There was a limited run of ARC AA’s. Rare and those who still have ’em will probably never let them go.
I still have and pocket rotate my EZ-AA, great light. Here’s a size comparison FWIW.
Personally, I think there are a number of good compact AA lights. I think the Skilhunt E2A is one of them - good build and finish, simple 3-mode with mechanical tailcap, great CRI, and capable of draining AA batteries low.
How’s about just an AA version of the Sofirn C01 - compact well built. high-CRI 5mm, encapsulated and highly affordable. I can’t understand why Sofirm hasn’t already put one out, given how well received the C01’s were.
Yes! You are right about the ARC AA, I now remember.
About the EZ AA: I’m glad to see some people remember them. You know what ? I also still use mine, it’s the rarer W version with a warm P4 in it. I also still have and use an EZ CR2.
I also think there is a market for C01 and C01S in AA version…
The most recent models I have are Jetbeam MK-II (had 2 of them) and Sofirn C01S (around 10 of them). Both models can’t be reliably switched to moon mode. Every now and then they jump to a higher level.
Oh yes, thread play. I’ve had a couple of lights like that. If it drives you nut, you can correct the situation with a bit of teflon tape on the threads. Just leave a bit of bare threads to make contact. Moon mode on a C01S ? Do you mean the first low level ? I’ve never seen or heard about a moon mode equipped C01S…
thread play is increased as the O ring wears, I agree teflon tape works, if a new O ring is not available
another thing that makes twisties skip modes unreliably, is excess lubricant that bridges the body tube to the driver… wiping out the excess lube will make a twisty that skips modes, more reliable.
for me, one of the problems w twisties, is that they turn on in pocket, due to lateral pressure, unless I unscrew extra… (this is also caused by thread play)
I no longer carry twisties, for all those reasons… Imo a mechanical tailswitch is the most reliable, and most muggle friendly option. It takes more explaining to teach twisty use, than clicky use.
Might be thread play in the first place, but I think the mechanics can’t warrant a steady contact. It _will _happen. Even click frog systems are usually debounced in software. Some HP calcs allow adjusting a timeout IIRC.
Don’t know if it is too hard to implement something like this. Some lights have a running timer despite being unpowered by the battery.
Edit: Yes, sure, the C01S has a low mode only. Bit different with the C01R.
there is just no way you can produce anything cheaper and not lose money on it. especially with specks you want. it is just not realistic in todays economy.
Yeah. What are people expecting? 20$US is perfectly fine, especially if shipping is free.
I’d rather pay 20$US for a Sofirn SP10 HE and have the components always stay the same and have the production relatively sustainable so small upgrades can be performed over time.
The combination seems to play well together. IIRC using a 1.6mm MCPCB seems to have provided enough lift for a good focus. Actually the hotspot might be larger than original now, go figure.
I have 3 of them so they are one of my favorites. I am not a fan of twisty UI’s, I quit carrying lights with twist UIs back when I had a Fenix E11. I like lights that I can use with one hand.
