【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

sorry to hear

one more thought… remove battery, tighten head, lose tight, loose then tight… a few times… my thought is to seat and get good contact of the two endtubes, into the head.

if after that the light still does not go into normal lockout when you 4C,

I would say you tried everything and it is time to ask Wurkkos to help with your defective light.

Are you in Advanced mode?

I don’t think 7C does anything if you are in basic mode.

true, but 4C works in both simple and advanced,

and his report sounds like the light will not lock out on 4C… it goes disco instead…

Thanks for doing the legwork on that! I’ll throw that ramp info in my config file and see how it goes on mine.

I also really like that PocketUI you’ve added. Kinda reminds me of what Rovyvon does.

This is sounding like an andruil issue and not a light issue.

If you don’t click the exact way you are supposed to, it does not register.

Also, as was mentioned, the UI is so complicated and so counter intuitive that you may be in a place down the menu tree where the function you are entering is not valid.

Bottom line, don’t lose sleep over it.

One other observation:

the positive driver wire on the TS10’s star is not isolated from the star’s copper substrate. I wonder if the star is DTP under the positive pad of each led.

Maybe this is how they decent heatsinking despite using LEDs that have no dedicated central heatsink pad.

Perhaps this is also why the switch connection goes through the body tube of the light rather than the negative ground connection like in other similar lights.

yes, pic is a link to source

That picture matches my observations.

The cool white 5800K is by far the best cool-white I’ve ever seen. Looks very pure white and has great CRI.

However, at least for my tastes, the 4000K version is better. I find the warmer tint to be more pleasant at night and it has just as good CRI.

Pretty sure I’m factory reset. I removed the head completely quite a few times, let the thing clear it’s head as it were. Did lots of resets, flicker then flash, hold 3 secs. If it’s not in factory mode by now then that doesn’t work either.

4 clicks doesn’t lock the light and allow momentary on, it just puts the aux lights into flashing lo/hi beacon mode. In either the 4C (lockout but not) mode or regular mode the aux cannot be changed with 7C.

When I first fired the thing up yesterday, everything worked fine, even the momentary on. But momentary on had the beacon flash of the aux. 7C didn’t do anything to change it. At the moment it does lock out successfully, but the aux flash can’t be changed, and in normal mode it works as it should but again here, the aux light can’t be changed. Apart from the firmware, I really like it, I’d prefer it ran the original Anduril to be honest.

YAY!
what changed?

do 10H from off to go to Advanced mode.

to confirm you are in advanced mode, do 3C from Off. You should see battery voltage blinks, repeating until you switch off.

Then try 7C from off to change Aux levels

If 3C only gives one round of voltage blinks and then stops. The light is in Simple mode, and 7C wont work.

I’ve confirmed I’m in advanced mode, and I can change the standby aux level, but that doesn’t affect the aux level for lockout. It’s always at blinking/lightning on mine, no matter what 7C sets the standby aux to. Is 7C from off supposed to affect the lockout aux level?

Maybe you are in momentary mode? 5C from off goes into momentary mode. Nothing works in this mode.

Lockout mode is 4C. I can change the aux level in lockout mode with 7C.

no
to change aux in lockout you need to be In Lockout (not just off), then do 7C

I have noticed that the button really requires straight on presses. Took me a couple of days to get good at the switch. Change fingers and cadence it will work.

I think this is the issue.

In my TS10, when I activate lockout I get the blinky beacon mode with aux too. That seems to be the default aux lockout setting.

While the light is locked out and while you’re looking at the aux leds blinking, do a rapid 7 clicks to cycle lockout’s aux led mode.

yes, its a feature, not a bug :student:

this is the description in the manual

“There is one aux LED mode for the regular Off mode, and another aux LED mode for Lockout mode. This allows the user to see at a glance whether the light is locked.”

Well that was weird. I can…or could…confirm all the symptoms Rich was reporting, except that I had no issues changing aux levels in the normal way. But lots of weirdness with lockout mode in either simple or advanced, and in neither way did lockout actually work as lockout. Some odd flashes after 4C, then a button press would bring on low light, and releasing it would put it back into normal ramping mode as if lockout was never recognized at all. Switched back and forth between platforms, tried different aux levels in both, etc, etc. Then I decided to try momentary mode (in advanced) and that worked just fine. So I removed the head, put it back on, and suddenly everything was totally normal Anduril again…lockout as it should be, etc. I hadn’t tried lockout since I first received the light until reading Rich’s comments this evening, but the last three weeks or whatever all of the features I normally use have worked…normally. After a battery swap sometime last week I did notice that the light had factory reset somehow…not sure how that happened.

It seems that perhaps this light was indeed released too soon and without proper testing….and in this case maybe ToyKeeper should have been consulted first for firmware compatibility with the different hardware/signal approach compared to other lights. With the head aux using switch firmware and the signal polarity reversed, maybe custom tweaking is required. Weird to have an Anduril light not work like Anduril. :slight_smile:

Should add that while the light was wonky and using 3C voltage check in simple mode, I often got a weird flutter/buzz just after the voltage blinks completed. That didn’t happen in advanced but was reproducible in simple. Also got a flutter when trying to enter lockout in either platform but it was intermittent. Whatever it was, taking the head off after momentary seems to have returned everything to normal. Odd. Contacts on the driver and signal tube are clean, light touch of grease on the threads but more toward the o-ring.

Thanks SammysHP I just tried your ramp setting on mine and it works great! Thank you for the hard work.

I wonder if it makes sense to merge the new q8-1616 config into the old one and update old targets or if that just causes more confusion. But that’s something for ToyKeeper to decide as the project maintainer.