Thanks for sharing. I actually did some quick test by just setting PWM from 8 bit to 11 bit (PWM1_TOP to 2047). Level 1 becomes as visually dim as level 1 on my SP10 pro without any visible flicker. So dynamic PWM definitely will improve this light a lot.
It will be lower, but PWM will be slower. Noticable? That’s up to your eyes.
I’ve tried with this dynamic PWM config which works fine for me (with limited tests)
level_calc.py 5.01 2 150 7135 1 0.1 150 FET 1 10 1200 —pwm dyn:64:4096:255
16384 doesn’t look good to my eyes but maybe it’s just me.
The lows are comparable with SP10 pro! I haven’t experimented with dynamic underclocking settings though. So far I’m happy so I’ll use this setting for a few days and see.
Received Red 4000K TS10 w Red Aux, ordered 6/20
It is the correct 4000K CCT, and the Tint is nice. Color rendering seems great too. The Aux LEDs still turn on with the main LEDs, the firmware is not updated. I dont mind the Aux on w the main LED, and did not expect the light to have the LVP patch yet.
I suggest Not using Aux on High 24/7,
there is no LVP on the Aux lights,
if using High Aux 24/7 suggest use a protected battery to prevent overdischarge
The TS10 is a cute little light, the beam focus and profile is very nice, and the Tint and CRI are Great on both CCT offered so far. I like the host w centered waistline, and the switch resistance and feel is good imo.
Thanks for that update, jon_slider!
I’m relieved to see the 4000k tint on your example. 
Greaattt….mine is most definitely NOT 4000k…now that it’s night time, it is exactly the same color as my 5800k….crap.
I wonder why FW* and KR* lights work different. Are there any disadvantages with Wurkkos design?
KRx have a spring for the signal tube/ driver contact, the FWAA also have some spring load at the tail, hence why they don’t have the contact issues the FWxA have.
With Wurkkos design the outer ring of the driver can’t be GND, it’s a bit inconvenient driver design wise (less usable space, fine for FET+1, less so for switching drivers).
Physical lockout does not work for me.
I tried to lock out by unscrewing the head until the Aux lights turn off (I have them set to On Low).
When I press the tailbutton the main LEDs still come on.
a couple more observations about defaults
- Light arrives in Advanced w a floor of 1/150 (0.2 lumens), ceiling seems to be 120/150 (600 lumens), turbo is 1000 lumens (my meter reads low). Aux are set to High, I changed them to Low. Memory is set to 100 lumens, with >10 <15 minute last mode memory (hybrid memory). I changed the manual memory to 1/150.
2. In Simple UI floor is 1 lumen, ceiling is 150/150. I changed ceiling to 100/150 (285 lumens), and floor to 1/150 (0.2 lumens)
They come on (low and flickering) because some ground current leaks through the switch pin, but they come off once the button is released. KR1 is the same when locked out.
got it, yes, the switch becomes momentary when the head is unscrewed enough to turn off Aux. Thank you 
observation
I tried 4C lockout on my Red TS10, it changes the Aux lights to blinking. (Hate Blinkies… must Kill)… ok, in advanced, in lockout, 7C controls the aux setting… so I Win, NOOOO Blinking.
Begin Anti Blinking Rant:
One thing I REALLY Like about the TS10 is it has
NO Blinking in the Ramp
Unfortunately, for me, both the FWAA and the latest SP10 Pro have Blinking Ramps… Hate it.
There should be an Epileptic Setting… Nooo Ramping Blinkies (ask me how I really feel about UnRequested Blinkies in the Ramp, that cannot be turned off by the operator…)
End Rant
walmart listing is now 25$ w/ battery (it’s still out of stock.)
haven’t seen it on amazon yet. hope it’s around that price too, i’ll buy it from there and if i get a wrong tint i’ll be able to send it back with amazon returns.
been interesting to see the updates. thanks for the information everyone.
Got my 4000K TS10s today. Very nice. I like this color temp better than the cool white version, though both are nice.
I also got the 4000k I’ve been waiting for today. The color temperature and tint are very nice in my opinion. I chose the red anodizing and it’s attractive and vibrant. I hope to someday learn to update the version of Anduril myself.
Comparing the anodizing between the 3 available colors, the silver anodizing feels slightly rougher in texture. It’s a bit like the white anodizing used on the Emisar D4.
This makes a little less slippery compared to the red or black anodizing.
Photo from Facebook…
Yay, that looks awesome!
Mine in silver and 4000 K arrived today. The tint is amazing!
I’ve played a bit with dynamic PWM and got a really low low with usable lower steps. I’ve limited the PWM top to 2048 as higher values didn’t make much difference, but reduced the frequency unnecessarily. I had some trouble with visible steps from dynamic underclocking. Also it seems like the 7135 drops out of regulation at low levels because the pulse got too short. Will check next days with my oscilloscope and share the config file afterwards.
What device / adapter to update fw? 0.04 lm wow
It’s Atmel’s UDPI programming. More info about it in my thread here. Programmers for it aren’t too common. You essentially need a common USB to Serial TTL adapter and then a pogo-pin adapter to mate up to the flashing pads. I make (and sell) some but shipping from the US is expensive. Check with thefreeman as he’s in Europe and might be able to help out.
1 Thank
Thx a lot !!!