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Well just received My D1 mini B35AM 4000K (cold white aux), and I can confirm that it's smoking on turbo. But to be honest it doesn't bothering me at all. It even look nice, as the smoke swirls inside the reflector.
There's a visible tint shift, from low to high mode. opple measured around 250K shift, from around 3800K on low to around 4050K on high. opple isn't very accurate, so I average it measurements (take it with a grain of salt).

Turbo - 5.6A
Moon - 7030”A
Aux off - 67”A
Aux on Low - 76”A
Aux on High - 260”A
it jumps +200”A every 8 seconds or so for brif moment, from my understanding, that's just the driver waking up to check the voltage.




And well, to be honest, it's not so smaller than my 21700 flashlights...
the beam is quite nice, but the spill diameter is rather tight compared to my other flashlights.

To be honest I think you should bother for these two reasons:

-something is vaporising from the LED and it's most likely not good for the LED in the long term

-the smoke will settle on the reflector and lens and reduce brightness/throw




Well, you were right. I think it settle on the reflector, when I had it laying on my desk yesterday, so it settle on half of it for now. The other half of the reflector looks mostly OK.

Yeah that is not how the reflectors should look like. Don't Turbo B35AM guys.



Does it smoke at top of default ramp too or just during turbo?

I have a D1 b35am in the mail right now :S


Tested it for 15 minutes...
It's ok at top of default ramp, no smoke on my unit. So just don't Turbo.
But do test it and adjust the max ramp, if you have a smoke on yours.

Ps. I'm starting to look at it, as I look on the FW21 Pro XHP50.2, that can literally desolder itself if you turbo it couples of times...
Turbo is there, but don't use it if you don't have to.

Hi Hank!! I would like to buy a dedomed 2700k 519A brass D1 with a brass OP reflector for a nice golden hue :cowboy_hat_face: thx in advance

Wow
 I didn’t notice the smoke on the reflector first, but I see it now. I put the photos by kokosnh posted here and put it side by side and marked what I think has been caused by the smoke.

Maybe I should smoke the LED without the reflector first until the smoke stops? Does the smoke stop after a while? My D1 with B35AM is in the mail.

I think the manufacturers of these aluminum coated reflectors spray some kind of sealant on the inside to prevent the aluminum from oxidizing, and that’s what you see when you turn on the light at a high level. I have seen the same stuff on a Malkoff P60 dropin so I’m pretty sure it’s that.

Also that is the advice Hank gave me to deal with the smoking. I just kept turboing with the lens/bezel/reflector off until the smoke stopped. Set the temperature limit higher than what you actually want so you can be sure it can’t smoke again when you actually use it. I set it to 50C and then keep it at default, 45C, normally. The B35AM didn’t seem to be damaged by this at all.

Can you enable the option to pay using a credit card without logging in with a Paypal account? I’ve been having Paypal account trouble and was unable to make an order.



Well I wouldn't be alarmed if it wasn't only one side that looks like this. The pictures are from the same time, just the flashlight rotated 180, to see the other side of the reflector.
Unfortunately I didn't check how the reflector looked like before the smoke, so I can't be shure that's from smoke.
The reflector looks ok, If you just look at it, without the LED ON.
The beam profile isn't deformed (the inner circle has some artefacts, but they are symmetrical, and looks like it from the square of the LED)

I tried smoking it without the reflector, but well I'm one 18650 deplited, and it still smokes sometimes. Will charge some 18650 and try again more on the weekend.

The one think that was strange, was that I had it on turbo without the reflector, after a while it dropped some lumens, but then out of nowhere it ramp up again a little (but it was visibly in 2 steps that it increases brightness), and started smoking.
It wasn't actively cooled, and was just sitting on the desk, so It should only lower the output, and not increase it.

I had that kind of residue build-up in Convoy with the same smoking problem. I even swapped new reflector in and it did that residue to it as well.

Does anyone have a smoke issue with DM11? Or it just is not as visible with TIR?

I’m wondering what’s the difference between D1 and DM11 causing smoke on the one and not on the other?

I just tested my B35AM DM11 with the optic removed, and am sad to report that it is indeed smoking on Turbo.

Also worth noting my B35 D4VS2 does not have this issue.

Hmm
that’s not good. What do you think would be a safe output limit for these?

As I said, the smoking issue has nothing to do with the soldering, or the driver,
it’s just that the B35AM can not take high current.
But on the other hand, the smoking issue does not affect the performance or to damage the LEDs,
since there is no B35AM LED failure issue so far.
D4S V2 B35AM version does not have smoking issue since the current is really low for
each LED, only 1A.
The only way to eliminate this smoking issue is to lower the current, which unfortunately, it will reduce the output as well.

3Amp is the safe maximum for an extended period of time as tested by Clemence and others last year...

Let me share my findings with my DM11 (B35AM 2700K, 6V/3.6A driver).

  • Temperature Limit = 70°C, with enough cooling applied, from off to Turbo: no thermal regulation is triggered, however the self-protection of the boost chip is triggered after ~20 seconds (the light blinks, the higher the temperature, the faster it blinks so as to reduce the temperature).
  • Temperature Limit = 60~70°C, no cooling applied, from off to Turbo: the self-protection of the boost chip is triggered before the thermal regulation reduces the output effectively.
  • Temperature Limit = 50°C, no cooling applied, Turbo after a few minutes of use: the self-protection of the boost chip is NOT triggered, however thermal regulation happens very soon (~5 seconds).
  • Temperature Limit = 50°C, no cooling applied, from off to level 140/142/150 (which are about 75%/80%/100% energy of the max output, respectively), the thermal regulation works as follows:
  • Therefore, I personally believe level 140 is a more reasonable max output one should use, since higher levels give quite few gain in lumens but much more heat and really shorter usable period.

  • I also tested the accumulated runtime of level 140 and 142. This kind of measurement is done by turning from off to that level, applying cooling, and turning the light off when thermal regulation or the self-protection of the boost chip happens, waiting until the light is completely cold, then start again.
  • As shown above, the difference in brightness between level 140 and 142 is NOT noticeable, but level 140 runs much cooler and sustains much longer before thermal regulation or the self-protection of the boost chip happens.

Can i take the boost driver on a 519A D4SV2 ?

Yesterday I ran a couple tests and found that level 140 did not cause smoking to occur, though 145 caused a small amount. It does not seem affected by temperature, just current - I raised the thermal limit to 55C and ran the light on level 140 with repeated jumps to ceiling, then on momentary turbo (140) until it got very hot and still saw no smoke.

On level 140, I am getting ~1,330 lumens, where before my 5000K B35Am was producing 1,600 on turbo.


The fix for this in Anduril2:

Advanced mode, when on, press 10H > wait for the 4th blink, then do nothing. This will deactivate Turbo and set max output to ceiling. Then when on, 7H > 2nd blink > press 1C and then 1H to set ceiling to 140. Do this second step for both stepped and smooth ramping.

I’ll do a quick video on this too to hopefully get the word out more.

Thank you toobadorz and LuxWad for the quality research and the detailed solution to the problem! I really appreciate them.