Maybe I missed it, but what driver is in the dual channel D4K? I can’t find what max regulated is.
What’s the actual limitation? The 8A amperage of the boost driver (quad E21A should be fine at 8A though) or something with the board being parallel or not?
Which type of driver is used each LED offering for the D1V2 again? I think I remember the FC-40 gets a boost driver but I can’t remember the rest.
Hello, I just received my D1, with an RGB switch, but I don’t know how to control that button, to choose the color and so that it doesn’t stay on.
I also think I’ve read that it can tell the battery voltage, but I’m not sure.
I hope someone can give me a little help.
Thank you very much, greetings.
GT FC-40 is 12V led, so it's getting 12V boost
B35AM is 6V led, so it's getting 6V boost
XHP70.3Hi is wired for 6V, so it's getting 6V boost
rest is normal 3V led's
Thanks! And do the 3V LEDS get FET+_ drivers on this model?
Thank you very much, I have almost achieved it, but I am new with anduril and it costs me a bit.
Hank, will we see a buck + boost driver from you in the future?
Trading the turbo mode for all the benefits of a boost driver is understandable, but the lack of a proper moonlight mode is too great a sacrifice, at least for me.
A buck-boost driver won’t make the lowest output lower.
Indeed a new a series MCPCB for E17/E21A has to be made, and lowering the output, 2A per LED is IMO too much on Noctigon MCPCBs.
A d18 with something like Sunlike or Optisolis with two switched mode (buck or boost) channels would be very useful for video lighting purposes.
Got my D4K. Mine came with the following:
- White body. I believe this is MAO. It looks like the white from the TS10 MAO pictures … noticeably whiter and less silvery than the white body from my D4v1.
- Cyan switch light with raised switch ring.
- Variable color temp.
- Channel 1: 3500K 519a dedomed
- Channel 2: 5700K 519a dedomed
I originally thought about going with 2700K 519a dedomed in Channel 1, but decided that was probably just too warm. Especially since dedoming seems to reduce color temp by approximately 1000K.
As expected, build quality is excellent. However, the threads at the head were a bit squeaky out-of-the-box. Lubing them up with Nyogel solved the problem.
So far I’m quite pleased with it. It feels great in the hand and the beam pattern, CRI and tint are excellent. Knurling and clip are excellent. Head is the same size as the D4v2 head, but with slight differences in the threads. Finally a 21700 light that is small enough for pocket EDC (barely. If I’m in the mood for a slightly larger than I would normally carry light).
Or just get an LED panel light?
Is there one with an open source firmware on the market?
What inspired you to go with 519A over other options? If 519A wasn’t available, what would’ve been your next choice?
I have the same light. I have SW45K D180 lights. This trumps them. I will own another that is warmer on the lower end. I think dedome is the way to go, if offered. Since offered.
Some thoughts on my newly arrived D1 mini…
That’s looks pretty neat. Do you think SBT.90 is better than W1/W2, in the sense that you get more light and throws just as far?
Having a KR1 with the W2 and the D1 mini with the SBT90.2 my take is:
For throw, I think the W2 is still the sweet spot. the beam is big enough to be useful and it throws really well at all outputs (you wouldn’t believe how far it throws even in moonlight!!). It is also pretty bright at 1200 lumens OTF. But it does require 8 amps on Turbo. Sticking to High makes it very usable for longer periods.
But I find the beam is not very useful indoors. As a general purpose EDC light it has heavy compromises. But these lights are small enough to leave in a coat pocket all the time, even if you carry another light.
The W1 I don’t have in this size torch. I have one in a Convoy C8 and I find the beam is not very useful for anything. It does throw more than the W2 KR1. But the beam is a lot smaller and lights up too small an area for any practical use. The spill beam is also much duller. Meaning it also isn’t any good up close or indoors. The flip side is, the W1 only needs 5amps max to perform. Which means much less heat, sag and dimming. And better runtimes. I need to try a W1 in a smaller host (maybe a Convoy M1 or M2) to see how it is. The smaller reflector should make the beam more useful. But I kind of think the W2 would still be a better choice all round unless you are just wanting the headline Lux figure on a light meter.
The SBT90.2 on the other hand. It is much more usable. Just as good as an XP-L HI or XM-L2 indoors or for general use. But pump the lumens up and it can still reach far down range (much further than an XP-L HI). Just not quite as far as the W2 in my examples or testing. I think the difference is. Most of the beam distance comes from the very high lumen output rather than a small high intensity LED. This means it always lights up a much bigger area. I don’t think any other emitter for a given reflector size will put as much light down range at such distance.
Ultimately I think the SBT90.2 needs user reservation to not abuse the High or Turbo modes due to heat and the driver dimming the output. 50-80% output is however very good and probably offers more lumens & throw combo with a big hotpot than any other setup.
Sounds pretty legit! How is the tint lottery on Hank’s SBT90.2 bin? The SBT90.2 I have in my L7 is kinda green at lower levels and I probably wouldn’t want it in an edc.