Could be a good suggestion using a 5A cell, but for me selling them, it’s best I drop that setup altogether.
I liked it in the C8+ because it offered the same range at 4.2A as to what the CULPM1 gets at 8A. Djozz advised 5A was even too high to recommend selling them myself, this is why I’ve been sourcing the 4.2A elsewhere.
I kinda feel like group 8 maxing out at 50% and still being as visually bright (at least to my eyes) as 100% is the solution for people like me who already own one with this “5.7A” driver no?
Assuming that 1% is low enough for your low needs. (You lose 0.1% with group 8)
Wow sorry to hear what happens 'J, is this happen with the tailcap bypassed or not?. As for now i have no cslnm light yet, but thanks for the notice.
Regarding the 'mode reset bug', i've experience those with my 22mm xhp70.2 single cell driver, the red one with brass tab (6v 4,8a 5a ?). But with other same driver i experience that not.(luckily). Happens when take off the battery out, and seems random. Hope Simon fix this.
The spring doesn’t require bypassing anymore since Simon started using his high current 8A springs.
The bug happens when you don’t switch the flashlight off first before unscrewing the tail cap. Enabling mode memory seems to help. This bug was fixed over a year ago though.
So I just came across this thread after ordering a C8+ with CSLNM1 from the Convoy store at Aliexpress. Am I to understand that I should set it up in Group 8 or 9 to protect the emitter — any group at max output of 50%? Apparently, Convoy still hasn’t resolved the issue? Thanks. And bummer! You buy a “toy” like this to enjoy it at its maximum light-saber potential, right?
You could just use a lower amp battery and it won’t stay much above 5A for very long.
When you get it just check the screws holding the mcpcb are screwed tight, they’re often loose because it’s easier to center these Osram LEDs without messing around at the factory.
Well, I have a couple of extra brand new Samsung 30Q batteries that I had planned to use with it — at 15 amps. I also have a couple of old Panasonic 18650B batteries at 5 amps. I guess it is time to see if those still perform, or just use the Samsungs at a group that does not exceed 50%.
This isn’t a fet driver…it’s still controlling the current. A battery doesn’t “give” its rated current, it just means that it’s comfortable at that current (if the electronics will allow it to feed that much). Lower heat, less voltage sag compared to a lower drain battery like the 35E, etc. The emitter also comes into play with its own resistance so between it and the driver, wires, etc. that’s how much juice will flow, regardless of the battery…mostly. On the flip side if you have a driver (like a gates-are-full-open fet design) then a lower drain battery will just sag more and the end result is you get less light output (and a battery that will get warmer, perhaps have reduced cycle life). By using a lower drain 8A cell in this light it’ll still be within its comfortable operating range (usually 80-ish of its rated/tested max current), but it will get tired a little faster than the higher drain 30Q, especially if running the light for longer periods (no voltage rebound). If the driver is still putting out more amps than ideal, limiting the 100 mode to shorter bursts should be fine even with the 30Q…and if not then the lower settings or a driver swap (or working out something else with Simon).