Thank you once again for the reply and “directions” 
I will see what I can get and do
If I succed, I will post it here !! And if not…I will post it too 
A reference from the datasheet for those of us who are not intimately familiar with microcontrollers:
This may be handy, thank you contactcr
Hum…well, when I got home I went to check the spare driver I have and…I guess I would fail completely to solder such thin wires there :o
That thing is tinier than I could remember and my skills and iron and not fit for the job after all
So, I will pass this possibility ti have an SP10 Pro with aux leds. For now 
Thanks for your replies folks
All pin 16 17 and 18 look free, so you could solder a wire without caring much about solder brides between those pins.
Yes, waiting for Tir version. Will be shorter and give better beam with dedomed 519A. Would be nice if they include a kit of 3 type degrees lens, like 15° 45° 90° pebbled.
I have actually tried added an aux led to the SP10 Pro like described above, by soldering a wire directly directly to a pin. It was very difficult but I got it working with a driver that was removed from the light. But the connection so was weak such that when I tested its strength by pulling on it gently, it got disconnected.
For example :
32AWG solid wire soldered on two pins, at first I used only one pin and it held well enough, but since the pins are very small it’s easier and likely more robust with on two pins.
Oh man, that is thin!!! Idk, I may risk it. Gotta find the appropriate wire (abroad, local stores don’t have it :person_facepalming: )
Thanks for the inspiration, thefreeman!
And thanks for the report on your experience zumlin !
The usual 30 AWG silicone stranded wire should do as well, especially since as previously mentioned there are 3 consecutive free pins and the wire can be soldered horizontally, soldering on a middle pin is another story. Just put a generous amount of flux.
The enameled wires I often use are those actually it’s 36SWG, which is aprox 33AWG. the solid green insulated wire picture was actcually 30AWG
They also have cheaper 30AWG non colored enameled wire (says 33 but specs correspond to 30).
Edit : with silicone 30AWG :
I always secure the wire with some glue after soldering (but not directly on the solder joint).
@thefreeman
Do you know how these stranded enameled wires are called that are often used in headphone cables? I like to use them in some situations, but my stash of cheap earphones is almost empty.
“magnet wire”
For “magnet wire” I find mostly/only thicker wires with clear enamel coating. But I’m looking for the very thin, colored ones.
The one I listed have colored enamel (they also have 38SWG), but solid wire, not stranded like headphones cables. Searching for stranded enamelled wire gives a couple of results but not colored.
Maybe you would have more luck stripping audio cables with stranded enamelled wires inside, This for example
This is an example of what I get in the US, don’t know how different Germany is
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=magnet+wire+36awg&sprefix=magnet+wire+36awg
Anyone got the SP10S blue and SP10pro blue? Is the anodizing similar? I no longer have my old SP10S blue but I remember it being light blue while the SP10pro is darker blue.
I might be misremembering the color though.
Hi, I have a ramp config question
- 7H from ON has 3 ramp config options, while
- 10H from OFF has 4 config options.
Did anyone discover this part? Does the option 4 has any meaning in the config simple mode ramp config menu?
I’m pretty satisfied with my SP10 Pro (version 2022_04_18), only this minor question remained. It took time for me to understand ramp speed (option 3) does not work for Simple mode, according to Toykeeper’s manual it’s inherited from Advanced. In some versions Option 4 (in the ramp config menu) is the speed parameter, but I learned that for SP10 Pro it is Option 3.
Thank you very much for the help. I didn’t find this information in the manual, my fault.
Good tip. I put glue directly on the solder joint after I soldered a wire directly to a pin on a ATTINY1634 to salvage the aux on a lume1 .