【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

Wurkkos Terry wrote:

A great job!!!

For me: Lower lows with higher power consumption but faster PWM.

I’ve just received mine today, must have been close to the end of the second batch. The very pale silver and cyan aux lights look great. I’m just wondering if a cooler white LED might have complemented the icy look of the light better?

I just got my red 5.8kK TS10 yesterday. This is my first tail e-switch light, and I have a question.

What, exactly, does loosening the head do in this type of light? My aux lights slowly ramp off, and the tail switch activates these weird, random momentary ramping (sometimes flashing) modes. I can’t find them on any Andúril ui chart.

Loosening the tailcap disconnects the inner tube and disables main power.

However, the outer-body is still connected to the head which powers the switch channel. Anduril 2 does weird stuff when only the switch channel is connected to power. I think the stuff its doing is intentional, but I’m not sure what it’s for.

see 【TS10V2 Ti available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10 titanium version will available on 23th,Sep - #604 by thefreeman

and

I can’t loosen the tailcap on mine. It’s too small and too tight. I don’t have a strap wrench that small, either.

With the head loosened enough that the aux lights go off, everything seems momentary on the e-switch, so I guess that’s safe enough for pocket carry. I’ll probably try without that at first, since it doesn’t seem that likely to activate in my pocket, anyway.

Here is a relevant comment from Toykeeper.

When the head is loosened, main power is disconnected. However, small amount of power through the switch can power up the light. In this state, the light is in reset mode. If you keep pressing the switch while the main power is disconnected, it will begin reset procedure after blinking for about 3 seconds.

If you loosen the head of TS10, your light will not turn on (and drain the battery). But it can reset the light if pressed more than 3 seconds.

I have seen this behavior in KR4 and TS10, but NOT in FW3A. My FW3A switch is completely disabled when I loosen the head.

Hmm. Mine does the ramp up while blinking, but then it just shuts off when it gets to the top of the ramp. If I let it ramp all the way up in blinking mode, then the next time I hit the button, it ramps up with no blinking and stays on at the top of the ramp, but isn’t anywhere near full power. Then if let off the switch, the next time it ramps up blinking. And it just alternates between those two, but only if I let it ramp all the way to the top in blinking ramp.

I don’t know what the reset is supposed to do, but mine came set to muggle mode with the aux leds on high in standby. I’ve changed to advanced mode and set the aux leds to low, and after a long time playing with the head loosened mode, neither of those have reset yet.

When I reset my TS10 (loosen head and keep pressing the switch until ramp ends), it was reset to advanced mode with low AUX. I know mine was reset because my memory and ramp settings were gone.

When I loosen the head and keep pressing the switch right after, mine also ramps up to about 30 lumens. If I keep pressing the switch the light eventually dims to the lowest level. Also, the light turn off when I release the switch. If I press the switch after that I am in the reset mode. I am guessing this may be due to the electricity remaining in the circuit.

sounds like loosening the head is a BAD Idea.

It has pros and cons. It prevents accidental activation, but risks resetting the light. The risk of resetting the light is quite low, because the switch has to be depressed for more than three seconds. On the other hand, if you carry the light without loosening the head, there is relatively high risk of enabling turbo. I think double clicking is much more likely than a three-second long press.

I like to loosen the head of my KR4 to prevent accidental activation by the way.

totally respect your choice

what are some advantages for you, of unscrewing the head, instead of using normal 4C lockout?

4C Lockout with timed enable works so well. The 4 clicks become second nature, I am not so sure why many people do not like the feature. Granted, all of my FW’s are firmmodded for 5C timer set, 10 C is a bit of a pain.

It is simple and quick! For me, it is much quicker to tighten or loosen the head than clicking the switch four times. Also, I don’t have to guess or remember whether it is in lock-out mode.

Excellent points, thanks…

Any light I have that has either an internal tube or “active tailcap” (or just non-ano threads), if I want it locked out, I physically remove the cell.

Don’t have a KR or FW, but that includes the TM03, ED20-T, Tacklife, etc.

Haha, let’s do a donation to science! lol
I have also using my red and white TS10 with turbo mode to repeatedly test whether it will go out.
Its temperature is not easy to control, the 1400 lumen brightness will make it quickly hot.
After 2 times with Turbo mode, it began to quickly reduce brightness too.
Then I pinched their clip in one hand and double -click repeatedly with the nails of the thumb with another hand.
Fanally, it can’t light up more.
Summary: the power of only 1 piece 14500 battery cannot cause damage to the CSP2323. If many batteries with repeatedly performed Turbo test, it may cause LED to broken.

The red 4000K also arrived.

Great are these leds, I hope they will be in other flashlights too :smiley: