Emisar D3AA is available now

Try to blame user for the bad sale instead of look into the real problem. You are telling me that Hank to all those “jobs”alone, not outsourcing any thing? He is the only shop that makes all of those steps? Who here believe in that? Talking about Frankenstein: how many Hanks lights you have and have you ever wonder why so many tubes size can be interchangable but he made the final thread diffrently so that users can not interchange? to make it worst: 26800 is great fun but must come with specific light? Why? Don’t tell me you try to sell more with that “tactical”, to me it make me don’t want to buy more after got 3ea of 26800 d4sv2.

Yeah, I’m always amazed Hank can produce such a wide variety of lights at the prices he does. There’s a degree of modularity for sure that makes for more component - or at least design - commonality than one might suspect that makes it easier but it still must be a challenge to offer so many different base models with so many options.

SKU proliferation is a problem for any business - it drives up procurement, inventory, production, administrative costs, production costs, and can even lead to consumer confusion to the point they don’t buy your product. And while the market loves variety, it’s only going to be indulged in ways that are profitable to the business.

In a prior career I used to work for a small manufacturer of commercial/industrial equipment. I did the math on one of our products and determined it could be configured hundreds of ways - many of which were inherent to the core steel housing (2 base materials, 4 finish options, 10 basic sizes with a separate matrix of 6 conduit options, up/down orientation, single left/single right/double door) but there was also other options: varying internal dimensions, interlocks, locks, signals, control panels, and numerous other accessories … all without getting into system design complexities. We only routinely sold about a dozen variants, but would occasionally get an oddball request that invariably cost more to make than it sold for and shipped very late due to issues sourcing/producing one-off parts - and only for very good customers who were otherwise profitable. And we did all this for turnkey systems that we would install for a minimum of 5 significant digits USD going on twenty years ago with good residual parts/service revenue.

So, yeah, there’s probably a market out there for a … radiation orange 2x 26800-equipped D1.12 esque flashlight with XHP70 flood LEDs using 4x different optics for awesome hybrid beam and a CBT-140 center channel with a special driver. But that market is also most likely so small that it’s not worth serving at the price it’s willing to pay.

I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn’t functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have “fixed” this but I really hope I didn’t damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.

This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow.

Ok, I’ll ask Hank about this, maybe he can send me a new LED.

Does anyone know if the 12A+FET driver from the DM1.12 is available as single channel config, and as something you could ask for in the single-channel D4V2/DW4/KR4? Or is it larger and therefore only available in the other larger lights like the DM11 or D4SV2?

12A would be a pretty nice upgrade in regulated output from 9A.

hey Hank, can you add on your website somewhere, in the description of the flashlight, or directly in the drop down color menu.
What type of finish is each color of the flashlight. Like HA III if it's Hard Coat Anodize type III, and HA if it's just hard-coat anodizing, and so on.

Hank confirmed he can so 12A by request on D4SV2 over on Reddit, and I imagine he can do that for other lights too.

Anyone know what the coating is on the d1.12, specifically the white ones?

Thinking of getting the DM 1.12 with SFT-40 in center and SST-20 4000K for perimeter… It’s another $20 for having the 219BT-V1, R9080 4500K on the perimeter. Is that worth doing, or would it be a negligible difference?
(I just wish the dedomed 519A wasn’t so steep… that’s another $50 USD).

Accidental edit. Ignore.

Not too long ago, I received my first two D4SV2’s, and one of them has a slight gap around the buttons retaining ring.
Im wondering if this is a concern regarding water resistance?
Im a bit worried about using this light in the rain.

I also wonder if this has anything to do with why when the aux are set to low, the four lights under the button have one brighter than the other three.
My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness.
Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying.

I can’t comment on the retaining ring clearances, but those look like warm white button LEDs and it’s been widely established that the brightness not being even is normal specifically for that color.

Can the back-lit button on the D1v2 be turned off? I don't need it on when the light is not in use and I most definitely don't want it on when the light is in use; annoying as hell. Does Hank offer the option to have a regular, non-back-lit button with the black boot?

If it runs Anduril, 7 clicks ought to get it flashing, then another round for off

I think it looks kind of cool. You lucked out that it happened to be the LED on the “bottom end” of the switch as the light tailstands. If it was on the sides… much more “askew” looking.

7 clicks from off will cycle what mode the button is in while the light is off. The modes are low, high, blinking, and off.

You cannot change its behavior while the light is on unless you flash a custom firmware that specifically disables the switch LED while on.

Hank should be able to easily install a regular non-lighted switch and even a black switch boot via email request before your order ships.

Thank you.


You got lucky that it's bottom one.
I got one on the side, that is dimmer. I Asked hank about it, and received this answer

"It's normal for this small LEDs to have different brightness, since they have different VF value."

from my understanding Its peculiar bad with the warm white.
That's why for next purchases I chosed cold white.
Testing them is probably to much labor intensive

And yes, it's worst in reality, then in the pictures...

The amber color comes out really good, very even brightness. Also very dim when on low which is great at night.

Hi Hank. Random question. How do you prevent particles from getting on the reflectors/lens when you assemble? Is your lab pressurized? Any recommendations to help prevent contamination? Thanks.