YAY!
what changed?
do 10H from off to go to Advanced mode.
to confirm you are in advanced mode, do 3C from Off. You should see battery voltage blinks, repeating until you switch off.
Then try 7C from off to change Aux levels
If 3C only gives one round of voltage blinks and then stops. The light is in Simple mode, and 7C wont work.
I’ve confirmed I’m in advanced mode, and I can change the standby aux level, but that doesn’t affect the aux level for lockout. It’s always at blinking/lightning on mine, no matter what 7C sets the standby aux to. Is 7C from off supposed to affect the lockout aux level?
Maybe you are in momentary mode? 5C from off goes into momentary mode. Nothing works in this mode.
Lockout mode is 4C. I can change the aux level in lockout mode with 7C.
no
to change aux in lockout you need to be In Lockout (not just off), then do 7C
I have noticed that the button really requires straight on presses. Took me a couple of days to get good at the switch. Change fingers and cadence it will work.
I think this is the issue.
In my TS10, when I activate lockout I get the blinky beacon mode with aux too. That seems to be the default aux lockout setting.
While the light is locked out and while you’re looking at the aux leds blinking, do a rapid 7 clicks to cycle lockout’s aux led mode.
yes, its a feature, not a bug 
this is the description in the manual
“There is one aux LED mode for the regular Off mode, and another aux LED mode for Lockout mode. This allows the user to see at a glance whether the light is locked.”
Well that was weird. I can…or could…confirm all the symptoms Rich was reporting, except that I had no issues changing aux levels in the normal way. But lots of weirdness with lockout mode in either simple or advanced, and in neither way did lockout actually work as lockout. Some odd flashes after 4C, then a button press would bring on low light, and releasing it would put it back into normal ramping mode as if lockout was never recognized at all. Switched back and forth between platforms, tried different aux levels in both, etc, etc. Then I decided to try momentary mode (in advanced) and that worked just fine. So I removed the head, put it back on, and suddenly everything was totally normal Anduril again…lockout as it should be, etc. I hadn’t tried lockout since I first received the light until reading Rich’s comments this evening, but the last three weeks or whatever all of the features I normally use have worked…normally. After a battery swap sometime last week I did notice that the light had factory reset somehow…not sure how that happened.
It seems that perhaps this light was indeed released too soon and without proper testing….and in this case maybe ToyKeeper should have been consulted first for firmware compatibility with the different hardware/signal approach compared to other lights. With the head aux using switch firmware and the signal polarity reversed, maybe custom tweaking is required. Weird to have an Anduril light not work like Anduril. 
Should add that while the light was wonky and using 3C voltage check in simple mode, I often got a weird flutter/buzz just after the voltage blinks completed. That didn’t happen in advanced but was reproducible in simple. Also got a flutter when trying to enter lockout in either platform but it was intermittent. Whatever it was, taking the head off after momentary seems to have returned everything to normal. Odd. Contacts on the driver and signal tube are clean, light touch of grease on the threads but more toward the o-ring.
Thanks SammysHP I just tried your ramp setting on mine and it works great! Thank you for the hard work.
I wonder if it makes sense to merge the new q8-1616 config into the old one and update old targets or if that just causes more confusion. But that’s something for ToyKeeper to decide as the project maintainer.
The solution is simple. 4 flashlights...
Don’t hold your breath, lockout now doesn’t work. And I haven’t even pressed the button since it was working last night, it’s just decided it’s not going to play today. The 4C still activates the flashing aux, but holding the button ramps the light up.
I’m wondering if I may have a faulty one, and to be honest I want something that operates reliably, especially the lockout on these little pocket rockets.
your light is not behaving normally…
I would get a refund, and after that decide if you want to buy another one… (note Im not saying to ask for a replacement… just ask for a refund, its a simpler conversation, with quicker results).
I gotta say, this is a great little light.
I’d been avoiding the tail e-switches until the kinks got ironed out. But I’m a sucker for a new emitter, and this is my first CSP, I love aux leds, and I’ve never had a high CRI cool tint pocket rocket. So, for $20, I couldn’t resist checking off all those boxes.
Now, if I can just get into the habit of looking at the right Andúril cheat sheet (the printed one from wurkkos is way too small for my quinquagenarian eyes), it’s going to take some self control to keep from ordering several more.
I think I’ll have to Jon, I can’t have a pocket EDC that so can’t lock out without the danger of initiating a factory reset due to the loosened head.
I’ve got the black and orange that you gave me a heads up on arriving pretty soon, so I’ll hang onto the silver and compare the two.
As you say, refund is the way to go. Batch 3 of silver are due soon, maybe I’ll grab one of them.
Also, thanks to Correlux for taking the time to post a similar experience, I’d decided it was probably human error, but I think there’s a genuine problem with the firmware interfacing with the light. Really wish they’d used Anduril 1 for this, I’ve got pretty familiar with that now as it’s being used on Sofirn’s, Fireflies etc.
Btw, can we please start to call it the “Latticepower CSP2323” or similar? There are CSP LEDs of other manufacturers with different properties.
Good idea. The Nichia E21a is also CSP2323
Samsung has some as well. It’s just a package format and the Latticepower misses a proper product name.
I actually thought it was the Samsung, since the Wurkkos page just says CSP, and I had seen the Samsung CSPs mentioned elsewhere. TIL.