i would not use AA
i would use CR123A cells
smaller, more energy, 20 year shelf life, no leaking
I totally agree with you on the benefits of lithium. That’s why I mentioned L91. All the same advantage of CR123 in an AA format. Then, in case of super-emergencies, AA are available everywhere.
Thanks Jon, I might have to go that way with such a deal. I guess I’ll compromise and I’ll use L92…
I have never had a good experience with L91 type AA ‘ultimate lithium’ cells
seems like they don;t really have very high peak current
cameras hate them, i know that
i think the chemistry is different from CR123A types
Really? Been using them since around 20 years and I never had any problem with any. I might have been lucky ? About the peak current, I honestly have no idea. The only thing I know is that the voltage is slightly different from alkalines, (1,7v vs 1,5).
Tell that to my KL02s…
The foam-rubber “washer” that separates the negative end of the cell from the nubbin on the tail is more like memory-foam, in that it “gives” and eventually makes contact anyway. Loosen again, and again it collapses and makes contact. Rinse, repeat, ’til the tailcap just pops off.
Could probably replace that with a fat o-ring, but I shouldn’t have to.
That said, I like twisties, and the Jetbeams I (AA) and II (’123) are quite nice.
But you will not get a “vampire” circuit with ANY kind of smarts. Just boosting the voltage to run a µC negates the vampirism.
“Joule thief” circuits are hardwired to wring out as much juice from the paltriest of supplies for as long as possible.
The 3buk AA light from MicroStore is about as good as you’ll get, as it’ll drag down a cell to half a volt or so as long as it’s left on. Nasty CW light, but the emitter can be swapped out easily (16mm round, iirr), and the reflector is about the perfect size of a 20mm TIR lens for a much better beam.
I understand and I’m also not a fan of foam ring in twisties. Bad experiences all the way back from the Jetbeam C-LE in 2005 (yep… I’m that old…). It’s not a good design and most ‘’modern’’ twisties don’t use them anymore.
You got my interest with the 3$ Microstore. Never seen these, where can I find them ? A quick search didn’t do it…
There was a limited run of ARC AA’s. Rare and those who still have ’em will probably never let them go.
I still have and pocket rotate my EZ-AA, great light. Here’s a size comparison FWIW.
Personally, I think there are a number of good compact AA lights. I think the Skilhunt E2A is one of them - good build and finish, simple 3-mode with mechanical tailcap, great CRI, and capable of draining AA batteries low.
How’s about just an AA version of the Sofirn C01 - compact well built. high-CRI 5mm, encapsulated and highly affordable. I can’t understand why Sofirm hasn’t already put one out, given how well received the C01’s were.
It’s something like a “R03”. Hang on…
Oh, that was easy…
https://www.microcenter.com/product/486512/inland-r22-1w-led-flashlight
They usually have ’em in boxes right at the checkout counters, like you’d sell keychains and the like.
Yes! You are right about the ARC AA, I now remember.
About the EZ AA: I’m glad to see some people remember them. You know what ? I also still use mine, it’s the rarer W version with a warm P4 in it. I also still have and use an EZ CR2.
I also think there is a market for C01 and C01S in AA version…
With a side switch for 3$ ! Does not fit my needs but I would definitely buy some for modding fun! Thanks for the suggestion.
Yeh, and I wouldn’t try ’em with Li-ion 14500s, but they work fine with LFPs.
Is any of the current twisties reliably debounced?
Not as far as I know. Some very old model might had some problem but I’m not aware of problems on currently available twisties.
That one was EZ-AAw but now reflowed with LH351 4K Hi-CRI for the 2x lumens bump.
The most recent models I have are Jetbeam MK-II (had 2 of them) and Sofirn C01S (around 10 of them). Both models can’t be reliably switched to moon mode. Every now and then they jump to a higher level.
Oh ! NICE!!! Is the reflector ok with its big P4 opening ? The LH351 is quite smaller.
Oh yes, thread play. I’ve had a couple of lights like that. If it drives you nut, you can correct the situation with a bit of teflon tape on the threads. Just leave a bit of bare threads to make contact. Moon mode on a C01S ? Do you mean the first low level ? I’ve never seen or heard about a moon mode equipped C01S…
thread play is increased as the O ring wears, I agree teflon tape works, if a new O ring is not available
another thing that makes twisties skip modes unreliably, is excess lubricant that bridges the body tube to the driver… wiping out the excess lube will make a twisty that skips modes, more reliable.
for me, one of the problems w twisties, is that they turn on in pocket, due to lateral pressure, unless I unscrew extra… (this is also caused by thread play)
I no longer carry twisties, for all those reasons… Imo a mechanical tailswitch is the most reliable, and most muggle friendly option. It takes more explaining to teach twisty use, than clicky use.
agree
Might be thread play in the first place, but I think the mechanics can’t warrant a steady contact. It _will _happen. Even click frog systems are usually debounced in software. Some HP calcs allow adjusting a timeout IIRC.
Don’t know if it is too hard to implement something like this. Some lights have a running timer despite being unpowered by the battery.
Edit: Yes, sure, the C01S has a low mode only. Bit different with the C01R.