The posts i see are about someone’s personal issues with Anduril 2 rather than issues within the firmware.
Anduril 1 had muggle mode, Anduril 2 is quite different and is built around 2 UIs, Simple UI and Advanced UI. Simple UI is a properly performing UI with more functions than muggle mode, possibly including those functions you accessed.
In Anduril 2, if you’re not at the top of the ramp 2C will take you there. Once you’re at the top of the ramp 2C will take you to turbo in Advanced UI, but there is no turbo in the Simple UI so 2C will not change the brightness level from the top of the ramp.
If you’ve just flashed the firmware it will have defaulted to Simple UI (intentionally) which would give you more functions than muggle mode and no turbo, which sounds similar to what you experienced.
Also, 6C is only relevant to Anduril 1, it does not switch between UIs in Anduril 2. (That’s 10H for Simple -> Advanced, and 10C for Advanced -> Simple.)
Is it possible there’s a misunderstanding with how the new firmware functions rather than a fault with the firmware itself?
1. not all anduril 2 lights default to Simple, some default to Advanced
the way to tell which one youre in, is to do 3C from off… if the voltage reads out once and turns off, that is Simple Mode. If instead the voltage blinks repeat until switched off, that is Advanced
2. In some Anduril 2 lights, simple mode ceiling is set to 150/150… iow, the same as if it was on Turbo
3. In advanced, from On, 2C gives ceiling, another 2C will NOT go to Turbo, it drops back to the previous output… Unless you get into the manual and configure the Turbo Style… the default way to get to Turbo from On is to Ramp up to ceiling first, and then do 2C to reach Turbo
otoh, from Off, 2C does give Turbo, unless it is disabled, in which case it gives ceiling.
Was a Long night but you both nailed the “problem”. I am new to Anduril let alone Andruil 2. I even went as far as rewiring my clip, reloading USBASP drivers to make sure they were correct before I realised the files were A2. But in my defense the files were Not taken from the A2 directory. :person_facepalming:
Anyway, lessons learned. The L6, C8F triple and 2 original Q8 are now on Andruil 2.
2S batts. And that was with the ranpingIOS. Haven’t tested it again with Anduril2. Also have not played with the voltage or thermal cal on the L6 since A2 flash.
Thanks for the turbo in simple tip, I would still want it at 2C. Would it still go to turbo at 2C if I set it at the top of the ramp too?
There is no Turbo in Simple, only Ceiling… and 2C gets you there… so, if the ceiling is set to 150/150, 2C gets you the ceiling of 150/150=Turbo
> Would it still go to turbo at 2C if I set it at the top of the ramp too?
top of ramp = turbo
simple goes to top of ramp w 2C… there is no separate Turbo in Simple
so if you set simple ceiling to 100/150, then thats all you get from 2C in Simple…
otoh advanced has an independent Turbo… available in addition to whatever ceiling is… but Turbo still equals top of ramp, IF ceiling is set to 150/150, then Turbo will look exactly the same
there are now 4 turbo styles… look in the manual for the section that says:
“Item 4: Configure Advanced UI’s turbo style”
Simple is set that way by default but you can turn turbo on. As you rightly point out it makes no difference if ceiling is set to the default of 150.
This is from TK’s manual( relating to 10H from off in Advanced UI):
“For the Simple UI mode, there are four menu options. The first three
are the same as stepped ramping mode.
1. Floor. (default = 20/150)
2. Ceiling. (default = 120/150)
3. Number of steps. (default = 5)
4. Turbo style. (default = 0, no turbo)”
So if you hold the 10H until the fourth flash and then click during the fuzz you turn turbo on.
As jon_slider explains, if the top of ramp (ceiling) is set to level 150/150, which is turbo, then 2C would take you to turbo from levels 1-149. But when you’re at the top of the ramp at 150 you’re already where 2C would take you.
If you set the ceiling lower than turbo, say to level 120/150, then 2C would take you to 150 from all levels.
(Not sure if that makes sense, feel like i’m mixing terminology a bit.)
Oooh, thanks that one helps a lot. Didn’t realize it goes back from top for ceiling set. Also then assuming setting bottom would count UP as in 1 to 50 for example?
Smooth moon to turbo is what I would like in the ramping. Well for the L6 I might want higher than 1 to start. I am from the RampingIOS and I am used to that layout, for my own lights anyway. 1H moon and the 2C Turbo are kinda natural to me. Move through ramp easier, faster.
Have the PDF of the UI saved, also in phone. Not sure I want to read the entire written file, would just confuse me more with too much info at once. Just look up the bits as needed.
Boruit D10 modded with 45° TIR and swapped to 219b sw45k
New build - 219b sw45k in a “DDH-D2G” host (DongDongHai) from China. Nothing fancy but I really like the host. Beefy as hell and looks a bit like kiriba-ru’s C8TT head. It was supposed to be an SFT40 in there but the one I ordered was DOA and I only ordered one unit . 219b was all I had left so I guess I’m rocking a CRI thrower now.
I am Not going to say I like your DongDongHai… I just will Not.
I had to check out the DongDongHai. They have some nice lights that I do not think I can get here in USA. I need to check the Flashlight Host and Uncommon Budget Flashlights thread.
Hope you can revive the SfT40. Reverse polarity? try to re-melt it? I have even found one emitter mounted 90* out.
I saw it in Weerapat Kiatdumrong channel first. Due to the head size it’s a bit front-heavy, but other than that it is a wonderful host. I like browsing that thread too
I tried all I could think of. Based on photos I’ve seen on the internet it may be seller flowed the LED the wrong orientation. when I received it I tested with DMM diode test and it didn’t light up. I reflowed to the other orientation and still no light. I don’t know what the problem is. The seller already apologized and issued refund.
This morning I realized the emitter was missing from my parts box. I was looking for it to test some more. I think I must have dropped it when I was packing up my soldering area the other day :person_facepalming: . I can’t seem to find it now lol.
Always hated this light. Mainly because I opted for the blowout deal and had to get CW emitter. Never could get the darn thing apart for a swap. Well, I finally went for broke and busted out the torch, not the flashlight kind. It has a couple battle scars and some discoloration on the bezel but I WON this time. I should have taken a pic of the driver because I think it might be the first driver to see daylight in one of these.
I was able to stack an R100 resistor on top for 4.2A on turbo now. It does have a DTP copper pad and I reused it. Now has Nichia 219BT D220 4000K 90+cri. Good glovebox light with the USB charging and window breaking small point on side of the tail.
Low is pretty moon like
Ring Ring… Sorry, NOT interested
OK, that’s better
And for Jon…
OOH stole this pic from MascarantumB
Very bottom on the right is the R010 resistor I stacked the R100 on top of.
Heat deformed the original spacer, spot looked oval. Second ring was the clear type and too tall into the reflector hole. Made rings. I didn’t think a shorter one would work, tighten down enough… ut third try was the shorter, in white.
Made another typical triple S2+. I saw this lime green host on Kaidomain and couldn’t resist.
I used dedomed 4000K 519As (= 3000K) and a 10511 Carclo lens. The tint is incredible - we sure are spoiled with these LEDs! It always feels strange to carefully reflow the LEDs and then once they’re cooled, pull the (damn) domes off.
With the 10511s that I recently got, the position on the MCPCB affects how the hotspot is centered. Initially it was noticeable off center, but when I rotated it clockwise it was much better. The next rotation wasn’t quite as good.
The switch shelf on the host was a little higher than normal which made the silicone switch feel a little squishy. So I sliced off the top of another Omten switch and super glued it to the switch. Problem solved. And of course I had to go with a green lighted switch to match the host which draws 0.05mA (8 years).
Here are all my colored KD S2+ flashlights. The brown on the left is a baked black host.
and I only ordered one unit 
They have some nice lights that I do not think I can get here in USA. I need to check the Flashlight Host and Uncommon Budget Flashlights thread.
