So, I have been using the 573 de-domed and love it! But a friend at work fell in love with the pure white of the TS10 at 5800k and very neutral Duv. So, I built him a T2 with one of my 5700k 573’s, but left the dome on. When I first powered it on I assumed that I had damaged the dome because visually it had a somewhat -Duv, not extreme but it was there and it felt to warm. Measured with my Opple it came in around the mid 5400k range and indeed a slight -Duv.
So, is the normal for the sm573?
this domed 5700K Opple tested at 5800K and duv –0.0012
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this dedomed 5700K tested at 4000K and duv –0.0042
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Finally, I got around to testing the 519a for myself. I replaced the emitters on my FWAA Ti from Nichia 219b sw45k to Nichia 519a sm573 DeDomed. Here are the results:
sw45k:
Max Lumens: 1260
ANSI Lumens: 424
CCT: 4549
CRI: 93.9
Duv: –0.0073
sm573DD:
Max Lumens: 1748
ANSI Lumens: 447
CCT:3999
CRI: 96.6
Duv: –0.0009
The tint is really nice:
Here is a comparative Full Runtime Chart on Turbo:
And here are the first 10 minutes, for greater detail:
Thank you very much for the detailed test data
sw45k:
Initial Max Lumens: 30% lower than the 519a
Lumens at 30 seconds: 5% lower than the 519a
both LEDs drop below 200 lumens in the first 40 seconds and then rebound slightly to sustain about 200 Lumens.
You are welcome jon_slider.
Please notice that as the dedomed 519a starts off at a higher output and yet slightly outlasts the 219b at high output. If one was to start the two emitter options at the same output level, the 519a would obviously sustain the output for longer. Similarly, if they were put at any level of output, as long as it is the same, the 519a will sustain it longer.
can you help define “longer”.
For example, how much longer is the 519a runtime, at the sustainable 200 lumens, than the sw45k?
Sorry jon_slider, I did not do any further tests.
My order of 519a leds just came in!
Now I just gotta decide what to try them in. And experiment with dedoming them.
Last night I installed a 4500K 519a in an Eagtac D25a on the stock aluminum star with stock driver. Not bad. Output was low, which was expected with this driver and no dedoming, but tint and CRI looked great.
Today I tried installing a 5000K 519a into my Tool Ti. This time I dedomed it. WOW!!! Good output, nice color temp, rosy tint, great CRI, dedoming was super-easy!!! 
I can see why this LED is so popular now.
So on these measure stock 3500k look already nice and quite rosy, there are others domed CCT from Convoy like it or even better?
Please excuse the interruption from a first post newly, but I’ve read this entire thread and am wowed at the scientific knowledge of this group.
I wanted to know about the 519A 5700K dedomed Noctigon KR4 that I just received today and took it out in the swamp next to my house to see what I ordered
I told Hank I wanted a floody bright light with good throw while wandering in Swamp at night.
Hank suggested a KR4 with 519A and 5700K and dedomed it.
All I can say (at 80 years old) is that I’m stunned at the fantastic color rendition and throw of such a nice flood beam.
I don’t know anything about the charts you show but I can attest to how well it works for this old man .
Thank you all for your persistence in chasing perfection.
I’m humbled by such erudite discussion.
Olight S1R Baton II with Nichia 519a sm573 DeDomed and 15 Degree Pebbled Optic. 650 Lumen,3800K, CRI 97, Duv –0.0087.
Olight S2R Baton II Peace with Nichia 519a sm353 DeDomed and 30 Degree Pebbled Optic. 550lm Lumen, 2700K, CRI 96, Duv –0.0022.
Olight Warrior Mini Autumn 2 with Nichia 519a sm453 DeDomed and 30 Degree Pebbled Optic.707lm, 3200K, CRI 97, Duv –0.0055.
Beautiful! Congrats on the Olight mods 
how do you get the bezel out without damaging the host?
and was the stock output really 1000 lumens before the LED swap?
Thank you :)
The bezel is the easiest to take out on the S1R Baton II. I use a box cutter blade and a hammer. You need to be patient and careful not to damage the coating, but it is not too hard to do.
The S2R Baton II and the Warrior Mini though are another story, as the bezel is internal and there is no external lip for the razor to go in and widen.
Glad to hear it is working well for you. All the theoretical discussion can take on a life of its own that leads to endless comparing of measurements and beams on white walls, but it’s when the light proves its worth in actual use that it earns its place.
admittedly, i haven't fully done my research and am just looking for an informational handout.
i have a D4V2 with 519A 3500K dedome and love it!
for someone in the USA, where would you recommend buying a 519A 3500K to put in a ZL SC64c LE?
so far i found:
https://jlhawaii808.com/products/nichia-519a-r9080-bare-raw-led-emitter?variant=43038159765737
but sold out
i also could have sworn i saw them on mtnelectronics (on MPCB) before, but i can't find it now. maybe it's sold out as well.
can someone please save me from harvesting one from my D4V2?
Convoy AliExpress
You can buy them from Hank (intl-outdoor.com, you may have to email if it’s not listed on the site) or Simon’s aliexpress