TimMc,
congrats on your RRT-01 mod and
thanks for the link to your photo tutorial
absolutely excellent info, including the great beam profile photo, and the duv data
Thank you jon_slider!
Thanks mattlward!
Curious how the tail spring looks in yours. Is mine missing a part holding the spring, or is that just how the Menards woody flashlights were built?
A torch enthusiast in Australia asked if I could swap a dedomed Nichia 519A sm353 3500K emitter into their ReyLight Pineapple Copper.
I asked Rey, the man behind ReyLight, if removing the MCPCB would be difficult due to thermal compound. Rey kindly replied and assured me that it is easier to remove compared to the MCPCB in the Pineapple Mini.
I have swapped the emitter in my own Pineapple Mini so I agreed to swapping one in the Pineapple.
I soldered spacers into the pills for 3 Convoy S2+ triple builds Iām working on. Nothing picture worthy. Emitters will be 219b SW35k, 219b SW27k and Cree XP-E2 660nm Deep Red.
Last week I had some free time, so these things came out 
S2+ with triple SST-20 660 nm:
Also recently I got package from mouser with two different XHP50.3.
- XHP50D-H0-0000-0D0UH245G - 90+ CRI 4500K, HI version
- XHP50D-00-0000-0D0HH445G - 80+ CRI 4500K, domed version.
First one went into M21B with Convoy 6V 3A driver, OP reflector and clear glass.
Second one was first sliced, then installed into C8S, H1-A 3A driver, OP reflector and green AR coated glass.
Measured data with Opple Light Master (flashlights were somewhere on medium level) and UNI-T UT383:
I do like sliced 80 CRI, Opple says its 4057K now. Even with slicing, lux are still higher than XHP50.3 90 CRI version. Almost 50 KCD is not bad. However, beams from both of these leds are not as perfect as XHP35 in Zebralight. Itās not visible in pictures, and tbh only slightly visible in real life, but coronas have a bit more positive duv than hotspot.
[quote=Haukkeli]
I donāt have any ācoolā knives. Only utilitarian ones. That doesnāt mean I donāt like them. Area that I live in Finland is known for traditional Finnish knife making. I would like to buy one of ātheseā:Tommi-puukko ā Wikipedia one day. Sorry, that Wiki article is only in Finnish, maybe Google translate can help.[/quote
Yep ...very pretty indeed
Stumbled across these pics on the internet ... and now I want one .
Djozz, I hear ya brother! Knives and flashlights take up so much space, lol.
I remember, years ago, showing a new light to my neighbor. His wife asked, kind of in awe, āHow many flashlights do you have?ā I said 30. She freaked, āHow many flashlights does one person NEED?ā I told her, 31! 
It was always about the next one! I have sold a great many lights, and still have a couple hundred.
Looking through these mods of late, I see stuff like I used to do! Copper plates bearing quads, fuel rail heavy gauge leads running to multiple emitters like a true hot rod engineā¦. Keep up the good work guys!
The last lighted switch order I got from Convoy was disappointing.
The Omten switches were very off center!
Just for the fun of it, I tried to install one in an S2+ but I wasnāt able to since I couldnāt tighten the retaining ring. Iāve never had this issue before with the many, many orders Iāve received previously. The worker mustāve been very tired (or drunk)?
Rather than contacting Simon and waiting for replacements (which Iām sure Simon wouldāve honored), I took 2 soldering irons, added some flux, and quickly moved the switches to the center.
Not sure what kind of plastic the switches are made of, but is very easily melted. Apparently I didnāt move one of switches quick enough since it felt kind of weird afterwards, so I had to replace it.
I also added spring bypasses and changed the SMD LEDs to make custom colors.
Very risky heating both sides at once! The metal tabs conduct that heat to the inside snd can quickly melt down the housing. I usually hold the tab with tweezers or hemostats to act as a heat sink, lift one tab then address the other. Remove the switch entirely to swap the tint leds.
Good advice DB Custom.
In the past I had a supply of new switches rather than trying to resolder them. Installing them 1 tab at a time (and still quickly) is pretty easy.
Fortunately I have plenty of back-ups nowadays.
Did a few mods to my Sofirn IF25A.
- Sliced the LEDs. I donāt have any way to measure, but seems like more throw, slightly lower DUV / CCT.
- Added some minus green. The tint is now to my liking but I have some 519A LEDs I may swap for instead.
- Modified an Emisar KR4 pocket clip for it. I think this light is a little chunky for pocket carry but at least the clip stops the light from rolling away. If you want to use the same clip it will take some sanding to enlarge the opening by about 1mm. It does become quite thin but I donāt think it will be a problem. The clip is a little too thick for the tailcap to make contact. Youāll either need to sand down the clip slightly or add a spacer in the tailcap. If you add a spacer, make sure itās no so thick that the o-ring no longer does its job.
The pocket clip looks really good James C! Looks like it can still tail stand too.
Thanks! The clip extends past the tailcap by about 2mm, but it can still tailstand (angled and a little wobbly). I think a magnet epoxied on there would be the perfect fixā¦
I wonder if the assembly workers actually have to bend the contacts when they install the switches? I havenāt handled a ton of them but they always seem pretty uniform in the bends and dimensionsā¦never been sure exactly which switch it is because they only say 1288 on them and there are several submodels for that footprint. Looking at their page, lots of details are missing on most items but in the pics you can see that some models have a bend that is very close to the switch body while others are the usual 1.2mm or so, giving a little space. Iāll have to snoop through my switches to look at this. It might be worth letting Simon know. Maybe they had to accept a substitute model and the workers need to adjust when they install compared to the usual, or something like that.
I kind of thought these were polypropylene but they could be an acetal variety, tooā¦theyāre not nylon.
Category page: Illuminated Metal Pushbutton Switch - China Omten Electronics
Not a very difficult job, removing the pill of my Lan/pineapple was the most difficult part for me.
The ones Iāve purchased in the past I needed to bend the contacts down and cut them at the bottom of the switch. Pretty easy to do. BUT, I still had to center the switch on the board before I soldered them which is also pretty easy to do.
Good link for the switches, didnāt know Omten had that many options for the 1288 switch.
I probably shouldāve let Simon know and most likely others have already, but at less than $1.25 per lighted switch shipped all the way from China that also includes a translucent spacer and clear tailcap, itās hard to complain! For me it was a minor inconvenience, but I can see for non-modders that it could be an issue.
I wanted to make my Nightwatch NS59v1 a bit better. So I swapped in XHP50.3 HI 90cri emitters. 5000K *5 + 4000K *4. It was very simple job, but outcome is really good.
6m away with indirect sunlight. Second highest mode.
Some measurements
That doesnāt look like a simple job to me Haukkeli - Very impressive!