pc_light wrote:

#Haukkeli

That mod/post is OL Challenge worthy/ready.

Well done Haukkeli!!!

And…beamshots, or it didn’t happen

MascaratumB wrote:

pc_light wrote:

#Haukkeli

That mod/post is OL Challenge worthy/ready.

I was thinking exactly this

Well done Haukkeli!!!

And…beamshots, or it didn’t happen

Haukkeli wrote:

MascaratumB wrote:

pc_light wrote:

#Haukkeli

That mod/post is OL Challenge worthy/ready.

I was thinking exactly this

Well done Haukkeli!!!

And…beamshots, or it didn’t happen

I was thinking maybe I should participate in that contest, but I might still build something else. It’s past midnight before it’s dark enough for beamshots. Northern country problems. In summer there’s never dark and in winter there’s never light.

Oh, I know , not easy to take some bemashots at this time of the year
It is probably a beast, though, shinning at the “darkest hours” of the day

Haukkeli wrote:

It’s past midnight before it’s dark enough for beamshots.

I take indoor beamshots during the day.

Here are some examples of different kinds of Beamshots, only the first example requires being outdoors at night, the other four examples are all indoor photos taken during the day:

1. outdoors at night

2. wall shots showing full beam profile, these can be taken during the day in a dark room or shady corner.

3. flat shots, this is by a window during the day, that is why you can see the flashlights, not just the beams. I find the gray soldering mat background works really well:

4. Corner shots (folded printer paper “wall”), also daytime

5. Composites w duv info, from a daytime shot, and measurements taken during the day in a dark room

jon_slider wrote:

I take indoor beamshots during the day.

It’ll just be a white picture

thefreeman wrote:

It’ll just be a white picture

Haukkeli’s monster mod is probably more than 30 000lm, so I’m joking about the resulting picture being simply white if taken indoors.

Like Zeroair’s beamshots that are done with fixed exposure/aperture for comparison.

jon_slider wrote:

1. outdoors at night

I guess the problem is more the “night” thing, since in the Nordic countries by this time of the year there is light almost “day” and “night”, so there is no complete darkness

But I’d say that a “close to dark” environment will allow and even better photo and will still portray how good it lights the “non-darkness”

Unicorn 4000K 519a 10° TIR

Opple data:

Original MCPCB is pretty small:

Beam comparison:

Sunny TIR pattern visible on the wall:

Copper S2+ with 15A Convoy driver and three Osram CSLNM1 and Astrolux S1 lighted switch

Nice one Luna

Hallo to modders here.Please-i try to open the head of Sofirn SC32.New model out now..But its glued..Any idea how to open a glued head?Thanks a lot!!

I use 3M Safety walk tape. This is very stick grey rubber grip tape that removes cleanly and completely when done.

• Tear off a couple pieces and wrap one around the bezel and other around the head. This allows for much better grip.
• Still not enough? … apply plastic-jawed pliers on top of the grip tape.
• Don’t have plastic jawed pliers? Cut a piece of 0.032” sheet aluminum and bend it into a U shape, then wrap it around your light above the grip tape. Apply regular pliers on top of the sheet aluminum.
• Apply muscles to unscrew.
• Once open use a metal pick to remove the threadlocker from the threads.
• Do mod, reassemble, remove grip tape.

I’ve generally found that this technique is sufficient to break most threadlocker used in lights. The only brand I’ve tried this doesn’t work on is Fenix. They seem to squeeze a whole tube of red threadlocker into their threads.

For lights where mechanical pressure does’t work you may need a blowtorch or oven to loosen the threadlocker. Then I’m guessing silicone or leather gloves to insulate the hot metal as you unscrew. I’ve never tried this method so do not know the best technique when applying heat.

Heating helps even if it isn’t blazing hot when you unscrew. I think it breaks it down a little each time.

VrestoTaylor wrote:

Any idea how to open a glued head?

then use leather wrap and vise grips
.

or use strap wrenches:
.

Also important to note to NOT use a plain vise or anything that would squish either head or body out-of-round, because then you’ll never get it off.

jon_slider wrote:

VrestoTaylor wrote:

Any idea how to open a glued head?

[…]or, dip flashlight bezel in hot boiled water for a minute…

then use leather wrap and vise grips […]

I would not advise to dip it into water! I’d say that it is more risky than heating it with sun heat or even a lighter.
If there is any leak into the driver, it may result in damage when turning the flashlight ON.
Heat and force (vise, leather wraps) = YES; Hot water = NOT so much.

Just my perspective of course

MascaratumB wrote:

jon_slider wrote:

VrestoTaylor wrote:

Any idea how to open a glued head?

[…]or, dip flashlight bezel in hot boiled water for a minute…

then use leather wrap and vise grips […]

I would not advise to dip it into water! I’d say that it is more risky than heating it with sun heat or even a lighter.
If there is any leak into the driver, it may result in damage when turning the flashlight ON.
Heat and force (vise, leather wraps) = YES; Hot water = NOT so much.

Just my perspective of course

He only dips the bezel part. That’s my method also. First whole head of light to freezer to shrink. Then just quick dip of bezel to boiling water. Bezel expanses when rest of the head is still shrinken.

Haukkeli wrote:

MascaratumB wrote:

jon_slider wrote:

VrestoTaylor wrote:

Any idea how to open a glued head?

[…]or, dip flashlight bezel in hot boiled water for a minute…

then use leather wrap and vise grips […]

I would not advise to dip it into water! I’d say that it is more risky than heating it with sun heat or even a lighter.
If there is any leak into the driver, it may result in damage when turning the flashlight ON.
Heat and force (vise, leather wraps) = YES; Hot water = NOT so much.

Just my perspective of course

He only dips the bezel part. That’s my method also. First whole head of light to freezer to shrink. Then just quick dip of bezel to boiling water. Bezel expanses when rest of the head is still shrinken.

Ok, I was just being cautious with that, because for someone unexperienced, it may result in failure.

I also use the boiling water method but the parts are in a plastic bag when they are dipped in the water. I’m pretty sure jon_slider also uses this method.

I will try it today.But the usb port is there…Need to be carefull,..

VrestoTaylor wrote:

I will try it today.But the usb port is there…Need to be carefull,..

jon_slider wrote:

VrestoTaylor wrote:

I will try it today.But the usb port is there…Need to be carefull,..

Just Dip the Tip… or use protection

Tried out a weird Osram emitter (S2WN) in my S2+

Swapped Convoy 519A 4500Ks into my Jaxman i2, YLP Unicorn, and Lumzoo GH10

So its done.Sofirn Sc32 reflowed with xhp50.2.Its a little pocket rocket.Interesting that the optic is fit with xhp as it was fit with the original sst40.And the size is pretty different.Shines brutally good.Hot on turbo after 15 seconds but its the smallest xhp50 torch i know about..Maybe any Eagletac model.But this is pretty small.10 cm..Nice model really small and bright.Now a hot rod.Sadly i dont know how to post pics here.Iam in the forest.And its briiight

I did my first spring bypass on a BLF Q8. The soldering isn’t the prettiest, but all of the joints are solid enough. I scraped some of the solder mask off the traces on the bottom board near the screw holes and soldered the bypass wires to those.

Kakapo wrote:

I did my first spring bypass on a BLF Q8. The soldering isn’t the prettiest, but all of the joints are solid enough. I scraped some of the solder mask off the traces on the bottom board near the screw holes and soldered the bypass wires to those.

Hey there Friends! I havent posted on the Mod page here in awhile, but this weekend I did a mod for a customer that i am quite proud of!

My first Novatac SPL !

https://imgur.com/a/qE0p2Ja

I definitely didn't even want to attempt it out of fear of failure (and ruining the light), but it came out pretty good. I had hit some bumps along the way like needing to make my own 1.5mm wires to extend the leads from the driver bc they wouldn't reach my reground 16mm mcpcb pads. I also had to use a centering ring i had luckily left over form a GT Micro mod. 

A huge thank you to JonSlider for showing me the way on how to even get this light apart, and for leading me to the Amazing CRX mods on what the MCPCB needed to look like! Thank you Jon, and CRX too! My mcpcb doesn't look anywhere near as clean as theirs do, but I tried my best! the light works and the tint... well, a dedomed sm405 Nichia 519a, it looks amazing of course!

Nice Artie. Great to see a “vintage” light up to date. This one is still on my modding bucket list also.