The most recent models I have are Jetbeam MK-II (had 2 of them) and Sofirn C01S (around 10 of them). Both models can’t be reliably switched to moon mode. Every now and then they jump to a higher level.
Oh yes, thread play. I’ve had a couple of lights like that. If it drives you nut, you can correct the situation with a bit of teflon tape on the threads. Just leave a bit of bare threads to make contact. Moon mode on a C01S ? Do you mean the first low level ? I’ve never seen or heard about a moon mode equipped C01S…
thread play is increased as the O ring wears, I agree teflon tape works, if a new O ring is not available
another thing that makes twisties skip modes unreliably, is excess lubricant that bridges the body tube to the driver… wiping out the excess lube will make a twisty that skips modes, more reliable.
for me, one of the problems w twisties, is that they turn on in pocket, due to lateral pressure, unless I unscrew extra… (this is also caused by thread play)
I no longer carry twisties, for all those reasons… Imo a mechanical tailswitch is the most reliable, and most muggle friendly option. It takes more explaining to teach twisty use, than clicky use.
Might be thread play in the first place, but I think the mechanics can’t warrant a steady contact. It _will _happen. Even click frog systems are usually debounced in software. Some HP calcs allow adjusting a timeout IIRC.
Don’t know if it is too hard to implement something like this. Some lights have a running timer despite being unpowered by the battery.
Edit: Yes, sure, the C01S has a low mode only. Bit different with the C01R.
there is just no way you can produce anything cheaper and not lose money on it. especially with specks you want. it is just not realistic in todays economy.
Yeah. What are people expecting? 20$US is perfectly fine, especially if shipping is free.
I’d rather pay 20$US for a Sofirn SP10 HE and have the components always stay the same and have the production relatively sustainable so small upgrades can be performed over time.
The combination seems to play well together. IIRC using a 1.6mm MCPCB seems to have provided enough lift for a good focus. Actually the hotspot might be larger than original now, go figure.
I have 3 of them so they are one of my favorites. I am not a fan of twisty UI’s, I quit carrying lights with twist UIs back when I had a Fenix E11. I like lights that I can use with one hand.
Nothing wrong about the Tool AA, it was just a question of price but seeing it for $12 on Ali, this one is a winner. If I want to be a nit-picky, I would indeed say it has too many modes for a simple emergency light ( k.i.s.s. = keep it straight simple).
To summarize it, my idea was really an C01S in AA format. All the good things from this light but with up to 3 times the runtime sounded fantastic in my mind. Also, if Sofirn can sell the C01S for $6,99 (as it is right now on their web site), I don’t see why the same light just a bit bigger could not be sold for $10-12 ?
Lumintop Tool AA also has an optional magnetic tail cap that can be used in place of the switch tail cap which would make it a twisty light, if that’s what you would prefer.
I would say that “vampire” lights are the ones that can drain a battery down to its usable limit!
Joule thief, cockroach, vampire are some of the names given to such lights.
The Sofirn C01 is one of those, in which you can use a cell virtually to 0V.
The cell currently in my C01 is at .65 volt. It will start and run, but gradually dims as expected although still usable in a dark house even via ceiling bounce. If I turn it off, i must wait for a few minutes before it'll start again. I use it most mornings when I first get up so I don't trip over a dog while wandering into the kitchen to turn on the coffee pot. I check the cell every two or three days for signs of puking.