fwiw
Not all types of Beamshots have to be taken outdoors at night.
I take indoor beamshots during the day.
Here are some examples of different kinds of Beamshots, only the first example requires being outdoors at night, the other four examples are all indoor photos taken during the day:
1. outdoors at night
2. wall shots showing full beam profile, these can be taken during the day in a dark room or shady corner.
3. flat shots, this is by a window during the day, that is why you can see the flashlights, not just the beams. I find the gray soldering mat background works really well:
4. Corner shots (folded printer paper “wall”), also daytime
5. Composites w duv info, from a daytime shot, and measurements taken during the day in a dark room
I guess the problem is more the “night” thing, since in the Nordic countries by this time of the year there is light almost “day” and “night”, so there is no complete darkness :zipper_mouth_face:
But I’d say that a “close to dark” environment will allow and even better photo and will still portray how good it lights the “non-darkness”
I use 3M Safety walk tape. This is very stick grey rubber grip tape that removes cleanly and completely when done.
Tear off a couple pieces and wrap one around the bezel and other around the head. This allows for much better grip.
Still not enough? … apply plastic-jawed pliers on top of the grip tape.
Don’t have plastic jawed pliers? Cut a piece of 0.032” sheet aluminum and bend it into a U shape, then wrap it around your light above the grip tape. Apply regular pliers on top of the sheet aluminum.
Apply muscles to unscrew.
Once open use a metal pick to remove the threadlocker from the threads.
Do mod, reassemble, remove grip tape.
I’ve generally found that this technique is sufficient to break most threadlocker used in lights. The only brand I’ve tried this doesn’t work on is Fenix. They seem to squeeze a whole tube of red threadlocker into their threads.
For lights where mechanical pressure does’t work you may need a blowtorch or oven to loosen the threadlocker. Then I’m guessing silicone or leather gloves to insulate the hot metal as you unscrew. I’ve never tried this method so do not know the best technique when applying heat.
I would not advise to dip it into water! I’d say that it is more risky than heating it with sun heat or even a lighter.
If there is any leak into the driver, it may result in damage when turning the flashlight ON.
Heat and force (vise, leather wraps) = YES; Hot water = NOT so much.
He only dips the bezel part. That’s my method also. First whole head of light to freezer to shrink. Then just quick dip of bezel to boiling water. Bezel expanses when rest of the head is still shrinken.
I also use the boiling water method but the parts are in a plastic bag when they are dipped in the water. I’m pretty sure jon_slider also uses this method.