I decided to make already crazy budget monster Astrolux EC06 even crazier by modifying it to use SFN55.2 leds. So I need board for 7070 leds and there being none, I made one myself from 0.5mm copper sheet.
1st. Phase:Cut templates
2nd. Phase: Test fit filed down pcbās. Still some more filing to do.
3rd. Phase: Solder everything together on a hot plate. Beforehand reflector holes were reamed to 9mm. Reflector was then used to hold leds in correct orientation.
4th. Phase: Wire management. Not the easiest one.
5th. Phase: First full power test with Molicel P42Aās. Wires desoldered themself from driver because of heat. It was few pops and light went off.
6th. Phase: Cleaned the solder pads and added higher melting temperature solder. Everything back together and it works. Hasnāt desoldered again. Very bright and also has hotspot instead of pure flood.
I was thinking maybe I should participate in that contest, but I might still build something else. Itās past midnight before itās dark enough for beamshots. Northern country problems. In summer thereās never dark and in winter thereās never light.
fwiw
Not all types of Beamshots have to be taken outdoors at night.
I take indoor beamshots during the day.
Here are some examples of different kinds of Beamshots, only the first example requires being outdoors at night, the other four examples are all indoor photos taken during the day:
1. outdoors at night
2. wall shots showing full beam profile, these can be taken during the day in a dark room or shady corner.
3. flat shots, this is by a window during the day, that is why you can see the flashlights, not just the beams. I find the gray soldering mat background works really well:
4. Corner shots (folded printer paper āwallā), also daytime
5. Composites w duv info, from a daytime shot, and measurements taken during the day in a dark room
I guess the problem is more the ānightā thing, since in the Nordic countries by this time of the year there is light almost ādayā and ānightā, so there is no complete darkness :zipper_mouth_face:
But Iād say that a āclose to darkā environment will allow and even better photo and will still portray how good it lights the ānon-darknessā
Hallo to modders here.Please-i try to open the head of Sofirn SC32.New model out nowā¦But its gluedā¦Any idea how to open a glued head?Thanks a lot!!
I use 3M Safety walk tape. This is very stick grey rubber grip tape that removes cleanly and completely when done.
Tear off a couple pieces and wrap one around the bezel and other around the head. This allows for much better grip.
Still not enough? ā¦ apply plastic-jawed pliers on top of the grip tape.
Donāt have plastic jawed pliers? Cut a piece of 0.032ā sheet aluminum and bend it into a U shape, then wrap it around your light above the grip tape. Apply regular pliers on top of the sheet aluminum.
Apply muscles to unscrew.
Once open use a metal pick to remove the threadlocker from the threads.
Do mod, reassemble, remove grip tape.
Iāve generally found that this technique is sufficient to break most threadlocker used in lights. The only brand Iāve tried this doesnāt work on is Fenix. They seem to squeeze a whole tube of red threadlocker into their threads.
For lights where mechanical pressure doesāt work you may need a blowtorch or oven to loosen the threadlocker. Then Iām guessing silicone or leather gloves to insulate the hot metal as you unscrew. Iāve never tried this method so do not know the best technique when applying heat.