Agree with all except the ramp call in the bottom right.
The issue with ramped clips is that they make it too easy to scratch up car doors when getting in/out or passing through a parking lot.
Can you be more specific? I don’t understand how you can have a pocket clip without a ramp. By ramp, I mean some kind of opening at the mouth of the clip to grab your pants material. Without a ramp it would just lay flat against the side of the light and you’d have to lift it up every time you want to pocket the light. Can you provide an example of a pocket clip that handles this ramp area better?
I guess I should elaborate. The ramp sticks out too much, the slope should be minimal. For examples, I had this Ausus Knife and it scratched up the shit out of everything because its clip sticks out.
But this knife that I use now doesn’t give me a problem:
The clip in your mockup sticks out too much consider squeezing between two tight cars in a parking lot with that shape sticking out of your pocket.
When I tried it, the light started flickering, the same way it does when pressing the button on a TS10 that has been physically locked out
I later realized my TS10 had been reset, all my floors and ceilings had gone back to default. I just spent some quality time multiclicking and checking outputs on my light meter… I really should make a backup of my custom TS10 Anduril settings…
I like
ceilings at 110/150
floors at 1/150
1H from off to give floor and NOT start ramping automatically
I disable 2C to Turbo, so 2C only gives ceiling
thermal limit set to 50C
ramping speed option 2 (slower)
manual memory set to 10 lumens, with 10 minute hybrid memory
moral of the story… its not nice to fool w TS10/FWAA headswaps
===
Thanks for your drawings and ideas.
I want to focus on your 3mm gap mentioned earlier. I think a measurement for the ramp of the clip tip, is also helpful to specify.
I do lift the blade of the E05C to help it over the edge of my pocket… the clip ramp is very short, just 2.0mm, and sudden, and is only 1.7mm above the body of the light. It is not ideal.
The tip of the clip on the TCR-1 on the right, sits 2mm above the body, plus the ramp is 7mm long. That is a very convenient gap, for my jeans (pocket seam material is 2.2mm thick) and light slacks I wear (pocket seam 1.5mm). That is my favorite pocket clip.
So I propose redrawing your pictured clip w 2mm ramp height off the body, with a 7mm long ramp, and 3mm gap at the top of the garment curve. See if that produces a more compact profile, more suitable for the size of the TS10.
I do wear baseball caps, and I do clip lights to my baseball cap, instead of wearing a dedicated headlamp. But I agree with others comments that the stock TS10/SC21 Pro/SP10 Pro clip is almost too small to be useable on a hat brim because the gap at the curve of the clip is so narrow, 2.7mm, it barely pushes onto a baseball cap brim, which is 4mm thick.
Sorry trying to catch up on 30 pages here, but hard to find information on these CSP2323 emitters.
Sounds like they are high CRI. Are they known more for flood than throw?
How is efficiency compared to SST20 or LH351d?
Could someone please measure the parasitic drain of TS10 Aux on blinking mode?
just wondering how many days to drain a battery if using blinking Aux…
fwiw, I do have the LVP patch installed, but it still makes me wonder how long a battery will last, even with LVP.
for example, battery life on Bright Aux is less than 5 days, even with LVP… that is not a useful mode.
I don’t think you can measure it with a multimeter like with the low or high mode. When you measure it, the current changes with each blink, there would not be a stable current to read at all. I am not sure how we can measure it accurately.
It is not useful as an always-on aux for a flashlight on a shelf, no.
However it can be useful for reading a map while preserving night vision (in the case of the red aux). Or creating some ambiance in a dark room.
There will never be unanimous agreement about how bright an aux light should be, due to differing use cases. I think a low that is very low and a high that is quite high… this is a reasonable compromise.
If they made the High aux significantly less bright, so that it can last many months of battery… then essentially you would have two low modes, instead of high and low.
Extrapolating parasitic drain is often off by a lot. In my opinion, there is no substitution to measuring long-term drain since the drain level will typically be lower as the battery voltage drops.
For example, I did a long-term drain test for the TS10 and found the ice blue aux to reduce the standard Wurkkos battery from 4.18V to 2.90V in exactly 7 days. The drain is still too high to be practical but it’s a sizeable difference from 4.5 days.
I’m doing long-term drain tests on all my lights with electronic switches (1 month and 2 month tests).
I’m of the opinion that high aux should last at least 1 month. The TS10 drains from 4.2 down to 3.9 in just one day which is a crazy amount. The D4 levels are perfect for me.
Ok thanks. Probably lasts twice as long as bright aux. no biggie. I will only use low aux
Thanks
Your Blue aux seems to last a couple days longer than red.
I disagree, with two measurements at 4.2V and 2.8V like I’ve done you get a good enough estimation of how long it’ll last.
Here I took some measurements with a different light. As you can see, the average power consumption of blinking shouldn’t be much more than constant low.
discount gone on this now?
Coupon code does not work!
Sorry it works & order placed!
I know I’m late to the party, but I just ordered a black 5800k, ice blue auxs (the only version in stock). I’m not waiting any longer to get my hands on one. I am looking forward to it, but by the same token, I share the same reservations as a lot of other members, i.e. better driver, better pocket clip, better/more led choices, better anodizing, etc., but I’m going for it anyway. For $20.00, what the hell, why not? I’ll probably buy additional led/body finishes as they become available.
Wurrkos, I’ll reiterate what many others have said here. Give us a better driver, please. A lot of us, including me, are really over the “FET fad”. It really does make little sense in a light like this. I own numerous Wurrkos lights and will continue to support you, but that’s my $0.02.
Actually, it’s our fault. Wurrkos came here before they produced the light asking us what driver we wanted. While there was feedback on all sides, FET driver got the most support. So that’s what Wurrkos gave us.
It was only after it came out that many decided a boost driver would have been better.
Can I use flat top battery?
Yes, you’re right. I didn’t even consider that. Maybe on future runs… One can hope.
Still, for a twenty dollar light, I’m pretty jazzed about getting one, like I need another light.
Which coupon did you use on which site?