FC GT40 3000k vs. XHP70.3 HI 3000k. Which should I pick???

I wonder if CRI is that important in a 3000k light… One of my prettiest tint I got is an old C8 with the XML-2 3000k. I may be talking BS, but I don’t feel like it matters that much in a warm LED. But a yellow beam is not what I’m looking for.

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You would be surprised how well you can differentiate colors and that your brain will still interpret white as white under 2000K 95CRI light with a rosy tint :smiley:

When I’ve moved from 70CRI, to 90CRI/R9050, and then 95CRI/R9080 lights for urbex photography there is a noticeable improvement in the photos at the same location.

Uhh that’s very interesting! Do you have some recommendations for me in this category? I’ve seen a few 1800/2000k LEDs like the GT40. And I’d like to own one someday.

What lights do you use for photography? Something like a mule? Without optics?

I’d go with the GT FC40.

Better tint and available in higher CRI in general.

For 2000K I highly recommend the (super) high CRI Nichia E21A. It has a slightly negative DUV = rosy/magenta tint. The rosiness makes the the CCT appear higher (colder) than it actually is, and makes whites look whiter. So the light this leds produce for me looks more "golden" than the yellow/orange you would expect at 2000K.

A somewhat more practical(?) substitute for the 2000K E21A would be a shaved 2700K Nichia 519A. However I like the E21A more. When ordering a flashlight with E21A's from Emisar I'd ask for the 7.5A driver.

The 1800K GTFC-40 is reported to have a noticeable positive DUV, so it'll look very yellowish.

R9080 is a must for urbex photography since there is a lot of rust etc. in such places.

I use a ~ 3700K Nichia 219B Mf01 Mini for long exposure light painting urbex photography. After fiddling with the white balance I'm quit happy with the results. However the pink tint is sometimes a bit too visible, but it's easy to correct while editing RAW files.

My friends use even reflector based lights for light painting with good results, but I think a narrow (frosted) TIR is easier to work with.

I'm currently searching for a new light to do this, so I'm very curious what @Stephenk recommends. Maybe something with 519A 5700K? I'm a tad afraid it will be too rosy and are thinking about a 5000K + 5700K mix. I'm thinking about a 5000K + 5700K mix or 3500K + 4500K Convoy S21D or Emisar D4S with the boost driver. The Convoy M21B with the 5500K GTFC-40 might be an option as well.

Woah!! Those are some stunning shots!! Really impressive. But those were shot with a reflector based light? And 1800k???

I usually use Convoy S2+ (or S21E) either with moving illumination or static illumination with diffusers.

I should start a new hobby. Photography. But my wallet wont allow it. :slight_smile:

All shot with the Atrolux MF01 mini. Clean, somewhat narrow-ish TIR.

Yeah, photography is quite expensive nowadays, but you can have great results and save a lot of money by buying second hand semi-pro apsc DSLR’s and second hand lenses.

That’s really cool! I’ll definitely be looking into a nice setup in the future. Thanks!

Any follow-up on this? I’ve been thinking about either an M26C or an M21C with one of these emitters at 3000K.

I’m curious as to how different they would be, mostly lighting up a field at night, watching animals, that kind of thing. Lots of light is good but I do appreciate a prettier light with better color rendering. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Yes! I bought both emitters. I have a M21B with the gt40 3000k and a TS22 which I swapped a XHP70.3 HI 3000k R70.

To my eyes the XHP70.3 HI has a much better tint! Although low cri, to the naked eye it is much rosier.
I always thought the GT40 to be a bit greenish. Don’t like it at all.

These 70.3 HI are fantastic LEDs. Efficient, low heat, high output. I can’t recommend it enough. Bought one in every tint available.

Can’t say the same with the Gt40. I have both 5000k and 3000k versions. Don’t really like either lol.

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Thanks. Sorry to take a while getting back. Since the forum changed, I have difficulty navigating it.

What is the difference between XHP70.3 HI R70 and R9050?

Hi there, thanks for sticking with it. Any specific issues? Also please take a look at this if you haven’t yet:

Yeah, they’re my favorite LED right now. :+1:

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R70 has a CRI value of 70.
R9050 has a CRI value of 90.
CRI stands for Color Rendering Index.
The higher the CRI value, the more accurate the color, in theory.
(Some people have reported that the XHP70.3 HI R9050 has an unpleasant green tint.)
Also, generally speaking, LEDs of lower CRI values emit more lumens, throw further, and produce less heat.
So, you have to choose from [more accurate color], or [more lumens & throw and less heat.] :+1:
In other words, you can be a CRI baby, or a lumen wh0re. :stuck_out_tongue:
(I should point out that people that prefer high CRI LEDs are not really called CRI babies. I was just making a joke. :grin:)

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Thanks. I prefer good CRI to big lumens but at the end of the day, it’s more about a pretty light that looks nice to my eyes and puts out a reasonable amount of light.

I saw comments about the green tint basically canceling out the goodness of higher CRI. I think someone recommended an anti-green filter.

I like the classic interface, like what used to be here and is currently on Blade Forums. I’m a desktop surfer and the new interface is not as clear or intuitive. It also scrolls strangely for me.

I’m glad this place is still here. I just don’t check in very often now.