FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

I’ve ended up with two of the elusive purple TK-editions. Both have the plastic tail retaining ring, two-step lockout brightness, and full three channels.

I haven’t heard of any middle revisions with 6 7135s on the underside that don’t have three channels. So it sounds like a good one.

I rarely use them anymore. Eventually the switches got unreliable, I believe due to tube contact issues. My KR4 took over their duties. The sprung tube is just superior.

Thank you for such a detailed explanation!
Looks like i got 2nd version despite the fact that I bought it last week on aliexpress (SST-20 black). Or maybe there are 5th version with all channels back in place?
Also the button is all great, clicky and reliable. Hope it will stay that way.

Also I got 2 step brightness on lockout. Moon on 1H, somewhat brighter on 2H. But none of the 3H, 4H etc doesn’t work (I mean it’s all moon).

And 1 more thing. I also got bunny on the button. Whed do they start doing it?

Does kapton tape solve shorting problems?

Recap:
My FW3A with 18350 tube would periodically start shorting out after loosening/tightening the tube for physical lockouts. I’d have to “fiddle” with it… wiping down the tube, using a cotton swab on the mcpcb… and usually that would work. But then I had a bizarre instance of my FW3A suddenly turning itself on to turbo in the middle of the night (thankfully I’d pointed it towards me before falling asleep, so the bright beam woke me up before it seriously overheated). THAT was the last straw. I stopped using it.

Someone had suggested applying some kapton tape to the very end of the tube. Kapton is strong, extremely thin tape that insulates as well if not better than your typical electrical tape. I’d misplaced my roll… couldn’t recall where I’d put it. So periodically I’d look around. FINALLY, I found it. So I applied kapton tape to the tube, aligning the edge of the tape to the edge of the forward end of the tube and made one good 360 degree wrap with some overlap. It seems to work. I can loosen and tighten the FW3A repeatedly and it works fine.

The only exception I’m finding is that if I screw down the tube extra tight, it shorts out. As long as I don’t screw down quite that firmly, it’s OK.

i just put 3 narrow strips of black tape at the 2 ends of the ‘signal tube’

[a whole 3/4” wide circle of tape, was too thick to go back in the light]

wle

I actually wrapped the whole circumference of the signal tube front end with kapton tape. Just snug enough to still enter the chamber. The tail end of the tube doesn’t have a metal retainer, so there’s no issue there. But actually I’m thinking I should apply a few strips along the length of the tube to help a little more with centering.

Hi! I have a very strange issue. I guess I mess something up and now I have only 1 brightness level when locked (moon). 2h doesn’t work anymore (it’s also moon).
How is this even possible and how can I fix it?

OMG I found the answer FW3A Lockout question
So 2h gives you floor of stepped mode. That’s smart, too bad it’s not in the manual. :slight_smile:

sounds like you are in lockout mode
try 6 clicks

if that does not work, unscrew head and put back [reboot]

I wish they would have printed the full Anduril manual

who is ‘they’?

the whole thing is online

ANDURIL USER MANUAL & LIST OF LIGHTS
https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/view/head:/ToyKeeper/spaghetti-monster/anduril/anduril-manual.txt

lumintop

The kapton tape seems to have helped but it’s not a 100% reliable fix. I still periodically have problems with my FW3A on 18350 tube after battery changes. I do manage to work them out, but it’s an annoyance. OTOH, my FW3A with 18650 tube is rock solid. NO PROBLEM whatsoever.

I modeled a replacement button membrane last night. When printed in TPE it has nice tactile feel and good fit.

That is so cool.

Follow-up on my FW3A 18350 woes.

It dawned on me that I have a spare aluminum 18350 body… which has its own tube. I took it and swapped it in place with the copper 18350 tube. The trouble did not go away. I’m surmising that it’s a problem with this format, or there’s some slight deviation with my switch that is causing it. Anyway, long story short, I decided that the fat stubby 18350 format is not my thing. I ditched it for 18500. A nice bump in mAh too. And well, the problem seems to have gone away with this tube change.

The 18500 is not a huge difference in height from the 18650 but something about it is “just enough” to feel more pocketable. And now there are really good 18500 cells with ample mAh. I have a 2500mAh cell in my FW3A. Plus the combo of aluminum with copper tube and stainless bezel has a terrific aesthetic to it.

The design is absolutely dependent on the inner and outer tubes achieving what amounts to a line fit so that the inner tube contacts the driver and tail switch PCBs at the point of maximum tension on the head and tailcap. This could be achieved reliably with higher-precision machining or hand-fitting, but at this price point suspect there’s no margin for either.

The usual solution to this problem would be to make the inner tube a few mm short and use a spring of some sort to take up the slack - such as a wave washer as I gather some other designs have used.

I can see now why NovaTac used a giant tube spring for their flashlights, instead of a hard metal inner tube.

Klarus XT1C using inner tube as well but the tail cap is glued.
I think it’s to avoid miss-alignment of the inner tube or so.

I gutted my SS version.
Gonna be a huge overhaul.
Reverse clicky tailswitch, copper inner tube to give it an actual thermal path.
But it will be hours of work with the die grinder to prepare the shell.
But the SS shell looks so damn good.
I think i can fit a quad in the head too.

Will that transfer more heat to the cell than what may be good/ideal for the cell?