【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

It has pros and cons. It prevents accidental activation, but risks resetting the light. The risk of resetting the light is quite low, because the switch has to be depressed for more than three seconds. On the other hand, if you carry the light without loosening the head, there is relatively high risk of enabling turbo. I think double clicking is much more likely than a three-second long press.

I like to loosen the head of my KR4 to prevent accidental activation by the way.

totally respect your choice

what are some advantages for you, of unscrewing the head, instead of using normal 4C lockout?

4C Lockout with timed enable works so well. The 4 clicks become second nature, I am not so sure why many people do not like the feature. Granted, all of my FW’s are firmmodded for 5C timer set, 10 C is a bit of a pain.

It is simple and quick! For me, it is much quicker to tighten or loosen the head than clicking the switch four times. Also, I don’t have to guess or remember whether it is in lock-out mode.

Excellent points, thanks…

Any light I have that has either an internal tube or “active tailcap” (or just non-ano threads), if I want it locked out, I physically remove the cell.

Don’t have a KR or FW, but that includes the TM03, ED20-T, Tacklife, etc.

Haha, let’s do a donation to science! lol
I have also using my red and white TS10 with turbo mode to repeatedly test whether it will go out.
Its temperature is not easy to control, the 1400 lumen brightness will make it quickly hot.
After 2 times with Turbo mode, it began to quickly reduce brightness too.
Then I pinched their clip in one hand and double -click repeatedly with the nails of the thumb with another hand.
Fanally, it can’t light up more.
Summary: the power of only 1 piece 14500 battery cannot cause damage to the CSP2323. If many batteries with repeatedly performed Turbo test, it may cause LED to broken.

The red 4000K also arrived.

Great are these leds, I hope they will be in other flashlights too :smiley:

Thank you Shirnask!

For anyone wondering, the clip from an Olight S1R Baton II works great on this light.

It's not perfect, but comes without the jumps.

Level 1 uses clock/4 and pulses at 611 Hz for reduced power consumption. All other levels are at 2.9 kHz or above (up to 19.6 kHz at level >64).

The first 25-30 levels are in the non-linear region, but seem to ramp quite OK. I also tried to go even lower and got about 0.001 lm or less, but I don't think it would be reliable enough (temperature, battery voltage etc). Even with this configuration the ramp shape might change depending on the environment.

Anyway, here you go:

Configuration: https://gist.github.com/SammysHP/5acd7390cba7d252bd304d0cba1e1ea5

Hex: https://cloud.finf.uni-hannover.de/s/YDBbZak4P3oMs2i

The hex comes with some additional features:

  • Two more aux LED patterns: off / low / high / fancy blink / blink low / blink high
  • Aux LED low voltage protection
  • Smoother sunset timer
  • Allow turbo in momentary mode (go to turbo, then to momentary via 5C)
  • PocketUI: Shifts some button mappings from off to make lockout obsolete. Can be enabled via the misc options menu (from off 9H, then 1C to enable or nothing to disable). Changed or new mappings are:

    Mode       UI  Button  Action
    ----        --  ------  ------
    Off     Any 1C  Nothing
    Off     Any 1H  On (momentary floor level)
    Off     Any 2C  On (ramp mode, memorized level)
    Off     Any 2H  On (ramp mode, floor level)
    Off     Any 3C  On (ramp mode, ceiling level)
    Off     Simple  3H  On (momentary ceiling level)
    Off     Full    3H  On (momentary turbo)
    Off     Any 4C  Battcheck mode
    Off     Full    4H  Strobe mode (whichever was used last)
    Off     Any 5C  Lockout mode
    Off     Full    6C  Momentary mode
    

    Ramp Any 5C Lockout mode
    Ramp Full 6C Momentary mode

    Lockout Any 1C/1H Nothing
    Lockout Any 2C/2H Nothing
    Lockout Any 3C Nothing
    Lockout Any 4C Nothing
    Lockout Any 4H Nothing
    Lockout Any 5C Unlock (go to "Off" mode)

As you know Jon, I’m having some issues with mine. I like the 4C lockout in Anduril but my TS10 is behaving strangely.

4C puts the light into flashing aux mode, hi/lo flashes. Pressing the button doesn’t offer momentary moonlight or low, the two locked out options. Instead the torch ramps back up as if switched on without the lockout enabled.

While in the 4C (supposedly locked out mode), no matter how many times I try the 7C to change the aux from flashing to low, nothing changes.

While in normal off mode, the aux are dim. 7C from off doesn’t change the aux at all, it remains on low brightness.

No amount of factory resetting, battery removal, extra tightening of the head, or cleaning excess lube makes any difference at all. I can’t lock the light out or change the aux settings.

sorry to hear

one more thought… remove battery, tighten head, lose tight, loose then tight… a few times… my thought is to seat and get good contact of the two endtubes, into the head.

if after that the light still does not go into normal lockout when you 4C,

I would say you tried everything and it is time to ask Wurkkos to help with your defective light.

Are you in Advanced mode?

I don’t think 7C does anything if you are in basic mode.

true, but 4C works in both simple and advanced,

and his report sounds like the light will not lock out on 4C… it goes disco instead…

Thanks for doing the legwork on that! I’ll throw that ramp info in my config file and see how it goes on mine.

I also really like that PocketUI you’ve added. Kinda reminds me of what Rovyvon does.

This is sounding like an andruil issue and not a light issue.

If you don’t click the exact way you are supposed to, it does not register.

Also, as was mentioned, the UI is so complicated and so counter intuitive that you may be in a place down the menu tree where the function you are entering is not valid.

Bottom line, don’t lose sleep over it.

One other observation:

the positive driver wire on the TS10’s star is not isolated from the star’s copper substrate. I wonder if the star is DTP under the positive pad of each led.

Maybe this is how they decent heatsinking despite using LEDs that have no dedicated central heatsink pad.

Perhaps this is also why the switch connection goes through the body tube of the light rather than the negative ground connection like in other similar lights.

yes, pic is a link to source

That picture matches my observations.

The cool white 5800K is by far the best cool-white I’ve ever seen. Looks very pure white and has great CRI.

However, at least for my tastes, the 4000K version is better. I find the warmer tint to be more pleasant at night and it has just as good CRI.