Because of this little thread, I ended up ordering a TS21 Nichia 5000k (over a IF25A). You guys are such an influence lol
It’ll eventually be my first 21700 light and in Anduril 2 as well!
Have fun with the light and glad I could help. This Nichia 219c 5000k is a wonderful LED without any nasty green tint. Please note because Wurkkos TS21 has such a small body (small thermal mass) it heats up quickly and becomes dim very quickly in stock form. Therefore it’s great that it has a UI that gives owners the option to a. set correct current temp and b. raise the maximal thermal limit. Please keep in mind the light will become hotter if you raise the thermal limit so take appropriate precaution so it’s not turned on accidentally while in a bag etc. and causes burn/fire.
Once you’re in thermal configuration mode as outlined below, first flash is for setting Current Temp (same as room temp, for example typically 21 C inside my house in LA), and second flash is for setting Temperature Limit, where you would click for example 25 times if you want to set 55 Degrees max (stock is 45 Degrees). For me, the determination of which is the FIRST flash and which is the SECOND flash was the most difficult part when I was new, but became much easier with practice. It did help to dim the flashlight before going into setting so the flashes are easier to look at and temperature doesn’t rise so much during calibration.
If you are new to flashlights (pardon me if you’re not), you might want to check out the magic of Convoy lights with Nichia 219b 4500k (for the best beam color on the internet lol), and Getian GT-FC40 4500k (for being the only thrower with “world class” CRI & beam color currently available on the market). They are my most favorites among all the lighs I have. Hope this helps and makes the hobby more fun for you. :+1: 
EDIT: I had first used a diagram from ivanthinking but then noticed it has an error so it’s been replaced with the one from Lux-Perpetua.
Here’s a good Anduril 2 diagram.
I got it from here Anduril 2 UI diagrams (generic, Lumintop, Sofirn). Thank you @Lux-Perpetua 
.
I haven’t tried thermal calibration yet. I agree that finding the ‘second flash’ is something I worry about. I thought I’d enter the wonderful world of thermal calibration (with the SC31 Pro) but it turns out that it was reading 5 celsius below room temp, so I’m good with that. I don’t have an IR thermometer so if it’s too hot to touch then yeah, step down by all means.
Yep, I have the Anduril diagram pic in my phone!
Thermal calibration is key with mass-produced Anduril lights and especially with a very small light like the Wurkkos TS21. TS21 gets hot so fast (its main weakness) that it dims extremely quickly, quickest of all the lights I have, and therefore for me nearly useless unless temp config is set up properly.
Re. the second flash for setting Stepdown Temp Limit, there is actually a way to check if you have made a mistake, and explaining this might be extremely confusing , but I’ll give it a try.
ASSUMING the only mistake you could have made is entering that 25 clicks (30+25 clicks=55°) after the first flash, instead of the second flash, then what you have done is instead of setting “Stepdown Temp Limit” at 55° C, you’ve set the “Current Temperature” at 25°. To see if you’ve made this error, after you’ve finished, let go of finger and immediately read “Current Temperature”. If it reads 25, likely you’ve made an error. Btw I won’t be surprised if told I’ve lost everyone here. :confounded:
BTW I have the TS21 for a while now and would still confirm that this is for me the most “daylight-truthful” LED in my collection of Nichia LED’s. If I ignore all my OCD debates/rationalizations about which LED is the most beautiful, or most eye-popping, or most CRI accurate, etc. and just ask the simple question, which LED most accurately depicts how the room looks during daylight, it’s this batch of Nichia 219c 5000k from Wurkkos.
My subjective opinion hopefully is clearly illustrated by comparative pictures of my living room vs a couple other famous LED’s on page 1. Essentially, if you are into collecting Nichia LED’s, this light with its “cool”/daylight beam color (vs warm) is also a must-have IMHO.
[quote=cannga]
I find the TS21 to be nearly useless even when temp config has been done.
You can either make it 1) bright enough to be very useful and too hot to touch, or 2) cool enough to touch, but the brightness isn’t going to be enough for some situations.
IMO, you’re better off getting something like the S21D (another 21700 light) and running it at 35%, which is significantly brighter than the ‘cool enough to touch’ output of the TS21.
I would say that you could get the TS21 for reading books or something else that doesn’t require much light, but it begs the question ‘why would I get it at all, when there are other lights available that can do those things and more?’
For me, only because of the Nichia 219c 5000K, an excellent LED which AFAIK no one else is offering at this time.
There is a version of TS21 with Luminus SST20 LED, and I agreed with you there. No reason to buy that one. Sofirn IF25a has 4 of the same LED (instead of 3 in Wurkkos), better throw and brightness, doesn’t have the crazy button light, and doesn’t step-down as much. For me in every way a “better” light.
My other small lights (Emisar D4V2, Sofirn IF25a) have quad LED, TS21 is of similar size but fits only 3. That hurts its max brightness. Even with one less LED, something with the design causes stepdowns to occur SO quickly in comparison.
Having lots of fun with my newly acquired Opple Light Master Pro. Here are the measurements.
Note how closely this LED hugs the BBL line. And the great CRI value.
CCT 4949
Ra 95.6
Duv –0.0008 (x 0.3465, y 0.3511)
Aside from the box label, is there a way to know if it’s an SST20 or 219c flashlight on hand? I mean how would a newbie know if it’s the ordered 219c and not a SST20 ‘accidentally’ sent over?
You may be able to see the bond wires through the TIR for the SST20 version, but not for the 219C.
From my own experience Wurkkos is a legit and good company. To prevent mistake, just make sure you order from their web site or their official store on Aliexpress.
I think I saw it in a Lumintop light earlier…let me see if I can find it.
Yes…the FWAA has it: FWAA at Killzone
Im a bit confused why everyone keeps suggesting this.
I just use mine as it was shipped and have no issues with it getting too hot or dimming.
Maybe I just dont use it bright enough or long enough for this to be an issue for me?
1. Yes that’s it. If you use this light at less than max level, or use it on/off short periods around the house, the TS21 is fine IMHO.
2. If you use the light for example for safety during an evening walk, where high output continuously is desired, then there are better choices. Its fast step-downs actually bothers me A LOT less than I seem to have written about. Personally I still love the light (it’s pretty, I need to collect this LED, and I use it around the house only), but as this thread is sort of an “impression/mini review” thread, I just feel the need to let people know what I found compared to other lights.
3. Having said that, I think it’s still desirable for hobbyists, with or without OCD lol, to have correct/appropriate temperature setting. And the stock setting is too low, for example versus the standard-setting Convoy lights. My beloved Convoy lights seem to have the highest external temperature measured with my IR gun, around 60° C, versus 55° or below for most other lights. The TS21 stock setting of internal temp at 45° is way too low for its own good.
(Sorry for all the edits)
Thank you very much for your reply cannga
I generally use all my lights at medium to low levels. Or sometimes somewhere near, but not at the top of their brightness levels.
Turbo only ever gets used for less than 10 seconds at a time on any of my lights.
Then there’s nothing to worry about IMHO.
Just now notice your signature. Thanks for the chuckle. 
Yes it will work with and without calibration however it really comes to life after you calibrate it.
I have the E2L with 219C 4000K and it is very similar to the SST20 4000K (in the IF25a and in my modified FC11 with TIR). I have the D4V2 with nichia 219b 4500k and it is ok but not better. I had trouble visibly differentiating 2 pieces of metal (as being 2 different pieces) in a mains plug with the 219b 4500K, which was really weird, so I checked and I didn’t have this issue with the other LEDs… (including an old S2+ with XML 4C). It looks whiter but it looks also that some loss of colour distinction is going on (just as the difference low-cri vs high-cri), outside at night it feels too cold (e.g. ground looks almost black) for me. I saw someone else mention this (loss of distinction) recently in a post on BLF too.
A light at night will often be used as the main light and for that a lower temperature is more comfortable. So the 4000K LEDs are more yellow but work very well and give less eye strain than higher temperatures while not being too low such that everything appears ‘yellow’ (i.e. the predominant impression is ‘everything looks yellow/orange’, such low temperature lights to me are mainly useful as comfortable reading lights for this reason, not work lights).
I had trouble with the LH351D in that I felt everything was off upstairs, where I used a lot of varnished pine plywood, but also felt something was off downstairs with wood laminate and various hard woods in various places. This looks to have been caused by too much green, i.e. the FC11 4000K LH351D was ok for many uses but in such places unpalatable. I have no such issues with the 219B, 219C, SST20 in 4000K/4500K, nor with the XML 4C which I also like a lot.
To compare lights I did something else than make pictures a while ago: On a sunny day I shone the lamps on the sections of pine plywood in the shade and compared it to the plywood directly in the sun, with 219C 4000K, SST20 4000K, 219b 4500k. This means I could compare the lights directly with the effect of sunlight and not have to worry about the camera, white balance, displays, etc. The 4000K lights (SST20, 219C) felt closer to reality than the 4500K 219B… This may be partially due to the yellowish colour of the plywood, it would be interesting to try this with other objects.
I also tried these pocket lamps + H04RC with 5000K 351D during the day as fill in light in a shed that is partially lit up from outside when opening the door, lighting on the lit + unlit sections:
- Overcast: 4000K lights appear a bit yellow, the 219B 4500K looks almost the same as the overcast daylight.
- Full sunshine: 4000K looks very yellow, 219B 4500K better, the H04RC looks most similar.
The problem is that in both cases you need a lot of light to light up ‘dark’ sections which are only dark in comparison with the sunlight. This means for a pocket light such colour temperatures are barely of interest as they can’t provide enough light for a reasonable time due to thermal stepdown, this is mostly a useful consideration for higher power work lights… So about 5000K could be optimal for a daylight fill-in high output work lamp, but not for a pocket lamp.
The 5000K 351D makes everything look too bland at night so not at all acceptable for use when it is dark…
All in all my conclusion after trying out more LED types/temperatures (which is the same as my conclusion from manyyears ago): for pocket lamps 4000K or perhaps a bit higher, but in any case lower than 4500K is optimal for use mostly at night.
Fascinating discussions even for this lesser known Nichia no?
Below is amazing work from @maukka (HERE) showing his Nichia 219C 5000k LED’s tantalizing R9 number of 81, and Ra 94. This means the highest possible rating R9080 when used with Convoy diffuser.
Still not quite the off-the-chart level of 219b sw45k (the top line) but outstanding nevertheless. This is a great LED to collect and until Simon decides to put it in his Convoy S21D or Sofirn in their excellent Sofirn IF25a, the Wurkkos TS21 is the best or only choice for a light with 21700 battery, with USB-C charging a bonus. (I really really like that red one!)
