So, you received pcb 1 week ago. How is it?
Peoples, I find that now Sofirn also have:
- Anduril 2.0 BLF LT1,
- LT1S USB C 21700,
- BLF LT1-Mini Torch Anduril 2.0
So, already 4 types of LT1 and LT1S here and here
Because I have no any flashlight, I need one. But may be someone know, in Sofirn Anduril 2.0 BLF LT1 is the same pcb with BLF LT1?
LT1 2.0 has the same LED PCB as far as I know. It’s just the regular LT1 with an updated driver and Anduril 2.
LT1M is a much smaller one with different design.
LT1S comes without Anduril and is completely different as well: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
thanks! and may be you know in LT1S the red leds are 660nm or 630nm? Sofirn LT1S review
seems like I can upgrade white 1919 leds to SunLike SOL 2835
Good to see you back on here.
Visually they’re more orange than my 660nm and the similar as my 620nm lights.
660nm is better I think, but it is ordinary 3030 or 3535 leds. I can change it too
So, you received it. Is it works good?
I received two boards from Lampman, one with 2700kSunlike/660nmred combi, and one with 5600KSunlike/bare pads on the second channel (not sure yet which leds I will solder there). I still have to find a way to get him the money because he has no paypal now.
But in the meantime I checked the 2700KSunlike/660nm board out in my LT1. Here are the two extreme tints, when tint-ramping I get the intermediate tints. The pure 660nm looks much much deeper red than the picture shows, photo camera’s are bad in reproducing deep reds.
As expected, the 2700K tint was very high CRI, just a bit lower than 2700K and just a bit under the BBL. What happens if you ramp-in the 660nm’s is that of course the CCT goes down but also immediately the tint nose-dives under the BBL to rose without the yellow/orange that happens if the BBL was followed. Abandoning the BBL so much will also lead to loss of CRI of course. I have not measured output (yet) but the amount of 2700K light is plenty and the amount of 660nm is pretty intense, which is impressive given that the human eye is fairly insensitive to this wavelength.
I think the tint-traject that this lantern follows is much fun, and time will tell how useful it is. For the other board’s empty channel I will try to find high CRI leds in the 2300K range, maybe even Rngwn’s 5mm straw-leds because why not 
Here are a range of the tints from the 2700kSunlike/660nm LT1, the first and last are the begin and end of the tint-ramp, for the last two tints towards pure 660nm my spectrometer refuses to give CCT/colour information, too far away from the BBL:
many thanks for good review! for spectrums too. I am still waiting LT1 flashlight and 18650 cells, it will be soon. As I expected, mixing with 660nm seems really nice and pretty =) And yes, it is beautiful deep red color.
Also I have another version of 2835 leds with bigger crystals
не путай мягкое с тёплым. и не ври. нет нигде рекламы СССР. ОТК это ОТК, а ты занимаешься демагогией. В итоге это мои платы, что хочу, то и маркирую. Разрабатывай свои и рисуй там что хочешь, хоть 6ти цветную радугу
Just an FYI….
Google translation:
do not confuse soft with warm. and don’t lie. there is no advertising of the USSR anywhere. OTK is OTK, and you are engaged in demagogy. As a result, these are my boards, I mark what I want. Develop your own and draw whatever you want there, at least a 6-color rainbow
OTK?
???
Отдел Технического Контроля
Otdyel Tekhnicheskovo Kontrolya
Department of Technical Control
yes, this mark
when I will draw the next board, I will definitely draw a double pentagram going beyond the circle there
If you can get them in your location, Luxeon 2835N series are available in both 1800K and 2200K at 90 CRI. I posted some more info here:
Thanks for the test results. This looks fun, but still practical.
Thanks for the tip! Mouser still has the 20dollar shipping so I hesitate.
I also think of the Luminus Cube, I have them in house in 1800K/80CRI and in 2700K/95CRI, a mix of those should give a pretty result also, and I do not have to buy leds.
I went for the Cube! I had them in house, in 2700K 95CRI, and in 1800K 90 CRI. On the warm channel I used a 50/50 mix of those. The cool channel already had 5600K Sunlike leds soldered by Lampman.
What was tricky is that in the above video I did not alternate between the channels but went cool>cool+warm>cool>cool+warm etc. So the cool channel did not light when combined with warm, apparently the voltage of the Cube leds is much lower than the Sunlike leds. That should only be a problem if the LT1 has at any moment both channels on at the same time, but I reckon that Toykeeper made the tint-mixing so that the channels always alternate and are thus not in each others way.
(I used a resistor in the warm channel to light both channels to make this photo)
The resulting tints:
Cool only:
Warm only:
Somewhere halfway the tint-mix:
I love the improved tint range compared to the stock LT1 (stock went from about 4500K to 2600K) and the improved CRI and duv does not hurt either. Now I need an extra LT1 for that 2700K/660nm Lampman board that I just swapped out for this one.
Nice spectrums! :face_with_monocle:
Good work with the warm Cubes. I was under the impression they didn’t have as high of CRI as you measured.
Of course, the Sunlike emitters are just about perfect. Very impressive.