【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

Another wild idea… give us mixed single color aux… iow, one red, one blue, one green… LOL

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Won’t work because of the different forward voltage. Each LED would need its own resistor.

oh well… :beer:

btw, heres a fun one from Adair 21:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/w43vc0/nmd_ts10_limited_edition/
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Adair is killing it with the TS10 mods. He fixed mine up with some E21A’s, a modified firmware so they don’t burn up, and a beefy resistor so the aux LED’s aren’t obnoxiously bright and don’t drain the battery NEARLY as fast.

That auto RGB mod he did to that particular TS10 is unbelievably cool, especially since they start out synced but they slowly desynchronize.

Ages ago, I ordered a bunch of rgb blinkies in 5mm/T1¾ packages, that run off a “soft” voltage (never specified, but can run offa 3V, or 5V through a resistor).

Imagine someone makes smd versions of ’em somewhere…

awesome DIY ,super :+1:

Yes! Make a pocket thrower but keep auxiliaries in the mix.

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0B7RQ5Z4W?th=1
Amazon .de TS10 available now with 20% coupon on page

Micro arc white color make me a little crazy, try this first time , I found that white is not good for protection, it is easy to get dirty and scratched, do other brands have the same problem?picture shows the host of white color

That white looks great.

It also doesn’t surprise me that it shows dirt and scratches easier. White seems to be less durable than blank or dark grey.

Other manufacturers usually use a light gray or creamy white.

Please White 5800k/Red aux

I don’t know about durability but white anything will show dirt easily, especially if it’s a matte finish

MAO (white) is best suited for display pieces or “shelf queens”. Unless it’s clear coated, I can’t see it standing up to every day wear and tear as well as a good ano finish. A week in an active person’s pocket will likely burnish the high points, stain the finish, and look uneven from handling. My (now not functional) MAO Pioneman K36 is nice to look at, but I can already see some spotty discoloration just from the minimal handling it’s had.
If I buy an MAO TS10, it would be as a curio. I would much prefer that silver ano finish from the first batch.

…in my humble opinion, of course. YMMV.

I noticed that the Cyansky P25 V2.0 MAO (review coming soon) has a grey colour with a marble pattern. It isn’t a plain white.

The threads became dark grey after a few weeks of use with lubricant. Sometimes I accidentally get the lubricant from the threads on the tube but it easily wipes off and hasn’t stained. The threads are smooth and it’s easy to get the tailcap on.

The pocket clip scratched the tube when I removed it and it exposed the aluminium. I noticed that some corners around the side switch have aluminium exposed.

I like the feeling if the MAO coating. It’s smooth but not slippery.

Micro-arc oxidation could produce a better coating compared to anodizing. I’m not sure of the exact MAO process that Cyansky and Wurkkos use.

Does the MAO process require more energy and need to take a longer time to produce a stronger coating?

On paper this finishing technique is supposed to be more durable than type III HA (abrasion as well as thickness). I don’t own a light yet with it but I’m a little confused at the replies I’ve gotten from Simon and a couple others as to the thickness of their MAO coatings. Numbers given to me are more like type II HA, which is what we most usually have on our lights and we know isn’t terribly durable. Type III is much more durable but we don’t get that as much in this hobby (even if they sometimes advertise it…ahem). MAO should surpass type III but who knows what they’re actually doing in the process. I’ve decided to wait on buying anybody’s MAO lights until I see how they do in use. Everyone is charging a premium price for it and I would be happy to pay that higher price if I could be assured that the coating is actually up to snuff and an improvement over anodizing (I mean, we know the coating is superior when done correctly, in other product categories). Info doesn’t add up right now. It’s not an easy thing to quantify at home, either, other than observation of wear over time.

From what I’ve read about other countries doing it, it’s less energy and also less pollution (anodizing is actually a pretty nasty process, chemically, all things considered). I suppose it varies by applicator, no idea who the folks that are doing it for Wurkkos, Convoy, etc are or if they may be doing a “reduced cost” process for looks.

Noctigons white finish I don't find very durable, but when I had a Manker mk38 in MAO White It did seem rather durable, at least against normal activity.

Does the aux light always on & cannot be turned off?

Aux light is controlled Anduril 2. You can turn it off. You can also set it to low or high.