【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

Nice test! I’m a bit torn about be dynamic underclocking. We same a few mA of current draw from the reduced clock speed, but at the cost of slower PWM and some minor inconsistency in the ramp output. It’s all in the trade-offs. So what do we value more?

  • Lower lows with lower power consumption but slower PWM?
  • Lower lows with higher power consumption but faster PWM?
  • Higher lows with lower power consumption and faster PWM?

yes…

fwiw, the floor on TS10 and SC21 Pro and FWAA is 0.2 lumens

the floor on the SP10 Pro is 0.01 lumens.
Does that have higher power consumption but faster PWM?

Just curious. I know that much of this discussion is about just seeing what can be done with the software, but of what use is having an ultra low output.
I personally find that the 0.2 lumen output is pretty useless. Even at night from sleep with fully dark adapted vision. I have set the floor on my TS10 to be level 5 of 150 which is about as low as I can go and still get enough light to see anything. Just a sincere question…

Maybe this question would be a good one for a dedicated thread ??

For me the 0.2 lumen output of the SC21 Pro is too much in the middle of the night with dark adapted vision. It takes very little light to completely disrupt my sleep and I have arranged to sleep in near total darkness. The SP10 Pro at 0.01 lumens is actually more light than I need to get to the bathroom.

OK, I think I made some progress. Problem is that we should keep the pulse time above ~10 µs if we want to use the 7135 in the proper region. This can be achieved only if we increase the start PWM value or underclock the MCU long enough.

This is my configuration from my previous test:

As you can see, many low levels have too short pulses and will cause non-linearity.

With some ramp tuning, starting with PWM 10 and increasing frequency divider to about 12/22 it looks better, but I haven’t tested it on the flashlight yet. Sadly I don’t have more time today (and maybe until next weekend).

Btw. the stock configuration is deep in the non-linear region as well. This affects most if not all 7135 lights using Anduril.

I wish to order a silver 4000k but it is OOS everywhere. Anyone know when it will be restocked?

Wurkkos Terry wrote:

A great job!!!

For me: Lower lows with higher power consumption but faster PWM.

I’ve just received mine today, must have been close to the end of the second batch. The very pale silver and cyan aux lights look great. I’m just wondering if a cooler white LED might have complemented the icy look of the light better?

I just got my red 5.8kK TS10 yesterday. This is my first tail e-switch light, and I have a question.

What, exactly, does loosening the head do in this type of light? My aux lights slowly ramp off, and the tail switch activates these weird, random momentary ramping (sometimes flashing) modes. I can’t find them on any Andúril ui chart.

Loosening the tailcap disconnects the inner tube and disables main power.

However, the outer-body is still connected to the head which powers the switch channel. Anduril 2 does weird stuff when only the switch channel is connected to power. I think the stuff its doing is intentional, but I’m not sure what it’s for.

see 【TS10V2 Ti available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10 titanium version will available on 23th,Sep - #604 by thefreeman

and

I can’t loosen the tailcap on mine. It’s too small and too tight. I don’t have a strap wrench that small, either.

With the head loosened enough that the aux lights go off, everything seems momentary on the e-switch, so I guess that’s safe enough for pocket carry. I’ll probably try without that at first, since it doesn’t seem that likely to activate in my pocket, anyway.

Here is a relevant comment from Toykeeper.

When the head is loosened, main power is disconnected. However, small amount of power through the switch can power up the light. In this state, the light is in reset mode. If you keep pressing the switch while the main power is disconnected, it will begin reset procedure after blinking for about 3 seconds.

If you loosen the head of TS10, your light will not turn on (and drain the battery). But it can reset the light if pressed more than 3 seconds.

I have seen this behavior in KR4 and TS10, but NOT in FW3A. My FW3A switch is completely disabled when I loosen the head.

Hmm. Mine does the ramp up while blinking, but then it just shuts off when it gets to the top of the ramp. If I let it ramp all the way up in blinking mode, then the next time I hit the button, it ramps up with no blinking and stays on at the top of the ramp, but isn’t anywhere near full power. Then if let off the switch, the next time it ramps up blinking. And it just alternates between those two, but only if I let it ramp all the way to the top in blinking ramp.

I don’t know what the reset is supposed to do, but mine came set to muggle mode with the aux leds on high in standby. I’ve changed to advanced mode and set the aux leds to low, and after a long time playing with the head loosened mode, neither of those have reset yet.

When I reset my TS10 (loosen head and keep pressing the switch until ramp ends), it was reset to advanced mode with low AUX. I know mine was reset because my memory and ramp settings were gone.

When I loosen the head and keep pressing the switch right after, mine also ramps up to about 30 lumens. If I keep pressing the switch the light eventually dims to the lowest level. Also, the light turn off when I release the switch. If I press the switch after that I am in the reset mode. I am guessing this may be due to the electricity remaining in the circuit.

sounds like loosening the head is a BAD Idea.

It has pros and cons. It prevents accidental activation, but risks resetting the light. The risk of resetting the light is quite low, because the switch has to be depressed for more than three seconds. On the other hand, if you carry the light without loosening the head, there is relatively high risk of enabling turbo. I think double clicking is much more likely than a three-second long press.

I like to loosen the head of my KR4 to prevent accidental activation by the way.

totally respect your choice

what are some advantages for you, of unscrewing the head, instead of using normal 4C lockout?