Thanks for the photo. You might like 519a 5700K Dome On (on left)
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Here is Opple comparison of the 519a 5700K compared to daylight where I am. You are located 30 degrees closer to the equator. That may be part of the reason we like different tints ;-):
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Sounds like you have a defective unit. Note that it might not be the tailcap. It could be the back of the tube is too short.
It might be a good idea to test to make sure that the tailcap contact is the problem.
To test, take off the tailcap and insert the battery,
bridge the edge of the body tube to the back of the battery with something conductive like long-nose pliers.
Attempt to turn on the light. If it works, then tailcap contact is confirmed to be the problem.
Assuming the contact between the tailcap and tube is the problem, rather than returning it, there is a simple fix:
Cut a small piece of something conductive, such as bare wire, copper solder braid, even part of a small paperclip.
Bend your conductive material into a “C” ring and fit it into the bottom of the tailcap to act as a spacer between the tailcap and the tube.
Alternative, you can cut sheet copper or brass into a washer shape to accomplish the same thing. I recommend cutting your spacer slightly large so it locks behind the tailcap threads and is less likely to fall out.
This fix should solve the problem and give you a working light.
Thank you Jon_Slider, great information there but looks quite daunting to me! I could pay someone I guess to make one for me, but including the astronomical postage from the USA, I think I will have to make do with my poor cousin version I have put together using Lee Zircon filters…
I think so? This is my first attempt at editing code and compiling. Looking at the notes on the page it seems the latest revision would work for the sp10 pro.
There are no extra pads, you can solder directly on the pins with thin magnet wire but it’s meticulous work. I’ve already done it while debugging drivers. Using a corner pin is less difficult.
Hum…well, when I got home I went to check the spare driver I have and…I guess I would fail completely to solder such thin wires there :o
That thing is tinier than I could remember and my skills and iron and not fit for the job after all
So, I will pass this possibility ti have an SP10 Pro with aux leds. For now
Thanks for your replies folks
Yes, waiting for Tir version. Will be shorter and give better beam with dedomed 519A. Would be nice if they include a kit of 3 type degrees lens, like 15° 45° 90° pebbled.
I have actually tried added an aux led to the SP10 Pro like described above, by soldering a wire directly directly to a pin. It was very difficult but I got it working with a driver that was removed from the light. But the connection so was weak such that when I tested its strength by pulling on it gently, it got disconnected.