Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

Worst I’ve seen was on a Fenix light.

They used so much threadlocker that it filled 100% of the threads with excess squeezing out on both sides. It was red threadlocker too. Almost broke my pliers unscrewing the pill and this on a one AAA sized light.

I was going to defer to you on this one. You are like the beam connoisseur after all. DUV/output changes aside what do you think has the cleanest beam? I suspect it will be a short range light so whatever has the least rings/artifacts I suppose.

I find the SP10 Pro reflector has a pretty fuzzy overall profile, and is very forgiving of LED size… it works both domed and dedomed w 519a… both have pros and cons, larger round hotspot, or tighter throwyer hotspot…

but dedoming creates not only warmth, it pushes the Tint DUV down to about –0.0040, whereas the Domed 519a is much closer to the BBL…

the two photos above show the domed and dedomed beam profiles, as seen by my iPhone, which makes them look worse than in real life

here is the stock LH351d beam, for reference, it is no better, on camera

they all have sort of a secondary brighter transition, between hotspot and spill, and a shadow ring before an outer boundary ring…

but in real life, I think if you look at your stock beam, any LED you choose will be as good or better… our eyes are much more forgiving than the camera, in actual use, the SP10 Beam is not as varied across the spill as it looks in photos.

the SP10 Pro reflector is sort of short and wide… not particularly effective at focusing a hotspot… which makes it versatile, and compatible with both large domes or small…

The SC21 Pro has a Much better beam focus… recommended… for beam quality

I suggest you install a domed 519a, see for yourself, and then dedome it… to know first hand… bear in mind they drop about 20% in Kelvin Color when dedoming…

of the 517a Ive tried, the two standouts are the domed 5700K (super clean, not green daylight white), and the dedomed 4500K (makes a nice 3500K), but I recall you like neutral tint duv, so domed 519a may suit you best… it is similar to E21a…

here are my domed and dedomed 519a pairs:
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I get my 519a from azhu btw… or there is a telegram based group buy from Clemence…

Since it’s fairly good with either I will start with 519A 3500K dome on. In my test this was already below the BBL by a decent amount using a TIR.

Having followed in the footsteps of moderator007 and gchart by modding my old UTorch UT01 I feel like this light is the “Production light”/next generation of that. Truly a light that was ahead of its time. Very fine OP reflector, deep carry clip, super compact, fine knurling.

However, gchart’s brilliant work with this driver makes this light and I gotta support that.

using a Tir in an SP10 sounds nice… hope you post a photo… and DUV…

gchart’s work on the SP10 Pro driver is amazing, not only does it have AA compatibility, it has the lowest low of any Anduril light I know…

plus he offers a flashing Kit, and updated Hex files… just amazing support :beer:

I sent PMs to the people who mentionned interest in the T1616 programmer.

If I forgot anybody please send me a PM.

Edit : for people in the US please ask Gchart first if he has programmers available.

Here’s my SP10 Pro with 519A 3500K (from Convoy site)

Beam

Beam

Left: SP01 Pro w/ 519A 3500K / Right: UT01 w/ LH351D 3500K
I really like the well defined hotspot of the UT01 reflector but the SP10 Pro is fine too.

Spectro (High with NiMH Eneloop)

nice strawberry color and -duv :+1:
glad the beam works for you too…

Previously my favorite color temp was 4000-4500K.

But now that I’ve tried dedomed 519a, I think my favorite color temp is around 3500K.

jon_slider has gotten me to like warmer tints!!! :laughing: :smiley:

Dangit… now I have to swap emitters in a ton of lights! :money_mouth_face:

LOL!
choices are good :beer:

I just got a green SP10 Pro in the mail today. I wasn’t going to get one, as I have three SP10s’s. Getting to pick it up for just under $23 all in with battery/charger pushed me to go for it.

I do like the older host better. As has been said before, it’s a little shorter and has a better tail cap. The new clip isn’t great, but it is better than the old one.

Anduril 2 was actually a deterrent at first, as I didn’t want to learn all the new procedures compared to Anduril 1. But the few extras it has are worth it (I dig the timer on the hybrid memory and the ultra low moonlight). What blows me away is this thing’s performance on NIMH. I don’t know how long a battery would last, but its output is pretty amazing. It’s decent with a 14500 too, though it doesn’t outshine the competition (sadly, pun intended) like with NIMH.

It will definitely be my EDC for a few weeks to see if the happiness of the honeymoon phase fades.

Those threads I’ve seen elsewhere (can’t recall which post/thread) and seems a hybrid of Trap/Square. An album of such and the nitty-gritty of thread form from Machinery’s Handbook.

Trapezoidal threads

It would seem like a stub Trapezoidal thread with a wider root than the standard (cutting tool plunged deeper than the 1/3 pitch). Perhaps to accommodate a square thread also (wouldn’t that be clever?) or some flashlight designer rewrote the book on thread form (the handbook is the definitive author on machining standards - else of special in-house needs).

I don’t have an SP10 Pro but my SP10S and the SC21 have square threads. Sofirn’s machining is correct on those 2 lights. So I might deduce some voluntary screw thread form was made or they allowed more clearance than what is standard.

Acme threads have been superseded for many years now. Same as the Whitworth. (29º and 55º respectively; inclusive angles). The term Acme is a misnomer for Trapezoidal as simpler to remember and write. Some artifact items are still made BSW (British Standard Whitworth).

That ACME company is vintage. Wonder if Chuck Jones was inspired when creating the popular Wile E. Coyote character? (wiki)

So, thanks to thefreeman (nice adapter) and gchart, I was finally able to reflash my SP10 Pro :smiley: .

This light will get a 5000K 519A if I can get one. Installed gcc-avr und the Atmel files on my Pi, hopefuly I can get Andúril to compile on this system. One thing to do: Kicking out the reversed direction after ramping up.

Thanks for the pogo adapter gchart!

I finally got around to updating Anduril on my SP10 Pro and TS10 using a CP2102 USB adapter and pogo adapter.

Here are my notes for using gchart’s adapter with Ubuntu 22.04 LTS to build Anduril 2 and flash an SP10 and TS10 with avrdude:

starryalley pointed out that v1 of the attiny dfp pack works. I had a compilation error with the SP10 Pro when using v2 of the pack.

Has anyone got ZFlasher AVR working for Android?

Thanks!!! :+1:

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Have anyone done a runtime on moon mode ?

Just curious how long it last

Parametrek or Bob_McBob could make a synthetic runtime test…

This forum rocks.
Lost my Convoy AA and it took less than 5 minutes reading to decide on buying the SP10.

Thanks for all the info!

What’s everyone using for a 14500 cell with the SP10 Pro?

Protected or Non?

It’s a long thread to read through everything. I figure I’ll ask.

The unprotected one from Sofirn.