With the upper locking assembly completed the next step is to make what is needed to use a screw to secure the back plate to the body. I use whatever scraps and cut-off pieces I have wherever I can. So here I used a larger block and a thinner strip to glue up a spacer block. Once again I used a couple of drops of medium-thick CA plus the accelerator.
With those glued together that assembly was glued to the body.
With that block assembly glued together another thin strip of wenge was sanded to just fit between those blocks and the back plate with minimal clearance. That strip was CA glued to the inside face of the back plate, positioned to be aligned with the block that was glued into the body. This is to reinforce the three glued up back pieces across the padauk glue joint. I intend to drill a hole through the back plate at the narrow band of padauk. It seemed wise to reinforce that.
Here’s the screw hole being drilled.
The hole was countersink for the flat head screw. It is a regular S/S wood screw. A pilot hole was drilled in the block n the body to make insertion of the screw easier and less likely to split the hard wenge.
The next step was to make a slot for the USB-C charger port. Two 3/32” holes were drilled and a chisel, a carving knife, and a small round file were used to enlarge the slot.
I’m holding the port in place in its mounted position for a trial fit. Looks okay to me.
I soldered the driver inside the copper mounting ring. That secures it and completes the circuit from the negative outer ring on the driver to the copper heat-sink unit.
The charger board is TP5000 based. It is a 1 amp version. I affixed the board to the heat-sink tab with a small bead of Arctic Silver epoxy. I have a half tube left and it still works well. I keep it refrigerated.
Then I tested the charger once again just to be certain it worked. I had also tested the driver after soldering it into the mounting ring.
Here are two images showing the assembled heat-sink with the driver, charger, USB port and wires attached.
The next photo shows the trial fit of the heat-sink assembly with the USB-C port connecting wires soldered. The bi-color charge indicator led will be fitted into a 3mm hole I drilled in the back plate. After the wood parts are all clear coated the electronics will be installed and the final wiring done at that time.
Next the wood parts need to be clear coated…