this is a beamshot taken indoors during the day:
(if you cannot see my photos on BLF? here is a direct link https://i.imgur.com/5MXB2ZR.jpg)
Haukkeliās monster mod is probably more than 30 000lm, so Iām joking about the resulting picture being simply white if taken indoors.
Like Zeroairās beamshots that are done with fixed exposure/aperture for comparison.
I guess the problem is more the ānightā thing, since in the Nordic countries by this time of the year there is light almost ādayā and ānightā, so there is no complete darkness :zipper_mouth_face:
But Iād say that a āclose to darkā environment will allow and even better photo and will still portray how good it lights the ānon-darknessā 
Unicorn 4000K 519a 10Ā° TIR
Opple data:
Original MCPCB is pretty small:
Beam comparison:
Sunny TIR pattern visible on the wall:
Copper S2+ with 15A Convoy driver and three Osram CSLNM1 and Astrolux S1 lighted switch
Nice one Luna 
Hallo to modders here.Please-i try to open the head of Sofirn SC32.New model out nowā¦But its gluedā¦Any idea how to open a glued head?Thanks a lot!!
I use 3M Safety walk tape. This is very stick grey rubber grip tape that removes cleanly and completely when done.
- Tear off a couple pieces and wrap one around the bezel and other around the head. This allows for much better grip.
- Still not enough? ā¦ apply plastic-jawed pliers on top of the grip tape.
- Donāt have plastic jawed pliers? Cut a piece of 0.032ā sheet aluminum and bend it into a U shape, then wrap it around your light above the grip tape. Apply regular pliers on top of the sheet aluminum.
- Apply muscles to unscrew.
- Once open use a metal pick to remove the threadlocker from the threads.
- Do mod, reassemble, remove grip tape.
Iāve generally found that this technique is sufficient to break most threadlocker used in lights. The only brand Iāve tried this doesnāt work on is Fenix. They seem to squeeze a whole tube of red threadlocker into their threads.
For lights where mechanical pressure doesāt work you may need a blowtorch or oven to loosen the threadlocker. Then Iām guessing silicone or leather gloves to insulate the hot metal as you unscrew. Iāve never tried this method so do not know the best technique when applying heat.
Heating helps even if it isnāt blazing hot when you unscrew. I think it breaks it down a little each time.
To heat the light, put it in the sun for an hour or two. or, dip flashlight bezel in hot boiled water for a minuteā¦
then use leather wrap and vise grips
.
or use strap wrenches:
.
Also important to note to NOT use a plain vise or anything that would squish either head or body out-of-round, because then youāll never get it off.
I would not advise to dip it into water! Iād say that it is more risky than heating it with sun heat or even a lighter.
If there is any leak into the driver, it may result in damage when turning the flashlight ON.
Heat and force (vise, leather wraps) = YES; Hot water = NOT so much.
Just my perspective of course
He only dips the bezel part. Thatās my method also. First whole head of light to freezer to shrink. Then just quick dip of bezel to boiling water. Bezel expanses when rest of the head is still shrinken.
Ok, I was just being cautious with that, because for someone unexperienced, it may result in failure. :+1:
I also use the boiling water method but the parts are in a plastic bag when they are dipped in the water. Iām pretty sure jon_slider also uses this method.
I will try it today.But the usb port is thereā¦Need to be carefull,ā¦
Just Dip the Tipā¦ or use protection :innocent:
:smiling_imp:
Tried out a weird Osram emitter (S2WN) in my S2+
Swapped Convoy 519A 4500Ks into my Jaxman i2, YLP Unicorn, and Lumzoo GH10