This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow.
Does anyone know if the 12A+FET driver from the DM1.12 is available as single channel config, and as something you could ask for in the single-channel D4V2/DW4/KR4? Or is it larger and therefore only available in the other larger lights like the DM11 or D4SV2?
12A would be a pretty nice upgrade in regulated output from 9A.
hey Hank, can you add on your website somewhere, in the description of the flashlight, or directly in the drop down color menu.
What type of finish is each color of the flashlight. Like HA III if it's Hard Coat Anodize type III, and HA if it's just hard-coat anodizing, and so on.
Thinking of getting the DM 1.12 with SFT-40 in center and SST-20 4000K for perimeter… It’s another $20 for having the 219BT-V1, R9080 4500K on the perimeter. Is that worth doing, or would it be a negligible difference?
(I just wish the dedomed 519A wasn’t so steep… that’s another $50 USD).
Not too long ago, I received my first two D4SV2’s, and one of them has a slight gap around the buttons retaining ring.
Im wondering if this is a concern regarding water resistance?
Im a bit worried about using this light in the rain.
I also wonder if this has anything to do with why when the aux are set to low, the four lights under the button have one brighter than the other three.
My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness.
Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying.
I can’t comment on the retaining ring clearances, but those look like warm white button LEDs and it’s been widely established that the brightness not being even is normal specifically for that color.
Can the back-lit button on the D1v2 be turned off? I don't need it on when the light is not in use and I most definitely don't want it on when the light is in use; annoying as hell. Does Hank offer the option to have a regular, non-back-lit button with the black boot?
I think it looks kind of cool. You lucked out that it happened to be the LED on the “bottom end” of the switch as the light tailstands. If it was on the sides… much more “askew” looking.
You got lucky that it's bottom one.
I got one on the side, that is dimmer. I Asked hank about it, and received this answer
"It's normal for this small LEDs to have different brightness, since they have different VF value."
from my understanding Its peculiar bad with the warm white.
That's why for next purchases I chosed cold white.
Testing them is probably to much labor intensive
And yes, it's worst in reality, then in the pictures...
Hi Hank. Random question. How do you prevent particles from getting on the reflectors/lens when you assemble? Is your lab pressurized? Any recommendations to help prevent contamination? Thanks.
I think this is the common issue for the B35AM LED itself, the MCPCB is the best that we can produce, and there is no soldering issue whatever.
The LED will not die at high current (3.6A), but the smoke will come out on turbo mode.
We plan to reduce the current of the B35AM LED, this is the only way to prevent the smoke, only that the output will be reduced as well unfortunately.