Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

[Firelight2]

I stand corrected. I thought they were triangle-cut threads, but I didn’t look close enough. They’re actually very small square-cut threads.

In any event, both the SP10v3 and SP10 Pro have the same threads.

[daogiahieu]

Firelight2 Limsup;
Thank you guys, that picture help to see very clearly.

[Alen]

I would buy this light with Nichia 519A installed and without any type of blink on the ramp. Hope this will be correct soon

[Correllux]

@daogiahieu

Firelight2 Limsup;
Thank you guys, that picture help to see very clearly.

These are not square cut threads - photos above are not sufficient to really tell, though. They are trapezoidal threads with the crests maybe a little flatter/wider than some. Not all that different than what’s on the Convoy T2/T3 and many other lights.

It can be tricky to see these clearly sometimes especially if they are shiny from grease or have direct light on them. Mildly backlit against a light background and with a low power magnifier you can clearly see that they are not true square cut at all. But that’s fine…they’re well machined and finished, feel great and work very smoothly, cap goes back on effortlessly, which is what’s important.

[Deluminator]

At least the thread’s fell like there gonna last on the sp10pro. A sp21pro that I bought, only catches on the last turn.

[jon_slider]

@Deluminator

A sp21pro that I bought, only catches on the last turn.

With the stock 33.9mm long battery, my SC21 Pro has more than just the last turn.

Are you maybe using a longer battery?

[Correllux]

@Correllux

@Correllux

@SammysHP

@Correllux

Supreme, do you have a multimeter? Most of them have a DC 10A range these days. That’s all ya need for simple stuff like this.

You can’t measure the current with a multimeter. It adds resistance and the current will be much lower than without. If you measure 1.5 A with your multimeter, it might be 2.5 A or more without it. Always use a clamp meter and thick wire to get realistic results.

True, burden inside and quality of leads, but depends on the meter. At low amps the meter I’ve got seems to do just fine. Usually over 2A or so I will switch to the clamp but thus far they have been very close to each other at lower amps. I don’t know about cheaper meters on the market in that regard. I don’t write this stuff down but I don’t think I was ever close to an entire full amp off between instruments when compared…seems like it was a couple tenths or less depending. I’ll do both when I get the H10s just for kicks.

Well my H10 cells are going to be delayed, so I compared measurements with my meter and the Uni-T 210E clamp on an L10 cell. Had to look up my burden voltage on the meter and it’s not bad, but I was pleased to discover that I can force the range (instead of auto-ranging) and drop the burden to an almost negligible level (which is only one part of the equation of course). Theoretically it should give me about .04V per amp, so we’re looking at about a tenth of a volt loss, perhaps less since this is at the bottom of that range/shunt. On turbo/top of ramp on that cell I got about 2.1A with the meter (using auto-range where the burden is higher it gave me about 1.94A this time, different cell than before). With the clamp and solid 12ga copper I got about 2.3A, sometimes 2.4A if I could press harder against the tube for better contact. Using 10ga and 8ga fine stranded wire didn’t improve anything, plus those were difficult to apply in such a small area with a very thin tube wall. So…not a huge difference, but not insignificant either…but this is still tail cap measuring anyway. I’m good with it. Looking forward to see what the H10 delivers and if it’s appreciably more. This does make me want to revisit some lights and remeasure them…and compare at the emitter, too. And doing the math, it’s clear that the burden voltage is a bigger problem than I first realized when it comes to finer work with lower voltage power supplies (not flashlights so much). Thanks for the check and inspiration to experiment more.

Forgot to post back about the H10 cells. Not getting much more from them but the one of the four gives a little more oomph. With the clamp I got a max of 2.5A and that one cell gave 2.6A, if the meter can be trusted there.

Also received the green magnetic tailcap. Nicely done, magnet feels on the weaker side, probably just N35. It has a larger/wider spring in there compared to the stock eared tail cap. I tried to remove the magnet with a long acetone soak and couldn’t get it to budge so I’ll likely break it out…have some N52 1/2”x3/32” coming in the mail which should add a couple pounds of pull or more.

[shirnask]

@Correllux

@daogiahieu

Firelight2 Limsup;
Thank you guys, that picture help to see very clearly.

These are not square cut threads - photos above are not sufficient to really tell, though. They are trapezoidal threads with the crests maybe a little flatter/wider than some. Not all that different than what’s on the Convoy T2/T3 and many other lights.

It can be tricky to see these clearly sometimes especially if they are shiny from grease or have direct light on them. Mildly backlit against a light background and with a low power magnifier you can clearly see that they are not true square cut at all. But that’s fine…they’re well machined and finished, feel great and work very smoothly, cap goes back on effortlessly, which is what’s important.

Well, this is the best picture I can get with my old busted not so tough camera, but I still can’t really see these as trapezoidal threads……

[Kona_G]

The threads are called “Acme” the design is stronger than std v-cut threads. Kudos to Sofirn for using an upgraded thread. Now, hopefully they’ll correct that dam blink at the top!

[jon_slider]

@Kona G

that dam blink at the top!

I feel the same way.

Blinking during Ramping is an Anduril “feature”, not specific to the SP10 Pro.

My FWAA has the same feature, and it really Bugs Me. I prefer my TS10 and SC21 Pro, because they do NOT blink during ramping.

imo ALL blinkies should be Optional.
Right now there is No Option for a user to Select to turn off Blinking during Ramping.

[Correllux]

Hmm. Shirnask’s pic on the red light has threads that look slightly different from my green SP10 Pro…closer to Acme (which is not a true square cut…better in some ways, at least from a machining standpoint) but they do not look quite the same as the US made Acme threads I have on hand to compare with, for whatever that’s worth. Very similar to what’s on the Convoy M1, WildTrail WT3M, Wurkkos FC11, Sofirn IF22/22A, and most Rofis lights. Wonder if they changed things up, perhaps different machines or locations. At any rate…well done threads, one of the few that are a pleasure to use with good feel and fit and not too much spring pressure to overcome when you start it on.

[jon_slider]

I have finally succeeded in learning how to reflash my SP10 Pro

@gchart

1. Download

thank you for all your help

I flashed that file, and like the 04-14 version from Sofirn, it has a Blink at top of ramp

is there a Hex file with NO Blink at top of ramp?

[gchart]

@jon_slider

I have finally succeeded in learning how to reflash my SP10 Pro

@gchart

1. Download

thank you for all your help

I flashed that file, and like the 04-14 version from Sofirn, it has a Blink at top of ramp

is there a Hex file with NO Blink at top of ramp?

Great! No, but I’ll cook one up for you here shortly and will post it up.

EDIT: here ya go, try this one

[jon_slider]

thank you very much for the Hex file, it works! no more Ramping Blink!

[BruisedMonkey]

@thefreeman

@BruisedMonkey

@thefreeman

Ok, I already ordered 15 boards and I’ll order some other necessary parts, I already have a few micro USB to TTL boards, maybe I should get some USB-C ones next.

@gchart

PS - the page on Oshpark has the BOM

You mentioned that heartshrink is optional, but in any case some insulation isn’t since touching the RX connection can make the programming fail in my experience.

Did you end up making these and have any left? I’m interested [UK]. Thanks

I made a few, need to finish this batch.

I thought I had premade dupont wires but nope, only connectors and they’re a pain to make in such quantity so I soldered the TTL and key boards together, it might be better like this anyway. (3 solder pads were in front of each other and for GND I added a wire, next time I’ll get a key with proper pad placements for these boards). Ah I also didn’t have heatshrink of the right diameter :person_facepalming: , that said about the thing I mentionned it’s not really problematic since with the 2 boards together it’s easy to hold it without touching UDPI.

These look good. I’m still interested whenever you have time to complete the batch. Thanks

[contactcr]

Picked up a Red SP10 Pro now that they are on Amazon (US). I think this is the most threadlocker i’ve seen on a single light ever. Probably 90% coverage of every thread all the way around. I thought I was going to change the anodizing color with the amount of hot air I was applying.

[jon_slider]

@contactcr

Picked up a Red SP10 Pro now that they are on Amazon (US). I think this is the most threadlocker i’ve seen on a single light ever.

congrats on getting it open… what LED are you going with?

This SP10 Pro was super easy, no threadlocker at all:

.

[Firelight2]

@contactcr

Picked up a Red SP10 Pro now that they are on Amazon (US). I think this is the most threadlocker i’ve seen on a single light ever. Probably 90% coverage of every thread all the way around. I thought I was going to change the anodizing color with the amount of hot air I was applying.

Worst I’ve seen was on a Fenix light.

They used so much threadlocker that it filled 100% of the threads with excess squeezing out on both sides. It was red threadlocker too. Almost broke my pliers unscrewing the pill and this on a one AAA sized light.

[contactcr]

@jon_slider

@contactcr

Picked up a Red SP10 Pro now that they are on Amazon (US). I think this is the most threadlocker i’ve seen on a single light ever.

congrats on getting it open… what LED are you going with?

I was going to defer to you on this one. You are like the beam connoisseur after all. DUV/output changes aside what do you think has the cleanest beam? I suspect it will be a short range light so whatever has the least rings/artifacts I suppose.

[jon_slider]

I find the SP10 Pro reflector has a pretty fuzzy overall profile, and is very forgiving of LED size… it works both domed and dedomed w 519a… both have pros and cons, larger round hotspot, or tighter throwyer hotspot…

but dedoming creates not only warmth, it pushes the Tint DUV down to about –0.0040, whereas the Domed 519a is much closer to the BBL…

the two photos above show the domed and dedomed beam profiles, as seen by my iPhone, which makes them look worse than in real life

here is the stock LH351d beam, for reference, it is no better, on camera

they all have sort of a secondary brighter transition, between hotspot and spill, and a shadow ring before an outer boundary ring…

but in real life, I think if you look at your stock beam, any LED you choose will be as good or better… our eyes are much more forgiving than the camera, in actual use, the SP10 Beam is not as varied across the spill as it looks in photos.

the SP10 Pro reflector is sort of short and wide… not particularly effective at focusing a hotspot… which makes it versatile, and compatible with both large domes or small…

The SC21 Pro has a Much better beam focus… recommended… for beam quality

I suggest you install a domed 519a, see for yourself, and then dedome it… to know first hand… bear in mind they drop about 20% in Kelvin Color when dedoming…

of the 517a Ive tried, the two standouts are the domed 5700K (super clean, not green daylight white), and the dedomed 4500K (makes a nice 3500K), but I recall you like neutral tint duv, so domed 519a may suit you best… it is similar to E21a…

here are my domed and dedomed 519a pairs:
.

I get my 519a from azhu btw… or there is a telegram based group buy from Clemence…