Hello guys! It’s been quite some time since the boost driver was released. Does anyone have any real measurements of performance and sustained output between fet linear and new boost driver in Hanks 4x leds flashlights? Is the loss of performance worth it? I’ve seen posts on reddit claiming that the sustainable output is almost unchanged.
Tactical Grizzly made a direct comparison of the D4Sv2 linear and boost with CULPM1 LEDs : Emisar D4SV2 Review – Three Versions Compared! – Grizzly's Reviews
Thank you so much! I didn’t follow the r/flashlights as much over the summer and missed it!
Last question, has there been any hints of a new boost driver or even an updated D4 from Hank?
As far as I could figure out to fit a bigger inductor (which would be able to give up to 3A to the each LED) it only needs a few millimeters longer body of flashlight. Hank could get rid of this variety of drivers at once and get the perfect flashlight…
The D4V2 looks to achieve many of these things - with the optional boost driver.
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Everything except its limit due to the small inductor is only 2A per led. That’s the only reason so many of us still have doubts about which version to take. The more practical or the hotrod toy.
How can I order the new kr4 boost driver?
On the order page, there’s a 12$ upgrade optio
Hey!
What if I order new D1 with FC-40 - what driver Hank will choose? I do not see option to add boost driver on the D1 flashlight page but I think it should be there or Im wrong?
And are fc-40 4000-4500k from Hank good bins? I’ve seen some fc-40 have a beautiful pink tint almost like nichia. That’s what I’d like to get with 4000k option. 
Btw am I right in assuming that the fc-40 will be more bright than the dd519a?
The quad-emitter lights can have the LED’s wired differently for different drivers, but that’s not possible with one emitter. So there are no user-selectable driver options for single emitter lights like D1(V2).
GT-FC40 is a 12V-only emitter so it has to come with a boost driver. The same is true for B35AM.
GT-FC40 in D1(V2) will produce about twice as many lumens as a dedomed 519A in a D1(V2).
FWIW I have not found any of the FC40’s I’ve tested (one in an E70, one in a KR1, one in a M21D, and eight in an X50) to have pink tint. They’ve all been neutral to slightly green tinted.
If you want a light from Hank with pink tint and a boost driver, get one of the quad emitter lights with dedomed 519A’s and the boost driver upgrade.
Hmmmm
This is beamshot from 1lumen review D1v2 with 5k fc-40 inside
This one from reddit. 4K looks very good!
Rosy! Maybe they are different from batch to batch?
i did a reflector comparison yesterday with my 519A D1, they comes with SMO by default but personally i prefer OP
^ OP ^
^ SMO ^
^ OP ^
^ SMO ^
^ OP ^
^ SMO ^
^ OP ^
^ SMO ^
^ OP ^
^ SMO ^
^ OP ^
^ SMO ^
^ OP ^ sorry i missed this shot 
^ SMO ^
OP wins. Personally, I hate the bright yellow stain in the middle.
Guys, I would really appreciate your beamshots of the D1 with the FC-40.
I just got my D1 with the 4000k-4500k FC-40 in it. The tint is below the BBL which is nice.
The sustained lumens seem to be around 330 lumens. I get about 1750 at startup but after about 10 minutes, I get 330 lumens.
This seems really low for this boost driver. The D1 I have with the B35AM can sustain over 700 lumens no problem. Anyone else have any performance measurements?
When I tested KR1 with FC40 I found sustained output to be around 500 lumens (after calibration and with the stock thermal ceiling of 45C), so 350 does seem a bit low. Do both of your lights have identical thermal settings (both calibrated and with the same thermal ceiling)?
I just found your review before you posted, they are both at the same thermal calibration from factory. The FC40 settled around 56C. Both verified with an IR thermometer, the cell voltage may have been a bit low on the FC40 but being a boost driver and all I wouldn’t think it would have much to do with it.
I was surprised because I thought it would be more like 1000 sustained lumens, until I read your review. Now I am not too concerned, I guess I just thought it would be more efficient than the Nichia. Nothing to be concerned about now that I know. I’ll double check all measurements tomorrow.
Perhabs you can try the 700lm by start with 700lm directly, because if you start on turbo the big LED make a lot of heat for this small flashlight … and it need sorry a long time to cool down and increase the output again …
I always set 60deg thermal ceiling so i get plenty of output steady.
Since i’m using all my flashlights at work having it that warm doesn’t concern me much unlike other folks that are using them casually.
Make sure to do thermal calibration on all your Anduril lights when you receive them. Factory calibration is often wildly off and can cause huge variations in performance. If your light is SETTLING at 56C with a stock thermal ceiling of 45C then it’s not calibrated.
That might explain why B35AM performed so much better for you, since it’s possible that light thinks its running a lot cooler than it actually is. I measured about 350 lumens sustained output from a B35AM in a DM11 after calibration and with the stock 45C thermal limit, fwiw.
I always set them to 55C when I get them.
Did you calibrate them? That’s a different setting than adjusting the thermal ceiling.