seen the day).

You are right Parametrek about the wear on the PCB but as mentioned, this is an emergency light. That switch should not be often used. The twisty switch is still in my humble opinion the most reliable circuit breaker. No parts, no spring, no plastic, no board, no rubber, no moving parts, less opening for water.

The Tool AA comes with both switches (clicky and twisty). However, a bit pricey and too many modes. I am dreaming of a refreshed version of the EZ AA from Nitecore,

My (basic) understanding of a twisty switch tells me it necessitates either a spring or a rubber/ foam piece to push the cell back to reliably break contact without flickering. Ive only had a few twisty switches though so maybe some are different?

I’ve had a few unreliable twisties as well.

Some have a spring in the tail (like the C01S), some don’t.

If a Twisty light is unreliable, then it has been poorly machined or it’s a driver problem. Beside a bad thread, there is virtually no way a twisty switch can fail.

[Oli]

@derfyled

I hear you. They all (except my mother) have an A6 as their main light when we go trekking or camping. However, the grail light I’m talking about is small, cheap …

It sounds like the A6 is a special events lights not an EDC. Is this your Grail light your or theirs? You have to work with them to find something that they are willing to carry with them everyday and potentially use rather than their phone light.

[derfyled]

@Oli

@derfyled

I hear you. They all (except my mother) have an A6 as their main light when we go trekking or camping. However, the grail light I’m talking about is small, cheap …

It sounds like the A6 is a special events lights not an EDC. Is this your Grail light your or theirs? You have to work with them to find something that they are willing to carry with them everyday and potentially use rather than their phone light.

You nailed it, using their phone light is exactly what I wan’t them too avoid. Too unreliable. Have you ever seen a teenager that has more than 15 % of battery on their phone ?

I’m not looking for an EDC light. My wife and daughters never carry an EDC light, I’ve tried to convinced them but you know, I’m a weirdo for always carrying a light ( :person_facepalming: ). That’s why I would like them to have at least an emergency light in their bag/purse that can give them many hours of light.

[BlueSwordM]

Why not just go with a Convoy T3? A mechanical switch is perfectly fine overall if configured with simple modes.

Efficient driver, relatively inexpensive, etc.

Also, please let’s stop asking for new light designs. Let’s just try and reuse current designs because Sofirn’s 2 engineers are already overworked as is lmao.

So yeah, let’s change try and get Sofirn to reuse a current light design to make this project a thing.

[quahog]

@derfyled

The Tool AA comes with both switches (clicky and twisty). However, a bit pricey and too many modes.

The Tool AA is 12USD on AliExpress. Seems reasonable to me.

I prefer the Skilhunt E2A with an Energizer L91 as my emergency backup light in my car. Simple 3-mode with memory. Set it to the middle mode, throw in the glovebox and forget about it for years.

[Limsup]

(weight) One issue with AA lights is their weight. AA lights are usually more than twice as heavy than AAA lights. For your purpose, I think AAA lights would be much better choice despite shorter run times.

(cheap prices) I think cheap price is possible only if mass produced. But the features you want do not seem to attract the masses, therefore I think it is hard to achieve.

How about Nitecore MT06MD? It is pen shaped thus easy to carry along with other pens. High CRI Nichia 219B 5000K. Longer run time than single AAA lights. One bonus. Its head is compatible with Tool AAA, so if you want smaller light you can use Tool AAA’s tube since it can run with a single AAA.

[derfyled]

@quahog

@derfyled

The Tool AA comes with both switches (clicky and twisty). However, a bit pricey and too many modes.

The Tool AA is 12USD on AliExpress. Seems reasonable to me.

I prefer the Skilhunt E2A with an Energizer L91 as my emergency backup light in my car. Simple 3-mode with memory. Set it to the middle mode, throw in the glovebox and forget about it for years.

We have the same mind set. I thought the Tool was more expensive, thanks for pointing this out, I guess I will go this way. If only the E2A had a Twisty tailcap, it would be very close to what I’m looking for…

[raccoon]

I don't do twisties.

I might be interested in a tail switch AA flashlight if it's extremely inexpensive.

[derfyled]

@Limsup

(weight)

How about Nitecore MT06MD? It is pen shaped thus easy to carry along with other pens. High CRI Nichia 219B 5000K. Longer run time than single AAA lights. One bonus. Its head is compatible with Tool AAA, so if you want smaller light you can use Tool AAA’s tube since it can run with a single AAA.

I’ll have a look, thanks :+1:

[jon_slider]

the Jet Mk-1 is an AA Twisty with 3 modes including a 1.5 lumen low, and last mode memory, it has an O ring, so its waterproof, and it has a pocket clip,

it meets all your requirements except:
> cheap
> high CRI
> 2 modes
> 10 lumens
> starts on low
> tritium slot

Sofirn C01S is on flash sale
https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-c01s-aaa-flashlight-sst20-4000k-white-led-starts-on-low and has all these features you asked for:
> twisty
> cheap
> high CRI
> 2 modes
> starts on low
> tritium slot

some of my impressions of the C01S:

First Impressions Sofirn C01S

I just received a Sofirn C01S and am really enjoying it. It uses a 4000k SST-20, and it has 2 modes. I find both modes very useful indoors, I especially like the beam shape, which has a nice wide hotspot with even brightness. Here are some comparison photos [image] [image] [image] [image] fwiw, the Sofirn C01 is being reissued with a 3400k High CRI 5mm LED imo the little AAA Sofirn host is very practical, and includes a reversible clip that can be used on a hat. There is also a Sofirn C…

[wle]

i would not use AA

i would use CR123A cells

smaller, more energy, 20 year shelf life, no leaking

[derfyled]

@wle

i would not use AA

i would use CR123A cells

smaller, more energy, 20 year shelf life, no leaking

I totally agree with you on the benefits of lithium. That’s why I mentioned L91. All the same advantage of CR123 in an AA format. Then, in case of super-emergencies, AA are available everywhere.

[derfyled]

@jon_slider

Sofirn C01S is on flash sale
https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-c01s-aaa-flashlight-sst20-4000k-white-led-starts-on-low and has all these features you asked for:
> twisty
> cheap
> high CRI
> 2 modes
> starts on low
> tritium slot

some of my impressions of the C01S:
First Impressions Sofirn C01S

Thanks Jon, I might have to go that way with such a deal. I guess I’ll compromise and I’ll use L92…

[wle]

I have never had a good experience with L91 type AA ‘ultimate lithium’ cells

seems like they don;t really have very high peak current

cameras hate them, i know that

i think the chemistry is different from CR123A types

[derfyled]

@wle

I have never had a good experience with L91 type AA ‘ultimate lithium’ cells

seems like they don;t really have very high peak current

cameras hate them, i know that

i think the chemistry is different from CR123A types

Really? Been using them since around 20 years and I never had any problem with any. I might have been lucky ? About the peak current, I honestly have no idea. The only thing I know is that the voltage is slightly different from alkalines, (1,7v vs 1,5).

[Lightbringer]

@derfyled

If a Twisty light is unreliable, then it has been poorly machined or it’s a driver problem. Beside a bad thread, there is virtually no way a twisty switch can fail.

Tell that to my KL02s…

The foam-rubber “washer” that separates the negative end of the cell from the nubbin on the tail is more like memory-foam, in that it “gives” and eventually makes contact anyway. Loosen again, and again it collapses and makes contact. Rinse, repeat, ’til the tailcap just pops off.

Could probably replace that with a fat o-ring, but I shouldn’t have to.

That said, I like twisties, and the Jetbeams I (AA) and II (’123) are quite nice.

But you will not get a “vampire” circuit with ANY kind of smarts. Just boosting the voltage to run a µC negates the vampirism.

“Joule thief” circuits are hardwired to wring out as much juice from the paltriest of supplies for as long as possible.

The 3buk AA light from MicroStore is about as good as you’ll get, as it’ll drag down a cell to half a volt or so as long as it’s left on. Nasty CW light, but the emitter can be swapped out easily (16mm round, iirr), and the reflector is about the perfect size of a 20mm TIR lens for a much better beam.

[derfyled]

@Lightbringer

@derfyled

If a Twisty light is unreliable, then it has been poorly machined or it’s a driver problem. Beside a bad thread, there is virtually no way a twisty switch can fail.

Tell that to my KL02s…

The foam-rubber “washer” that separates the negative end of the cell from the nubbin on the tail is more like memory-foam, in that it “gives” and eventually makes contact anyway. Loosen again, and again it collapses and makes contact. Rinse, repeat, ’til the tailcap just pops off.

Could probably replace that with a fat o-ring, but I shouldn’t have to.

That said, I like twisties, and the Jetbeams I (AA) and II (’123) are quite nice.

But you will not get a “vampire” circuit with ANY kind of smarts. Just boosting the voltage to run a µC negates the vampirism.

“Joule thief” circuits are hardwired to wring out as much juice from the paltriest of supplies for as long as possible.

The 3buk AA light from MicroStore is about as good as you’ll get, as it’ll drag down a cell to half a volt or so as long as it’s left on. Nasty CW light, but the emitter can be swapped out easily (16mm round, iirr), and the reflector is about the perfect size of a 20mm TIR lens for a much better beam.

I understand and I’m also not a fan of foam ring in twisties. Bad experiences all the way back from the Jetbeam C-LE in 2005 (yep… I’m that old…). It’s not a good design and most ‘’modern’’ twisties don’t use them anymore.

You got my interest with the 3$ Microstore. Never seen these, where can I find them ? A quick search didn’t do it…

[pc_light]

@derfyled

…a project for the ARC aaa flashlight 20 years ago (don’t remember if it has ever seen the day)…

There was a limited run of ARC AA’s. Rare and those who still have ’em will probably never let them go.

@derfyled

…a refreshed version of the EZ AA from Nitecore,

I still have and pocket rotate my EZ-AA, great light. Here’s a size comparison FWIW.

Personally, I think there are a number of good compact AA lights. I think the Skilhunt E2A is one of them - good build and finish, simple 3-mode with mechanical tailcap, great CRI, and capable of draining AA batteries low.

How’s about just an AA version of the Sofirn C01 - compact well built. high-CRI 5mm, encapsulated and highly affordable. I can’t understand why Sofirm hasn’t already put one out, given how well received the C01’s were.

[Lightbringer]

@derfyled

You got my interest with the 3$ Microstore. Never seen these, where can I find them ? A quick search didn’t do it…

It’s something like a “R03”. Hang on…

Oh, that was easy…

https://www.microcenter.com/product/486512/inland-r22-1w-led-flashlight

They usually have ’em in boxes right at the checkout counters, like you’d sell keychains and the like.