It has pros and cons. It prevents accidental activation, but risks resetting the light. The risk of resetting the light is quite low, because the switch has to be depressed for more than three seconds. On the other hand, if you carry the light without loosening the head, there is relatively high risk of enabling turbo. I think double clicking is much more likely than a three-second long press.
I like to loosen the head of my KR4 to prevent accidental activation by the way.
4C Lockout with timed enable works so well. The 4 clicks become second nature, I am not so sure why many people do not like the feature. Granted, all of my FW’s are firmmodded for 5C timer set, 10 C is a bit of a pain.
It is simple and quick! For me, it is much quicker to tighten or loosen the head than clicking the switch four times. Also, I don’t have to guess or remember whether it is in lock-out mode.
Any light I have that has either an internal tube or “active tailcap” (or just non-ano threads), if I want it locked out, I physically remove the cell.
Don’t have a KR or FW, but that includes the TM03, ED20-T, Tacklife, etc.
Haha, let’s do a donation to science! lol
I have also using my red and white TS10 with turbo mode to repeatedly test whether it will go out.
Its temperature is not easy to control, the 1400 lumen brightness will make it quickly hot.
After 2 times with Turbo mode, it began to quickly reduce brightness too.
Then I pinched their clip in one hand and double -click repeatedly with the nails of the thumb with another hand.
Fanally, it can’t light up more.
Summary: the power of only 1 piece 14500 battery cannot cause damage to the CSP2323. If many batteries with repeatedly performed Turbo test, it may cause LED to broken.
Level 1 uses clock/4 and pulses at 611 Hz for reduced power consumption. All other levels are at 2.9 kHz or above (up to 19.6 kHz at level >64).
The first 25-30 levels are in the non-linear region, but seem to ramp quite OK. I also tried to go even lower and got about 0.001 lm or less, but I don't think it would be reliable enough (temperature, battery voltage etc). Even with this configuration the ramp shape might change depending on the environment.
Two more aux LED patterns: off / low / high / fancy blink / blink low / blink high
Aux LED low voltage protection
Smoother sunset timer
Allow turbo in momentary mode (go to turbo, then to momentary via 5C)
PocketUI: Shifts some button mappings from off to make lockout obsolete. Can be enabled via the misc options menu (from off 9H, then 1C to enable or nothing to disable). Changed or new mappings are:
Mode UI Button Action
---- -- ------ ------
Off Any 1C Nothing
Off Any 1H On (momentary floor level)
Off Any 2C On (ramp mode, memorized level)
Off Any 2H On (ramp mode, floor level)
Off Any 3C On (ramp mode, ceiling level)
Off Simple 3H On (momentary ceiling level)
Off Full 3H On (momentary turbo)
Off Any 4C Battcheck mode
Off Full 4H Strobe mode (whichever was used last)
Off Any 5C Lockout mode
Off Full 6C Momentary mode
Ramp Any 5C Lockout mode
Ramp Full 6C Momentary mode
Lockout Any 1C/1H Nothing
Lockout Any 2C/2H Nothing
Lockout Any 3C Nothing
Lockout Any 4C Nothing
Lockout Any 4H Nothing
Lockout Any 5C Unlock (go to "Off" mode)
As you know Jon, I’m having some issues with mine. I like the 4C lockout in Anduril but my TS10 is behaving strangely.
4C puts the light into flashing aux mode, hi/lo flashes. Pressing the button doesn’t offer momentary moonlight or low, the two locked out options. Instead the torch ramps back up as if switched on without the lockout enabled.
While in the 4C (supposedly locked out mode), no matter how many times I try the 7C to change the aux from flashing to low, nothing changes.
While in normal off mode, the aux are dim. 7C from off doesn’t change the aux at all, it remains on low brightness.
No amount of factory resetting, battery removal, extra tightening of the head, or cleaning excess lube makes any difference at all. I can’t lock the light out or change the aux settings.
one more thought… remove battery, tighten head, lose tight, loose then tight… a few times… my thought is to seat and get good contact of the two endtubes, into the head.
if after that the light still does not go into normal lockout when you 4C,
I would say you tried everything and it is time to ask Wurkkos to help with your defective light.
This is sounding like an andruil issue and not a light issue.
If you don’t click the exact way you are supposed to, it does not register.
Also, as was mentioned, the UI is so complicated and so counter intuitive that you may be in a place down the menu tree where the function you are entering is not valid.
the positive driver wire on the TS10’s star is not isolated from the star’s copper substrate. I wonder if the star is DTP under the positive pad of each led.
Maybe this is how they decent heatsinking despite using LEDs that have no dedicated central heatsink pad.
Perhaps this is also why the switch connection goes through the body tube of the light rather than the negative ground connection like in other similar lights.