Emisar D3AA is available now

[xevious (Gary)]

@CRC2

My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness.
Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying.

I think it looks kind of cool. You lucked out that it happened to be the LED on the “bottom end” of the switch as the light tailstands. If it was on the sides… much more “askew” looking.

[tactical_grizzly]

@scs

Can the back-lit button on the D1v2 be turned off? I don’t need it on when the light is not in use and I most definitely don’t want it on when the light is in use; annoying as hell. Does Hank offer the option to have a regular, non-back-lit button with the black boot?

7 clicks from off will cycle what mode the button is in while the light is off. The modes are low, high, blinking, and off.

You cannot change its behavior while the light is on unless you flash a custom firmware that specifically disables the switch LED while on.

Hank should be able to easily install a regular non-lighted switch and even a black switch boot via email request before your order ships.

[scs]

@tactical_grizzly

@scs

Can the back-lit button on the D1v2 be turned off? I don't need it on when the light is not in use and I most definitely don't want it on when the light is in use; annoying as hell. Does Hank offer the option to have a regular, non-back-lit button with the black boot?

7 clicks from off will cycle what mode the button is in while the light is off. The modes are low, high, blinking, and off. You cannot change its behavior while the light is on unless you flash a custom firmware that specifically disables the switch LED while on. Hank should be able to easily install a regular non-lighted switch and even a black switch boot via email request before your order ships.

Thank you.

[kokosnh]

@CRC2

the four lights under the button have one brighter than the other three. My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness. Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying. !{width:33%}https://i.imgur.com/Jzgfoym.jpg!

You got lucky that it's bottom one.
I got one on the side, that is dimmer. I Asked hank about it, and received this answer

"It's normal for this small LEDs to have different brightness, since they have different VF value."

from my understanding Its peculiar bad with the warm white.
That's why for next purchases I chosed cold white.
Testing them is probably to much labor intensive

And yes, it's worst in reality, then in the pictures...

[Mark_M]

The amber color comes out really good, very even brightness. Also very dim when on low which is great at night.

[mcflies]

Hi Hank. Random question. How do you prevent particles from getting on the reflectors/lens when you assemble? Is your lab pressurized? Any recommendations to help prevent contamination? Thanks.

[xevious (Gary)]

@Mark M

The amber color comes out really good, very even brightness. Also very dim when on low which is great at night.

Good to know that. I think I’m going to go amber instead of warm white.

[Hank_Wang]

@thefreeman

@Jensen

I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn’t functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have “fixed” this but I really hope I didn’t damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.

This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow.

I think this is the common issue for the B35AM LED itself, the MCPCB is the best that we can produce, and there is no soldering issue whatever.
The LED will not die at high current (3.6A), but the smoke will come out on turbo mode.
We plan to reduce the current of the B35AM LED, this is the only way to prevent the smoke, only that the output will be reduced as well unfortunately.

[m03da (a bear.)]

@xevious

I think I’m going to go amber instead of warm white.

It looks great too, especially on a cyan body imo!

[Hank_Wang]

@thefreeman

@Hank Wang

@zak.wilson

I was just suggesting the DW4 with SST-20 660nm to a friend for darkroom use. I’m curious as to why the boost driver can’t be used with those emitters. Vf too low?

It does work actually, only that the moon mode is just too bright, almost like medium mode, so, you can only ramp from medium to high mode, other than that, it works fine, I assume it’s because of the low VF.

One resistor needs to be changed for the output voltage to swing across the lower voltage range of red LEDs. The current range is about 8.5V to 14.5V (simulated with the resistor values), fine for white LEDs but doesn’t go low enough for red LEDs.

I talked about it in several comments in this Reddit thread

Thanks for the information, we have changed the resistors on the driver, now the SST-20 deep red LEDs work perfectly fine with the boost driver.

[Hank_Wang]

UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1

[tactical_grizzly]

@Hank Wang

UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1

Very cool! Will this be an option for KR1 as well? What driver is being used for the UV emitter?

[Hank_Wang]

@tactical_grizzly

@Hank Wang

UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1

Very cool! Will this be an option for KR1 as well? What driver is being used for the UV emitter?

Yes, just added the options for KR1.
It’s linear 1.5A driver.

[puglife2]

when D1S ?

[thefreeman]

@Hank Wang

@thefreeman

One resistor needs to be changed for the output voltage to swing across the lower voltage range of red LEDs. The current range is about 8.5V to 14.5V (simulated with the resistor values), fine for white LEDs but doesn’t go low enough for red LEDs.

I talked about it in several comments in this Reddit thread

Thanks for the information, we have changed the resistors on the driver, now the SST-20 deep red LEDs work perfectly fine with the boost driver.

[maba]

D4SV2 / KR1 / D1 v2 / D4

[NoneTheWiser]

@puglife2

when D1S ?

Here is a link to a review of the D1S from 2017.

[kokosnh]

@Hank Wang

@thefreeman

@Jensen

I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn’t functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have “fixed” this but I really hope I didn’t damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.

This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow.

I think this is the common issue for the B35AM LED itself, the MCPCB is the best that we can produce, and there is no soldering issue whatever. The LED will not die at high current (3.6A), but the smoke will come out on turbo mode. We plan to reduce the current of the B35AM LED, this is the only way to prevent the smoke, only that the output will be reduced as well unfortunately.

Well just received My D1 mini B35AM 4000K (cold white aux), and I can confirm that it's smoking on turbo. But to be honest it doesn't bothering me at all. It even look nice, as the smoke swirls inside the reflector.
There's a visible tint shift, from low to high mode. opple measured around 250K shift, from around 3800K on low to around 4050K on high. opple isn't very accurate, so I average it measurements (take it with a grain of salt).

Turbo - 5.6A
Moon - 7030µA
Aux off - 67µA
Aux on Low - 76µA
Aux on High - 260µA
it jumps +200µA every 8 seconds or so for brif moment, from my understanding, that's just the driver waking up to check the voltage.




And well, to be honest, it's not so smaller than my 21700 flashlights...
the beam is quite nice, but the spill diameter is rather tight compared to my other flashlights.

[Valynor]

@kokosnh

Well just received My D1 mini B35AM 4000K (cold white aux), and I can confirm that it's smoking on turbo. But to be honest it doesn't bothering me at all. It even look nice, as the smoke swirls inside the reflector.

To be honest I think you should bother for these two reasons:

-something is vaporising from the LED and it's most likely not good for the LED in the long term

-the smoke will settle on the reflector and lens and reduce brightness/throw

[kokosnh]

@Valynor

@kokosnh

Well just received My D1 mini B35AM 4000K (cold white aux), and I can confirm that it’s smoking on turbo. But to be honest it doesn’t bothering me at all. It even look nice, as the smoke swirls inside the reflector.

To be honest I think you should bother for these two reasons:

-something is vaporising from the LED and it's most likely not good for the LED in the long term

-the smoke will settle on the reflector and lens and reduce brightness/throw

Well, you were right. I think it settle on the reflector, when I had it laying on my desk yesterday, so it settle on half of it for now. The other half of the reflector looks mostly OK.

Yeah that is not how the reflectors should look like. Don't Turbo B35AM guys.