【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

KRx have a spring for the signal tube/ driver contact, the FWAA also have some spring load at the tail, hence why they don’t have the contact issues the FWxA have.
With Wurkkos design the outer ring of the driver can’t be GND, it’s a bit inconvenient driver design wise (less usable space, fine for FET+1, less so for switching drivers).

Physical lockout does not work for me.

I tried to lock out by unscrewing the head until the Aux lights turn off (I have them set to On Low).

When I press the tailbutton the main LEDs still come on.

a couple more observations about defaults

  1. Light arrives in Advanced w a floor of 1/150 (0.2 lumens), ceiling seems to be 120/150 (600 lumens), turbo is 1000 lumens (my meter reads low). Aux are set to High, I changed them to Low. Memory is set to 100 lumens, with >10 <15 minute last mode memory (hybrid memory). I changed the manual memory to 1/150.

2. In Simple UI floor is 1 lumen, ceiling is 150/150. I changed ceiling to 100/150 (285 lumens), and floor to 1/150 (0.2 lumens)

They come on (low and flickering) because some ground current leaks through the switch pin, but they come off once the button is released. KR1 is the same when locked out.

got it, yes, the switch becomes momentary when the head is unscrewed enough to turn off Aux. Thank you :beer:

observation
I tried 4C lockout on my Red TS10, it changes the Aux lights to blinking. (Hate Blinkies… must Kill)… ok, in advanced, in lockout, 7C controls the aux setting… so I Win, NOOOO Blinking.

Begin Anti Blinking Rant:
One thing I REALLY Like about the TS10 is it has
NO Blinking in the Ramp
Unfortunately, for me, both the FWAA and the latest SP10 Pro have Blinking Ramps… Hate it.

There should be an Epileptic Setting… Nooo Ramping Blinkies (ask me how I really feel about UnRequested Blinkies in the Ramp, that cannot be turned off by the operator…)
End Rant

walmart listing is now 25$ w/ battery (it’s still out of stock.)
haven’t seen it on amazon yet. hope it’s around that price too, i’ll buy it from there and if i get a wrong tint i’ll be able to send it back with amazon returns.
been interesting to see the updates. thanks for the information everyone.

Got my 4000K TS10s today. Very nice. I like this color temp better than the cool white version, though both are nice.

I also got the 4000k I’ve been waiting for today. The color temperature and tint are very nice in my opinion. I chose the red anodizing and it’s attractive and vibrant. I hope to someday learn to update the version of Anduril myself.

Comparing the anodizing between the 3 available colors, the silver anodizing feels slightly rougher in texture. It’s a bit like the white anodizing used on the Emisar D4.

This makes a little less slippery compared to the red or black anodizing.

Photo from Facebook…

Yay, that looks awesome!

Mine in silver and 4000 K arrived today. The tint is amazing!

I’ve played a bit with dynamic PWM and got a really low low with usable lower steps. I’ve limited the PWM top to 2048 as higher values didn’t make much difference, but reduced the frequency unnecessarily. I had some trouble with visible steps from dynamic underclocking. Also it seems like the 7135 drops out of regulation at low levels because the pulse got too short. Will check next days with my oscilloscope and share the config file afterwards.

What device / adapter to update fw? 0.04 lm wow

It’s Atmel’s UDPI programming. More info about it in my thread here. Programmers for it aren’t too common. You essentially need a common USB to Serial TTL adapter and then a pogo-pin adapter to mate up to the flashing pads. I make (and sell) some but shipping from the US is expensive. Check with thefreeman as he’s in Europe and might be able to help out.

1 Thank

Thx a lot !!!

thanks for the Brass TS10 prototype photo… Maybe they will also make a Red Copper version.

The Chinese word for Copper (Tóng) includes Brass

White Copper: Bái Tóng, German Silver, Alpaca, Copper Zinc Nickel
Yellow Copper: Huáng Tóng, Brass, Copper Zinc
Red Copper: Hóng Tóng, Pure Copper
Purple Copper: Zǐ Tóng, Bornite, Copper Iron Sulfide
Green Copper: Qīng Tóng, Bronze, Copper Nickel

Great modding tip Lightbringer!

Hopefully I’ll never need to fine-tune an SMD resistor this way, but good to know that it’s possible. :+1:

Yep, I’m wonderful. :laughing:

Terry, thanks for going to the effort to address concerns! Do you know if the light was tested with H10 while using turbo repeatedly? I think the previous events/concerns had more to do with excessive heat caused by continuously forcing the light into turbo mode after it had stepped down, so the light was running hotter than it usually would, for longer periods than what is shown in the video. I’ve been using mine with H10 and trying to keep it hot, but not excessively, and so far so good…if it fails I’ll just consider it a donation to science. :slight_smile:

Well, just what I had expected. :frowning:

I used this ramp:
level_calc.py 7.01 2 150 7135 1 0.5 130 FET 1 10 1200 —pwm dyn:64:2048:255

First, the lowest level can be really low. I mean, ZebraLight low. Problem: It’s all in the undefined behavior region of the 7135 because the pulse length is just too short.

Here is an example ramping through levels 1 to ~45:

Level 2 is darker than level 1 because the frequency is doubled (dynamic underclocking, quarter speed below 2). There is another jump from level 4 to 5, again dynamic underclocking (half speed below 5). Then it starts increasing, but in an undefined ramp shape. At level 45 the 7135 starts turning fully on (maybe a bit earlier because my light sensor is too slow).

What’s next? I might try to start at level 16 where the slope changes. That might be the point where the error of my light sensor is most influencing. Or it’s just the non-linearity of the 7135. From there I might add one or two “special” levels with ultra low moonlight and from level three upwards it will be lot brighter, but more reliable. Not sure what to do with dynamic underclocking…

Anyone with an idea how this could be set up in a nice way? ToyKeeper, gchart, thefreeman?

So, now that Wurkkos has found out the emitters actually shouldn't die with a high drain cell, is a linear driver still on the table or nah? Cause I just want that linear driver for slightly higher efficiency and that smooth, smooth ramp. 7135 also seems to be somewhat unstable and it varies from one part to the next... I haven't bought any TS10 yet because I was waiting for the linear driver upgrade :/

Nice test! I’m a bit torn about be dynamic underclocking. We same a few mA of current draw from the reduced clock speed, but at the cost of slower PWM and some minor inconsistency in the ramp output. It’s all in the trade-offs. So what do we value more?

  • Lower lows with lower power consumption but slower PWM?
  • Lower lows with higher power consumption but faster PWM?
  • Higher lows with lower power consumption and faster PWM?