Emisar D3AA is available now

[nick779]

@CRC2

Not too long ago, I received my first two D4SV2’s, and one of them has a slight gap around the buttons retaining ring.
Im wondering if this is a concern regarding water resistance?
Im a bit worried about using this light in the rain.

I also wonder if this has anything to do with why when the aux are set to low, the four lights under the button have one brighter than the other three.
My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness.
Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying.

I can’t comment on the retaining ring clearances, but those look like warm white button LEDs and it’s been widely established that the brightness not being even is normal specifically for that color.

[scs]

Can the back-lit button on the D1v2 be turned off? I don't need it on when the light is not in use and I most definitely don't want it on when the light is in use; annoying as hell. Does Hank offer the option to have a regular, non-back-lit button with the black boot?

[Auxilshunter]

If it runs Anduril, 7 clicks ought to get it flashing, then another round for off

[xevious (Gary)]

@CRC2

My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness.
Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying.

I think it looks kind of cool. You lucked out that it happened to be the LED on the “bottom end” of the switch as the light tailstands. If it was on the sides… much more “askew” looking.

[tactical_grizzly]

@scs

Can the back-lit button on the D1v2 be turned off? I don’t need it on when the light is not in use and I most definitely don’t want it on when the light is in use; annoying as hell. Does Hank offer the option to have a regular, non-back-lit button with the black boot?

7 clicks from off will cycle what mode the button is in while the light is off. The modes are low, high, blinking, and off.

You cannot change its behavior while the light is on unless you flash a custom firmware that specifically disables the switch LED while on.

Hank should be able to easily install a regular non-lighted switch and even a black switch boot via email request before your order ships.

[scs]

@tactical_grizzly

@scs

Can the back-lit button on the D1v2 be turned off? I don't need it on when the light is not in use and I most definitely don't want it on when the light is in use; annoying as hell. Does Hank offer the option to have a regular, non-back-lit button with the black boot?

7 clicks from off will cycle what mode the button is in while the light is off. The modes are low, high, blinking, and off. You cannot change its behavior while the light is on unless you flash a custom firmware that specifically disables the switch LED while on. Hank should be able to easily install a regular non-lighted switch and even a black switch boot via email request before your order ships.

Thank you.

[kokosnh]

@CRC2

the four lights under the button have one brighter than the other three. My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness. Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying. !{width:33%}https://i.imgur.com/Jzgfoym.jpg!

You got lucky that it's bottom one.
I got one on the side, that is dimmer. I Asked hank about it, and received this answer

"It's normal for this small LEDs to have different brightness, since they have different VF value."

from my understanding Its peculiar bad with the warm white.
That's why for next purchases I chosed cold white.
Testing them is probably to much labor intensive

And yes, it's worst in reality, then in the pictures...

[Mark_M]

The amber color comes out really good, very even brightness. Also very dim when on low which is great at night.

[mcflies]

Hi Hank. Random question. How do you prevent particles from getting on the reflectors/lens when you assemble? Is your lab pressurized? Any recommendations to help prevent contamination? Thanks.

[xevious (Gary)]

@Mark M

The amber color comes out really good, very even brightness. Also very dim when on low which is great at night.

Good to know that. I think I’m going to go amber instead of warm white.

[Hank_Wang]

@thefreeman

@Jensen

I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn’t functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have “fixed” this but I really hope I didn’t damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.

This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow.

I think this is the common issue for the B35AM LED itself, the MCPCB is the best that we can produce, and there is no soldering issue whatever.
The LED will not die at high current (3.6A), but the smoke will come out on turbo mode.
We plan to reduce the current of the B35AM LED, this is the only way to prevent the smoke, only that the output will be reduced as well unfortunately.

[m03da (a bear.)]

@xevious

I think I’m going to go amber instead of warm white.

It looks great too, especially on a cyan body imo!

[Hank_Wang]

@thefreeman

@Hank Wang

@zak.wilson

I was just suggesting the DW4 with SST-20 660nm to a friend for darkroom use. I’m curious as to why the boost driver can’t be used with those emitters. Vf too low?

It does work actually, only that the moon mode is just too bright, almost like medium mode, so, you can only ramp from medium to high mode, other than that, it works fine, I assume it’s because of the low VF.

One resistor needs to be changed for the output voltage to swing across the lower voltage range of red LEDs. The current range is about 8.5V to 14.5V (simulated with the resistor values), fine for white LEDs but doesn’t go low enough for red LEDs.

I talked about it in several comments in this Reddit thread

Thanks for the information, we have changed the resistors on the driver, now the SST-20 deep red LEDs work perfectly fine with the boost driver.

[Hank_Wang]

UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1

[tactical_grizzly]

@Hank Wang

UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1

Very cool! Will this be an option for KR1 as well? What driver is being used for the UV emitter?

[Hank_Wang]

@tactical_grizzly

@Hank Wang

UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1

Very cool! Will this be an option for KR1 as well? What driver is being used for the UV emitter?

Yes, just added the options for KR1.
It’s linear 1.5A driver.

[puglife2]

when D1S ?

[thefreeman]

@Hank Wang

@thefreeman

One resistor needs to be changed for the output voltage to swing across the lower voltage range of red LEDs. The current range is about 8.5V to 14.5V (simulated with the resistor values), fine for white LEDs but doesn’t go low enough for red LEDs.

I talked about it in several comments in this Reddit thread

Thanks for the information, we have changed the resistors on the driver, now the SST-20 deep red LEDs work perfectly fine with the boost driver.

[maba]

D4SV2 / KR1 / D1 v2 / D4

[NoneTheWiser]

@puglife2

when D1S ?

Here is a link to a review of the D1S from 2017.