Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

[TIFisher]

I have been on vacation with my SP10 PRO as my sole torch for the last week. I’m running a standard eneloop straight from the package. The performance has been beyond my expectations. I have run the light as a ceiling bouncer, shuffle to the loo illuminator, and rigging out pre-dawn fishing gear. I have well over 3 hours on the cell with no discernable loss of output. What a great combo.

Kudos to jon_slider for pointing out all the good things low and slow with this light.

[jon_slider]

@TIFisher

I have been on vacation with my SP10 PRO

Yay!

[kokosnh]

little update, on my SP10 pro magnetic tail drama.
Contacted the ali store, they refused to send a good one for free
(had to pay 0.8$ for shipping with tracking, well i can understand that, and it was comparable, to getting the old one refunded, and buying new one, so I accepted it)

after 3 weeks I got it, and well this one surely won't work.

Yes that's the 18650 one, for SC31 pro and so on, not the 14500 for SP10 pro.

Ps. I do have SC31 pro, but I have black one, and I already bought a magnetic tail for it, so this one is useless for me, at this time.

[smurcod]

I ordered the SP10 Pro and magnetic tail cap direct from their Chinese store (not AliExpress.) The correct one arrived luckily. I’ve had similar experiences on AliExpress with other sellers- they refuse to replace faulty/ incorrect goods and want you to pay postage when it’s their fault. I just don’t buy anything else off them ever again.

[editor]

@roostre

The magnet in the Lumintop “Tool AA 2.0” optional twist tail cap is mounted under a removable tail cap battery spring and replacing the magnet with a spacer is easy (I used a button from an old shirt for the spacer).

The “removable spring design” while not ideal for high current lights would most likely function adequately in the proposed AA/14500 compatible “Sofirn SP10S BLF edition with Andúril”. I do not have access to a Sofirn SP10S and do not know how the tail cap is currently constructed.

Is the Lumintop Tool AA tailcap mechanically compatible with the Sofirn SP10 Pro? Can I use a Lumintop magnetic tailcap on the SP10 Pro?

[pfuender]

No, the SP10 is slightly wider than the Tool-AA.

[editor]

@pfuender

No, the SP10 is slightly wider than the Tool-AA.

Thank you very much for the quick and accurate answer. Have a very good day.

[Sari33]

Does blink during ramp still present or was removed on this batch?

[jon_slider]

@Sari33

Does blink during ramp still present or was removed on this batch?

yes, no

but if you are set up for reflashing, there is a Hex from gchart without the blink

[Sari33]

@jon_slider

@Sari33

Does blink during ramp still present or was removed on this batch?

yes, no

but if you are set up for reflashing, there is a Hex from gchart without the blink

Don’t have right hardware now and I lack of experience, risk to brick driver.
I wonder why Sofirn doesn’t correct by flash right FW .
Blink is present even in HS10 headlamp with propietary ramp UI

[jon_slider]

@Sari33

I wonder why Sofirn doesn’t correct by flash right FW

fwiw, the blink in the ramp is part of the Normal Anduril UI installation

It would not make sense for Sofirn to reflash all the lights they already made, to put on the custom firmware you would like

If you want the NoBlink custom firmware, you could pay someone in Europe to install it for you, maybe ask the_freeman, SammysHP, Unheard…

[jasontheguitarist]

Gchart, do you still have flashing kits for sale? I sent a PM but I’m not sure if you prefer posting here instead.

[Hugh_Johnson]

Is the only emitter option still 5000k? Hoping for 4000.

[Sari33]

@Hugh Johnson

Is the only emitter option still 5000k? Hoping for 4000.

Hoping for Nichia 519A

[gravelmonkey]

Ordered one after reading the good reviews. I will probably swap in something in the region of 4000K.

Don’t have any lights with 519a in yet, so maybe this will have to be the emitter of choice for the swap.

[jon_slider]

@gravelmonkey

Don’t have any lights with 519a in yet

Congratulations!

the SP10 Pro LED swap to 519a is simple because it fits on the stock mcpcb

Here are some before and after pics with 519a 4500K, both domed and dedomed:

[Album] Sofirn SP10 PRO LED swap

[kokosnh]

@kokosnh

little update, on my SP10 pro magnetic tail drama.
Contacted the ali store, they refused to send a good one for free
(had to pay 0.8$ for shipping with tracking, well i can understand that, and it was comparable, to getting the old one refunded, and buying new one, so I accepted it)

after 3 weeks I got it, and well this one surely won't work.

Yes that's the 18650 one, for SC31 pro and so on, not the 14500 for SP10 pro.

Ps. I do have SC31 pro, but I have black one, and I already bought a magnetic tail for it, so this one is useless for me, at this time.

little update, on my SP10 pro magnetic tail drama.

They refused to send another, and demanded I buy something and they will just add it to the box. So I bought LT1 and they did add it but...
Well they did send a working one this time, but starting to think they are doing it on purpose.

And I know what's wrong with the first one.
The outer size is really close, even a tiny bit shorter for the green one
13.857-13.861mm for green
13.861-13.866mm for black




The problem is with the depth of the contact surface in the tail.
8.90-9.05mm for green
8.16-8.25mm for black

and that's why the first one is not working.

https://youtube.com/shorts/RFq4jfAjtAc

[jon_slider]

@kokosnh

The problem is with the depth of the contact surface in the tail.

what a tragic comedy of errors

hopefully you can find a way for the green tailcap to make contact with the end of the body tube,

some options:

use parts from the black tailcap

or
add something that works as a contact ring between tailcap and end of body tube…
for example,
some people use a copper washer, some use a bent piece of paperclip wire… does not really matter what you use, it just needs to make contact between the tailcap and the end of the body tube

or, the most destructive and non reversible option:
remove some of the anodising from the body and tailcap threads, so they become part of the electrical path

suggestion, in future, dont waste time trying to negotiate with customer service… use Paypal Dispute for item not as described, and just get a refund. Then buy again.

[SammysHP]

Can’t you just sand off the open side of the tailcap a bit?

[kokosnh]

@jon_slider

use parts from the black tailcap or add something that works as a contact ring between tailcap and end of body tube… for example, some people use a copper washer, some use a bent piece of paperclip wire… does not really matter what you use, it just needs to make contact between the tailcap and the end of the body tube or, the most destructive and non reversible option: remove some of the anodising from the body and tailcap threads, so they become part of the electrical path suggestion,

It's not a rechargeable flashlight, so I don't want to add something that can fall, or change position when changing the battery.
Removing the anodization, would result in not being able to physically lock out it (and it does have a protruding side button, so I don't want to do it if I can avoid it )

@SammysHP

Can’t you just sand off the open side of the tailcap a bit?

That may create a fault, that I can cut my self, or scratch the threads. I don't want to sand aluminum, If I can avoid it (the aluminum dust), and it would remove the anodization.

I did pay 3.5$ and again 0.9$ for the second one delivery, like I want a good product. I don't have to be creative in fixing it, in the most safe form me way.