The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

Seems like the IF22A has been more popular, compared to the IF25A. It has been out for a while… and I’m wondering if they’re nearing a point for an updated release.

Why does this say “New” instead of “Updated”?

Glitch in The Matrix?

What have they changed?

Use it as you would. I’d say if you think the brightness steps down too fast from a specific level then increase your temperature ceiling. Might as well check what room temperature the flashlight is reading while at it. Then there’s the aux light which you can set.

I’m still waiting on my TS10 but I’m going to probably be like you where I’ll keep settings in default at first, to see what works for me or not.

I believe top of ramp is by default 150/150 in simple UI, so yes.

Yes, again. I set my TOR in both simple and advanced UI’s at around 90/150. You’ll have to experiment to determine what works best for you.

I have Convoy L2 with sliced SST40 (when I was doing this there wasn’t SFT yet) and fet+1 driver.

Should I upgrade to SFT40?

I don’t use this flashlight anyway, like most of my collection.

I was in this thread and wondered what happens if you try to charge a CR123 battery in a light that has USB-C charging capability meant for LI 16340?

LB: I was afraid of that.
OK. Another “not stupid question”, how can one lubricate the magnetic ring on the WK40?

….I feel like this thread just allows me to ask stupid Q’s…

Didn’t try getting to the ring yet, so dunno.

How do you get the rainbow coloring on Stainless Steel like S41S?

Heat treatment

When swapping a SST40 light with a 3535 led footprint and pcb. Are amps the only need to look out for if the driver will kill the led?

Why no 26800 headlamp/right angle !!! :rage: :rage: :rage:

1 x 26800 won't have enough runtime.

We need a 4 x 26800 headlamp!

The only reason i can think of is that the title has been updated (maybe to reflect that the brightness numbers are in?) so it’s classed as a ‘new’ thread even though it isn’t.

If you’re looking for a reason not to do it then do it. If you’re looking for a reason to do it then don’t.
Go with your heart cos if logic mattered here you wouldn’t be asking :smiley:

Pretty much. The driver doesn’t see the LED’s footprint, it only sees the electrical characteristics, so as long as you match those (volts n amps) you’re good.

My first thought it that info such as ‘what throw is’ is freely available on the site so explore around, use the search engine, read threads, and start building the technical understanding you want.

From the business side of things i think you will get answers and some of those will be contradictory. By all means factor them in but remember that this is a site of flashaholics which is a small, niche segment, not a general consumer site so i can’t see that building a business model based on our specific needs will be all that lucrative.

Basically, if you want technical info at any level then this is the site for it, if you want to share your passion for lighting devices then this is the site for it, if you want to understand what general consumers want… not so much.

Also you may want to give these questions dedicated threads as i can see them getting buried very quickly in this thread, any technical stuff in the technical sub-forums and any business-related stuff in the commercial sub-forums. (Only a suggestion though, it’s not for me to tell you how to use this forum :slight_smile: )

Awesome, thanks!

If I have a flashlight with XHP35 LED (12V, I guess), can I try to mod it and use 4 Samsung Lh351D (3V) LEDs?

Also, how much will it affect the output?

The light in question is an Olight M2R Warrior.

Thanks in advance for any reply! :+1:

EDIT: and it if is 3 Samsung LH315D, instead of 4?