Emisar D3AA is available now

[mcflies]

Hi Hank. Random question. How do you prevent particles from getting on the reflectors/lens when you assemble? Is your lab pressurized? Any recommendations to help prevent contamination? Thanks.

[xevious (Gary)]

@Mark M

The amber color comes out really good, very even brightness. Also very dim when on low which is great at night.

Good to know that. I think I’m going to go amber instead of warm white.

[Hank_Wang]

@thefreeman

@Jensen

I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn’t functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have “fixed” this but I really hope I didn’t damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.

This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow.

I think this is the common issue for the B35AM LED itself, the MCPCB is the best that we can produce, and there is no soldering issue whatever.
The LED will not die at high current (3.6A), but the smoke will come out on turbo mode.
We plan to reduce the current of the B35AM LED, this is the only way to prevent the smoke, only that the output will be reduced as well unfortunately.

[m03da (a bear.)]

@xevious

I think I’m going to go amber instead of warm white.

It looks great too, especially on a cyan body imo!

[Hank_Wang]

@thefreeman

@Hank Wang

@zak.wilson

I was just suggesting the DW4 with SST-20 660nm to a friend for darkroom use. I’m curious as to why the boost driver can’t be used with those emitters. Vf too low?

It does work actually, only that the moon mode is just too bright, almost like medium mode, so, you can only ramp from medium to high mode, other than that, it works fine, I assume it’s because of the low VF.

One resistor needs to be changed for the output voltage to swing across the lower voltage range of red LEDs. The current range is about 8.5V to 14.5V (simulated with the resistor values), fine for white LEDs but doesn’t go low enough for red LEDs.

I talked about it in several comments in this Reddit thread

Thanks for the information, we have changed the resistors on the driver, now the SST-20 deep red LEDs work perfectly fine with the boost driver.

[Hank_Wang]

UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1

[tactical_grizzly]

@Hank Wang

UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1

Very cool! Will this be an option for KR1 as well? What driver is being used for the UV emitter?

[Hank_Wang]

@tactical_grizzly

@Hank Wang

UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1

Very cool! Will this be an option for KR1 as well? What driver is being used for the UV emitter?

Yes, just added the options for KR1.
It’s linear 1.5A driver.

[puglife2]

when D1S ?

[thefreeman]

@Hank Wang

@thefreeman

One resistor needs to be changed for the output voltage to swing across the lower voltage range of red LEDs. The current range is about 8.5V to 14.5V (simulated with the resistor values), fine for white LEDs but doesn’t go low enough for red LEDs.

I talked about it in several comments in this Reddit thread

Thanks for the information, we have changed the resistors on the driver, now the SST-20 deep red LEDs work perfectly fine with the boost driver.

[maba]

D4SV2 / KR1 / D1 v2 / D4

[NoneTheWiser]

@puglife2

when D1S ?

Here is a link to a review of the D1S from 2017.

[kokosnh]

@Hank Wang

@thefreeman

@Jensen

I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn’t functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have “fixed” this but I really hope I didn’t damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.

This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow.

I think this is the common issue for the B35AM LED itself, the MCPCB is the best that we can produce, and there is no soldering issue whatever. The LED will not die at high current (3.6A), but the smoke will come out on turbo mode. We plan to reduce the current of the B35AM LED, this is the only way to prevent the smoke, only that the output will be reduced as well unfortunately.

Well just received My D1 mini B35AM 4000K (cold white aux), and I can confirm that it's smoking on turbo. But to be honest it doesn't bothering me at all. It even look nice, as the smoke swirls inside the reflector.
There's a visible tint shift, from low to high mode. opple measured around 250K shift, from around 3800K on low to around 4050K on high. opple isn't very accurate, so I average it measurements (take it with a grain of salt).

Turbo - 5.6A
Moon - 7030µA
Aux off - 67µA
Aux on Low - 76µA
Aux on High - 260µA
it jumps +200µA every 8 seconds or so for brif moment, from my understanding, that's just the driver waking up to check the voltage.




And well, to be honest, it's not so smaller than my 21700 flashlights...
the beam is quite nice, but the spill diameter is rather tight compared to my other flashlights.

[Valynor]

@kokosnh

Well just received My D1 mini B35AM 4000K (cold white aux), and I can confirm that it's smoking on turbo. But to be honest it doesn't bothering me at all. It even look nice, as the smoke swirls inside the reflector.

To be honest I think you should bother for these two reasons:

-something is vaporising from the LED and it's most likely not good for the LED in the long term

-the smoke will settle on the reflector and lens and reduce brightness/throw

[kokosnh]

@Valynor

@kokosnh

Well just received My D1 mini B35AM 4000K (cold white aux), and I can confirm that it’s smoking on turbo. But to be honest it doesn’t bothering me at all. It even look nice, as the smoke swirls inside the reflector.

To be honest I think you should bother for these two reasons:

-something is vaporising from the LED and it's most likely not good for the LED in the long term

-the smoke will settle on the reflector and lens and reduce brightness/throw

Well, you were right. I think it settle on the reflector, when I had it laying on my desk yesterday, so it settle on half of it for now. The other half of the reflector looks mostly OK.

Yeah that is not how the reflectors should look like. Don't Turbo B35AM guys.

[ExtraCat]

@kokosnh

@Valynor

@kokosnh

Well just received My D1 mini B35AM 4000K (cold white aux), and I can confirm that it’s smoking on turbo. But to be honest it doesn’t bothering me at all. It even look nice, as the smoke swirls inside the reflector.

To be honest I think you should bother for these two reasons:

-something is vaporising from the LED and it’s most likely not good for the LED in the long term

-the smoke will settle on the reflector and lens and reduce brightness/throw

Well, you were right. I think it settle on the reflector, when I had it laying on my desk yesterday, so it settle on half of it for now. The other half of the reflector looks mostly OK.

Yeah that is not how the reflectors should look like. Don’t Turbo B35AM guys.

Does it smoke at top of default ramp too or just during turbo?
…I have a D1 b35am in the mail right now :S

[kokosnh]

@ExtraCat

Does it smoke at top of default ramp too or just during turbo? …I have a D1 b35am in the mail right now :S

Tested it for 15 minutes...
It's ok at top of default ramp, no smoke on my unit. So just don't Turbo.
But do test it and adjust the max ramp, if you have a smoke on yours.

Ps. I'm starting to look at it, as I look on the FW21 Pro XHP50.2, that can literally desolder itself if you turbo it couples of times...
Turbo is there, but don't use it if you don't have to.

[puglife2]

Hi Hank!! I would like to buy a dedomed 2700k 519A brass D1 with a brass OP reflector for a nice golden hue thx in advance

[Limsup]

Wow… I didn’t notice the smoke on the reflector first, but I see it now. I put the photos by kokosnh posted here and put it side by side and marked what I think has been caused by the smoke.

Maybe I should smoke the LED without the reflector first until the smoke stops? Does the smoke stop after a while? My D1 with B35AM is in the mail.

[Jensen]

@Limsup

Wow… I didn’t notice the smoke on the reflector first, but I see it now. I put the photos by kokosnh posted here and put it side by side and marked what I think has been caused by the smoke.

Maybe I should smoke the LED without the reflector first until the smoke stops? Does the smoke stop after a while? My D1 with B35AM is in the mail.

I think the manufacturers of these aluminum coated reflectors spray some kind of sealant on the inside to prevent the aluminum from oxidizing, and that’s what you see when you turn on the light at a high level. I have seen the same stuff on a Malkoff P60 dropin so I’m pretty sure it’s that.

Also that is the advice Hank gave me to deal with the smoking. I just kept turboing with the lens/bezel/reflector off until the smoke stopped. Set the temperature limit higher than what you actually want so you can be sure it can’t smoke again when you actually use it. I set it to 50C and then keep it at default, 45C, normally. The B35AM didn’t seem to be damaged by this at all.